benro2

Thanks very much for the detailed replies, guys. Will definitely get around to those tests ASAP... they sound like likely candidates too. Regarding the injector shutoff, I suspect this is just an error somewhere in the calcs as the O2 sensor is reading exactly 0.00V. I've looked at other cars' trip computers and sometimes they will do the same thing - read 1 or 1.5L/100km when they should be reading 0. Yes, it's definifely doing what you say. However, I've always wondered about whether it's reading correctly? The reason why I ask is because ever since I've had the car, no matter how I drive it, the fuel consumption is the same! I've been calculating my consumption in L/100km for 4.5 years and it is *always* about 12.7L/100km, as I tend to do the same sort of driving. I've driven like a total granny for a whole week and it turns out the same. Sometimes I'll have a bit of WOT in there and it's still the same. In other cars, even driving slightly differently gives different overall averages, sometimes by a few L/100km. Could this be the O2 sensor or something else? The car is an auto, so I can't feel it cut in that easily. However, looking at the O2 sensor and injector readouts, under about 1500rpm I can see them increase. It's unusual that under say 50km/h on overrun, I don't think the injectors have cut out! It's obvious it's just the way the transmission/ECU is programmed, as they probably weren't thinking so much about fuel consumption as car manufacturers are today. LOL, yes, I'm still driving like a granny while the car is cold. However, in my other thread I have detailed what happens. This is what I said: A few months ago (meaning on both stock coilpacks and the Splitfires) my car started suddenly losing power when it is cold. I seriously have to go into 1-2 psi boost to get any useful acceleration under 60km/h! Even on the flat at a constant 50km/h, the boost gauge needle is almost on 0! It is very sudden, almost like the A/C compressor has turned on, but saps about 3x as much power (it's not the A/C comp, I've checked), pretty much instant loss of power, like a switch has been flicked somewhere! I also swear I can hear a "click" when I lose power too, but that may just be my imagination - On the water temp gauge, it happens only from just above cold to about 2/3rds normal operating temp, after which point it's fine. - Straight after I start the car, it will hesitate for a second or two the first time I give it gas, then suddenly take off like it should. - Occasionally, when I start the car, the revs will drop really low (like 400-500rpm) for about 5 secs unless I give it gas for a couple of seconds, which seems to get the revs back to normal. The car is basically stock except for a K&N panel filter. I have previously messed around with the boost solenoid so now I'm only getting wastegate spring pressure (~5 psi on a cool day, ~3 psi on a hot day!), however I am going to put in a Jaycar IEBC and DFA soon so I'm not fussed about getting it back to normal until all these problems are fixed. It's probably best I'm running on low boost while I have potential engine problems anyway!

Yep, it sounds like a problem similar to mine. I think it's the "mixer door" which controls how much hot air gets pumped into the car. I haven't actually fixed my problem yet, but there are some threads on this forum about it. Have a listen down underneath the steering wheel (may be different in a 32 though) and you may hear a kind of motor going back and forth quickly. If you get down into the footwell and look upwards you can actually see it moving back and forth. You should be able to go onto complete cold by selecting the coldest temp, or complete hot by selecting the hottest temp. You should hear the mixer door stop moving at this point. One thing to check is the temp sensor located just to the left of the steering wheel. Pull off the dash and make sure it's connected properly. My sensor was fine and I even had a guy look at the mixer door but even though he got it to work at some stage, it's gone back to its old tricks. A real pain in winter time when it tries to mix a bit of heat in, but in summer it's on full cold anyway so it doesn't make a difference

This thread was getting a bit too long and doesn't really belong in Forced Induction Performance anymore anyway, so I've started a new one here.

