RB30-POWER

Should also mention, you can either remove the factory O2 sensor while tuning with the wideband unit/meter, then replace the sensor after the tuning with the standard sensor for closed loop fuel operation. Or If you wanted to run the wideband all the time, you would be best to get another bung welded into your engine pipe with a 18x1.5 thread and you could run the wideband all the time.

Most if not all Wide Band O2 are 0-5V output. As far as i know the PowerFc is only compatible with the standard narrow band output type sensor 0-1V. So it wouldn't work.

The R31 radiator is to high/tall by about an inch for the R32. Even if you modify the lower mounts, you can't get it low enough. Simple as that. There is a thread over on PF about it.

Raw fuel is very bad for the CAT, it will melt and clog the cat in no time at all and you will have a restriction and loss of power. The cat holds alot of temperature and when raw fuel hits it, it ignites and melts it. All this will happen if you have an atmo bov, the AFM measures the air going through the BOV, thinking its going into the engine when it isn't, puts in fuel, and naturally overfuels and goes straight into the exhaust. People don't think of this though, if they have some noise from a atmo bov for wankfactor thats all that seems to matter.

What are these DynoLog chasis dyno like compared to Dyno Dynamics? Im not suggesting anything, just questioning?

Is the bigger pump being wired via the FPCM or directly to a battery voltage source. Only other thing i could possibly think of.

Have you actually measured the pressure before and after the fitting of the pump though? If you have aftermarket managment and its tuned for slightly higher pressure it won't matter, but increase pressure on the stock ecu car and it will shoot more fuel through the injectors.

Run a bablefish over that site. Seems like a legit Holden site. http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr

You can't and don't want to use them in series. (Especially not for your problem anyway) The regulator goes after the fuel rail/injectors. What it does is bleed any excess fuel to keep the pressure at the rail at the factory setting. 2.7bar under vacuum at idle. (Engine Vacuum will pull the spring/diaphram up and allow more fuel to bypass, when 0 vacuum or boost pressure is applied it will push the spring blocking of the passage a bit and therfore raising pressure) Most people say that the regulator will be fine even with big pumps, but im not entirely sure that is correct. If the fuel pump is pumping a shitload of fuel and the regulator can't release enough of the fuel to drop pressure the pressure will rise. With a massive pump and stock fuel lines i beleive its possible for this to happen.

Cheers for the vid steve. Awesome figure as i said before. It would be interesting to see what it could real off in rwd mode.

It would be a good 1mm, maybe a bit over? Never actually measured approx. What was your estimate Stocky?

What turbochargers does this weapon run? 2.6 still or stroker?

Twin Cam RB30 with high compression ratio and lumpy cams. Its the only way you are ever going to see any sort of figures from an NA RB engine.

I definately wouldnt use a synthetic during run in. Use either a running-in oil or alot of people use standard Castrol GTX (the cheap one) with great results. Can't offer any more advice sorry, maybe SK would have some idea's?

I really don't think there should be any difference, between the inbuilt ignitor coils or the external ignitor pack configuration. Just use whichever coils are in best condition, low km's with no cracks in them (Common problem from the heat buildup under the coil covers in skylines) The only advantage to the external ignitor pack is you could change it/swap it out for a different ignition booster more easily without changing coils as well. But changing coils is not really that time consuming. The spark should be the same with either setup you asked about unless the coils are damaged.

The only thing i can think of is a camshaft is out. You said you have tried 3 timing lights already so it cant be that. Every RB i play with, you can change the static timing anywhere from 10deg to 30deg and no real change in noise/note. When you add more timing it raises the idle a little (naturally) but other than that no real difference. If you can get it to run like shit, by retarding the timing to 15deg btdc, something is wrong. If it run like shit at 5deg btdc i would understand, but anywhere from 10deg btdc and up it should be very minimal the effect it has on a car just idling. If your got high ron jap fuel and it doesn't ping maybe just leave it advanced. If your keen to tinker, check the cam gears in relation to not only each other but in relation to the crank timing gear/TDC.

Is autosalon pump fuel only or can race gas can be used?

These don't look to bad at all. Im thinking of getting one shortly just to see what they are like. http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm Unless its accurate, I don't really see how you can keep an eye on anything, I mean a cheap narrow band will show if its gone way lean, or way rich, but chances are what really will happen is the AFR may drop from say 12.0:1 to 13.5:1. And this could be a big concern on a forced induction car. I just don't trust a narrow band to show me that small change instantly. At the end of the day, if your car is tuned properly, and you don't tinker with it just keep an ear out for detonation. If you want real accuracy get a wideband. If you want something a little better then the standard narrow band get the Haltuner and included O2 sensor. discopotato03, said he used one with great sucess, get one and give it a go. He has had real experience with it. Im just going of the specs and what i have read from users of the tool on other forums. Let us know how it performs. I hope we can keep adding to this discussion. Cheers!

Ok, they do appear to loop a little. Need to pull the sand out i guess and see how much volume is in those runners compared to the others. It must be close though. Cheers for the pics, always nice to clear stuff up. 100 pages can't be to far away now

I've only ever quick looked at them, but im going to say, they are shorter, they don't make the length up in anyway that i could tell, i.e by running them out to the side or sticking further down and back up to the head inlet. Im going to say this is the dodgiest piece of Nissan engineering to date, like they made the motor then realised whoops, dont fit in the car, bah, lets just shortern them.... Who has a plenum to prove either way? Cubes?

The R33 25de/det plenum won't go on RB20 manifold though. The R33 don't have the shorter runners on 5 & 6. If your 25de plenum fits onto the 20 runners, i think that confirms that the r32 rb25de does have the shorter runners like the 20det. The R33 are not shorter on 5 & 6.

Well i looked at these the other day briefly. As soon as i seen the price, something like $300 odd, i knew it had to be narrow band based. And further research on the net basically confirmed this by owners of this tool. Lastly i found this on the ECU manual from Haltech relating to their haltech haltuner Since when did widebands come with a 0-1V output. Sure they thing can read a 0-5V wideband, but you have to get Haltech to reprogram the bloody thing. Basically you wouldn't want to use it for any sort of forced induction tuning, unless you know it is setup for wideband sensors. Then you have the heater elements inside widebands that have to be accurately controlled for accurate readings. I somehow think the $300 Haltuner lacks some of this logic.

On a side note. Does the RB25DE from the R32 models have the shorter runners on 5 & 6? They would have too, wouldn't they to clear the master like the RB20DET does? Just want to ask for my own interest sake.

Haltuner uses a narrow band O2 sensor. So that makes it effectively usless for anything other than seeing when the ecu is in closed loop operation.

Noble, Have you sent the boost solonoid yet? Sent you a PM but no response?