I did have a thread going overe here but it seems no one can be bothered looking all the way to the end, so I've started a new thread here and reposted my last questions If you can answer anything, it may pay to just glance over my problems in the linked thread for details. A general rundown of my problems are: - Car is grossly underpowered when it's cold. - Rocks lightly at idle, in neutral, once warmed up. - "Surges" on an off the power every couple of seconds under load (usually only top gear going up a hill when ambient temp is >30C), kind of like R&R. I've bought one of these from ebay (scroll down to view). Great little unit, the guy who sells them was really helpful and shipping was extremely quick - received it the next day! Anyway, these are the readouts I'm getting, bearing in mind I've only been driving with it for 20 mins so I may have remembered them wrong... These are the readouts at a constant 110km/h: - kph = 110km/h - rpm = ~2800rpm but is jumping around by 100-200rpm - battery voltage is ~13.5V when running - fuel consumption is 9-10L/100km on the flat, also jumps around a bit - INJ (injectory duty cycle) is about 6-8% on the flat (I think! I set the injector size to 370cc) - ignition timing is ~ 30-40 deg B on the flat, probably a fairly constant 35 - AAC (is this the same as the Auxiliary Air Control valve?) reads about 50-60 on the flat - O2 is jumping around from 0.15V - 0.85V all the time under constant load on the flat. This doesn't seem right to me. When the ECU shuts off the injectors it reads 0.00V. - Water temp is ~80-85C - AFM is ~2.500V on the flat (I think) - TPS is 8-10% on the flat - I had to change this from a voltage to %age readout. I think the voltage range was ~0.3V - 4.3V - sounds about right? A few notes/thoughts: 1. The fuel consumption seems a bit high, although the average it calculates seems to be about right compared with what I work out myself, so I think it is accurate, meaning my car's actual fuel consumption is bad. I've heard a bad O2 sensor will do this, however people with good O2 sensors report about the same fuel economy as me (400-450km out of 50-55L). However I drive the car like a granny most of the time and it just won't go any lower than this. Can I improve this with a new O2 sensor? 2. The ignition timing is 0 deg B at idle with no electrical or A/C load. The A/C puts it to about 10 deg B. Very light throttle (1-3% maybe) makes it go to 40-50 and most normal driving (5-15%) makes it go to 30-35. Is this normal? I did my load test up Lapstone Hill and when it was surging, under a constant throttle of maybe 30-40% (still in top gear) the ignition timing was moving around a bit, maybe in a range of 5 or so. At other times it seems to be relatively constant. 3. AAC goes down to ~40 when the car is at idle. Seems to increase with throttle. What is this reading anyway? 4. The O2 sensor has me worried a bit. I would have thought a fairly constant readout at constant throttle would be expected but mine is jumping wildly all the time. Never reads over 1V (0.9 was the maximum probably) but interestingly, still reads 0.00V on injector shutoff on overrun. Could this be busted? 5. Is the AFM readout about right? I didn't look at this too much other than on the highway so I can't remember what it was at other times. 6. The rpm readout jumps around a bit, maybe by 150-200rpm @ 2800rpm, less at less rpm. Would this indicate a faulty crank angle sensor? 7. Just out of interest, on injector shutoff the fuel consumption readout is still ~1.5L/100km, yet the O2 sensor reads 0.00V. What gives??

Please close this thread, I found some tyres!

I know it's been a while, but I've bought one of these from ebay (scroll down to view). Great little unit, the guy who sells them was really helpful and shipping was extremely quick - received it the next day! Anyway, these are the readouts I'm getting, bearing in mind I've only been driving with it for 20 mins so I may have remembered them wrong... These are the readouts at a constant 110km/h: - kph = 110km/h - rpm = ~2800rpm but is jumping around by 100-200rpm - battery voltage is ~13.5V when running - fuel consumption is 9-10L/100km on the flat, also jumps around a bit - INJ (injectory duty cycle) is about 6-8% on the flat (I think! I set the injector size to 370cc) - ignition timing is ~ 30-40 deg B on the flat, probably a fairly constant 35 - AAC (is this the same as the Auxiliary Air Control valve?) reads about 50-60 on the flat - O2 is jumping around from 0.15V - 0.85V all the time under constant load on the flat. This doesn't seem right to me. When the ECU shuts off the injectors it reads 0.00V. - Water temp is ~80-85C - AFM is ~2.500V on the flat (I think) - TPS is 8-10% on the flat - I had to change this from a voltage to %age readout. I think the voltage range was ~0.3V - 4.3V - sounds about right? A few notes/thoughts: 1. The fuel consumption seems a bit high, although the average it calculates seems to be about right compared with what I work out myself, so I think it is accurate, meaning my car's actual fuel consumption is bad. I've heard a bad O2 sensor will do this, however people with good O2 sensors report about the same fuel economy as me (400-450km out of 50-55L). However I drive the car like a granny most of the time and it just won't go any lower than this. Can I improve this with a new O2 sensor? 2. The ignition timing is 0 deg B at idle with no electrical or A/C load. The A/C puts it to about 10 deg B. Very light throttle (1-3% maybe) makes it go to 40-50 and most normal driving (5-15%) makes it go to 30-35. Is this normal? I did my load test up Lapstone Hill and when it was surging, under a constant throttle of maybe 30-40% (still in top gear) the ignition timing was moving around a bit, maybe in a range of 5 or so. At other times it seems to be relatively constant. 3. AAC goes down to ~40 when the car is at idle. Seems to increase with throttle. What is this reading anyway? 4. The O2 sensor has me worried a bit. I would have thought a fairly constant readout at constant throttle would be expected but mine is jumping wildly all the time. Never reads over 1V (0.9 was the maximum probably) but interestingly, still reads 0.00V on injector shutoff on overrun. Could this be busted? 5. Is the AFM readout about right? I didn't look at this too much other than on the highway so I can't remember what it was at other times. 6. The rpm readout jumps around a bit, maybe by 150-200rpm @ 2800rpm, less at less rpm. Would this indicate a faulty crank angle sensor? 7. Just out of interest, on injector shutoff the fuel consumption readout is still ~1.5L/100km, yet the O2 sensor reads 0.00V. What gives?? Will get around to changing the oil and cleaning the AAC soon, but as you may imagine, I'm pretty busy around this time of the year

I was getting R&R ages ago when I was running 10 psi without the fuel adjuster to lean out the mixture. I noticed it would R&R at around 4000rpm and would come back into power again at about 5500rpm. It just felt like the car lost a heap of power and was spluttering a lot out of the exhaust. I think you could also see a pile of black smoke coming out. However if you have a few mods that is allowing more air than the ECU is expecting at those rpm (which sounds likely since you're only seeing it in a high gear/high load), then that would definitely be R&R. I don't think R&R is limited to high rpm, I think it can just happen whenever the ECU is running outside its safety parameters. AFAIK, you have to use some sort of AFR adjustment when you're running much over 8 psi?? As for whether it's R&R or misfiring... you should be able to tell the diff between the two fairly easily. Misfiring is sort of random and is more sudden than R&R. You'll feel little bursts of power (or really, pockets of reduced power) a few times every second, whereas R&R is more like you've just turned the boost waaaaay down while you're in a certain rev range. Once you get out of that range it'll just take off again. Also, misfiring would most likely happen all of the time, no matter what rpm, although having said that, when my coilpacks were on the way out it tended to be from 5500 rpm onwards, but I knew it was misfiring because of the way it was behaving at idle (random power cutouts). Hope this helps!

Hmm... interesting, thanks for the AAC link! Very well written writeup. Although looks like it's a fair bit of work! I'll try all the other (easier) suggestions to start with and will progressively do the longer ones to narrow down the problems I don't really have the symptoms that the guy mentions - idle hunting, stalling, etc. - but definitely worth a look if I can't trace the problem down beforehand. Just out of interest, I was driving a fair bit today in 40C heat and at idle, the car was as smooth as anything! I figure that it's to do with the increased temps thinning out the oil more than usual, which would allow oil into the hydraulic lifter(s) that were blocked before? As soon as the temps dropped to 30-35C, the rocking was back...

Yeah, unfortunately they're far from new, but that doesn't mean you can't having them running well! I've had mine for 4.5 years now and up until the 100k service it ran like a dream - bought it at 49k, and I have had those km's independently verified too, twice. Never had any problems with anything whatsoever before that, but since then I've had a few small electrical problems (one of the mirrors doesn't fold in, both washer pumps blew, a headlight blew, ABS light is on, etc.) and then I had my power steering system develop a leak and make tonnes of bad noises, fuel pump went, A/C climate control doesn't work properly (it's either pretty much full hot or full cold), and maybe a few other small things. Most of those have been fixed but they weren't cheap! However, I can cut it some slack because it *is* 13 years old... As for being sluggish when it's cold, yeah it is a bit, but not by much. I know this because up until the water temp gets off the "C", it feels like it should when it's cold - not very sluggish at all. I'm never going to drive it hard when it's cold anyway but I don't need to go anywhere near boost just to keep up with traffic! The 100k service wasn't all that involved. From what I recall (it was 18k ago), I think it was basically just the timing belt and spark plug change, plus your regular fluid checks and tyre rotation, etc. They did over tighten the timing belt so I took it back and it's from then that it's been acting up. So you can understand why I'd rather trace/fix it myself! What's this AAC valve you speak of?

I'm quite sure it's not misfiring - I'll explain I should also mention that I am incredibly anal about even the slightest change in the car so it's probably something that a lot of people wouldn't even notice! A while ago, before I had the Splitfires, it was definitely misfiring at idle. A little bit a first, maybe 1-2 misfires every 5-10 secs or so. It gradually got worse and worse, until the car almost wouldn't idle, but it was still random. I put in the Splitfires and it fixed the problem completely. Then, I think I had the 100K service done - something that could have put out the ignition timing, and they would have changed the plugs at that time too. It was at this point that I noticed this rocking. Now I should clarify, it's not fully "rocking" the car as bad as you think. I don't know if anyone could see it from the outside, but you can just feel it moving slightly. It's not like a huge lumpy V8 cam or anything, just a very slight rocking that is constant with engine revs, as if one cylinder is putting the engine out of balance - definitely not random like the misfiring was! At that time, I had the Splitfires in, and recently I found the plugs were 5 heat range and gapped to 1.1mm. At this point all I did was swap the coilpacks back to stock, but a different set (ie: not the stockers I had that were playing up beforehand). The car started misfiring at idle again, like it did when it first started the first time (ie: 1-2 misfires every 5-10 secs or so, usually when the A/C compressor turned on). So then, I pulled those out, put in 7 heat range and gapped to 0.8mm. Misfiring stopped. Still rocking. At that point I did an engine oil flush and changed to the 15W-50 oil. Still ticking (not as much though), still rocking. So I'm thinking that it's a possible combination of problems: - Ignition timing (also as someone suggested, could be the cause of my cold start issues) - Plug temp and gapping - Oil type (too thick, probably not running through one of the hydraulic lifters properly) Also, one thing I realised last night that makes me think even more than the cold start issues are related to ignition timing - as I mentioned before, to get any meaninful acceleration I need to be pretty much into a couple of psi boost. It's such a small throttle variance that I can't tell whether I'm actually giving it more throttle or not. It also does weird stuff like getting a sudden (small) burst of power ever couple of hundred rpm, as though it's going up through the cells in its map and changing the ignition timing. When it's doing this low power trick I need about 2500rpm before I get any decent power - below that I need to be in boost to even keep up with slow traffic! Weird...

Ah, that's good to know about that ticking. I'll just change the oil next time it's due, doesn't really bother me *that* much, as long as it doesn't have to do with problem #2! OK, I know the rocking you're talking about with the misfiring, but mine's not doing that - it's a different kind of rocking Mine used to do that before I changed to the Splitfires. It's more like a sudden vibration through the car as 1 or 2 cylinders misfire, and it's very random. Does that sound like it? Mine is just a constant rocking, definitely not related to misfiring - closest thing I can think of is like being on big cams (like 260+). I'm thinking that possibly it could be related to using the wrong oil, as maybe the hydraulic lifter still isn't working properly, therefore the "quality" of the burn is wrong and therefore makes the engine slightly unbalanced, which then rocks the car constantly?

Nah, I haven't had the time to look at everything just yet! Man, I'm slack Hoping to get to it some time this week and will post the results here.

You are possibly experiencing what I am? See point 4 in the first post in this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...em-t296541.html Is it actually misfiring or does it sort of feel like R&R? A summary of the stuff to check, which I got from my thread linked above are: - coolant temp sensor - incorrect plug heat range - use heat range 5, gap to 1.0mm. As you can see in my thread, I'm currently using 7 w/ 1.1mm gapping and it doesn't like it! - use correct oil viscosity - if you have any problems with the hydraulic lifters (do you hear a tapping noise sometimes?) then possibly oil that is too thick will prevent some of the lifters working properly - although that's just my logic that could be totally incorrect However under cold start conditions it could definitely have an effect. - ignition timing - fuel pump (not sure about this but can't hurt to check! Mine also failed recently even though it's a totally unboosted car... as in, *less* than stock boost, long story ) - ignitor pack - crank angle sensor - I admittedly did have Splitfire coilpacks, but even when I switched back to stockers, I noticed no difference under high load situations, only idle. I think for a stock(ish) car, the stockers should be fine!

Well the Synapse Synchronic BOV is one of the quietest I've ever heard. Vid here: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1..._WOAw&q=bov Link: http://www.synapseengineering.com/

Hey guys, I'm after 2 new or second hand tyres: 255/35R18 for the front of my Supra. The car is undriveable ATM so I'm after these ASAP! I'd like them to be the same (obviously), and from a well respected brand, such as Bridgestone, Dunlop, Michelin, etc. Nothing like Nexen, etc. Price: basically as cheap as possible so 2nd hand is probably the way to go, but if 2nd hand I'd like at least say 75% tread left - but they'd have to be *really* cheap if they're that worn. I will pay any reasonable price - if it is in fact reasonable. Don't mind if they're DOT approved or not, but if they aren't, it would be nice if they're a very good tyre at a good price. Please reply here or PM me if you can help me out, and make sure you leave a price. I don't want to have to chase people up or ring around - simply don't have the time for that... Thanks! Note: I've already searched everywhere on this forum and can't find anything in this size. Unfortunately, this is a particularly hard size to find!

Thanks for that, definitely helps! Making a list of stuff to check when I get the chance. A friend just got a hoist put in his garage... Yes, the car is actually quite stock now, as you can see... which is actually more of a rarity these days than modded cars are! I've tried to keep it as stock as possible just to try and stop stuff going wrong with it. Unfortunately, getting a hold of the splitfires again won't be easy, but if it's just to test some things for a couple of hours it should be OK. Unfortunately that rules out cold start things, however I was having the cold start problems with the Splitfires anyway... I'm definitely interested to see what changing to the 6 heat series plugs gapped at 1.0mm will do. I did actually hook up the stock boost solenoid a while back and it didn't have any effect! I'm 99% sure all the piping was as it should be, but there *is* that 1% of uncertainty... A friend told me that the wastegate actuators grow weaker with time so the wastegate opens up earlier, and probably would run less boost, however I'm doubting that's the problem as I understand the stock wastegate spring is set to 5 psi, and I can run 5 (in the hot) to 5.5 psi (in the cold) on WOT. *Unless* what he meant is that the wastegate just opens up earlier, but still holds 5 psi? I don't know... all I know is that I'm unable to run 7-8 psi anymore, with or without the solenoid! Tthere is a way to get it to run 7-8 psi all the time, not just > 4500rpm, via a rerouting of some boost lines, but I couldn't get that to work either! However, once I get my IEBC back it should all just work again (theoretically)...

Oh really!? To tell you the truth I didn't really notice any difference in performance once it was warmed up, but then again, I'm happy with this thing on 4-5 psi so who knows... I REALLY need to get that Jaycar IEBC and DFA in... been with Sydneykid for probably 2 years now...(my fault)

Ahhhhhh right, I get what you mean - it's too thick to be able to get through the fine oil lines of the hydraulic lifters, which is what's causing the ticking? Yes, standard fuel pump. What exactly is the ignitor pack?

1. Yes, I was thinking this, however they're pretty expensive to replace, right? I was told to replace all of them I was going to bother, then when I heard the price, I decided against it. Should I bother? Could it have something to do with my cold start issues or low power delivery? If not, I'll just leave it I think. Perhaps another engine oil flush would help? 2. I really have no idea how to check these things. Is it doable with a multimeter or will I require special tools? 3. The noise has gone now, I'm mostly concerned about the rocking. It's not uncomfortable, just annoying. 4. LOL, I'm not treating it as a "racetrack", it's more just so I don't lose speed going up there. Everyone starts at 110km/h at the bottom of that (speed limit is 90)! Lately I'm at about 100km/h by the top, in 30C+ heat, 1 person in the car, ~3 psi boost, nearly half throttle! That's very bad. The reason why I have 7's is on the advice of a friend who claimed he was running 7's because of the information on these forums! He also said that 5's are too hot and that some people run 6's in Australia because of the hotter weather. Is this correct? Also, is there anything actually wrong with the stock coilpacks? I can't really get my old Splitfires back - I sold them to someone, but I can buy some new ones. Although, is that really necessary? Re: the gapping, on stock coilpacks @ 1.1mm it was misfiring, coming straight from a car that wasn't misfiring into mine. So I'm thinking that a smaller gap would be better in terms of preventing misfiring, but what's the flipside of this? What about using a 0.9 or 1.0mm gapping instead? What effects would this "heavy" oil have? Can I just leave it until the next oil change? No, I haven't checked the ignition timing, although I would have thought that it would have been checked on my 100k service! I'll have to check that ASAP. I'm running the factory air box but with a K&N panel filter. I used to run an unshielded APEXi pod but it was too noisy...

Hey guys, I probably should divide this up into 3 posts but I don't know if these problems are interrelated or not. Apologies for the long post, but I thought it would be best to give all the details I can to minimise guessing! So here goes. Some background info: - The car is an R33 GTS-T S2, auto. - Until a month ago I was running Splitfire coilpacks but have returned back to (supposedly good condition) stockers that I swapped with someone. - I can't remember exact sparkplugs but I *think* they are NGK, heat range 7, gapped at 0.8mm. - Sparkplugs were previously gapped at 1.1mm with the stock coilpacks and it was misfiring at idle, so I got the Splitfires, which fixed the problem. As soon as I went back to the stock coilpacks (different set), the misfiring returned, so I regapped the plugs at 0.8mm and that problem has been fixed. However, the misfiring may be related to one of the problems below? - Been running wastegate boost pressure (ie: solenoid disconnected, 5 psi boost) for a fair while now (can't be bothered fixing it for now, have another car to satisfy my "hoon" needs ), so that means I need to give it a tonne of throttle to make even 5 psi! So here are my problems: 1. I stupidly put in non-synthetic oil 20,000km ago and ever since then the engine has made a ticking sound on one of the cylinders, both when cold and hot, until I ran an engine oil flush through it and have put in full synthetic Nulon 15W-50 "Street and Track High Performance" oil. The ticking sound is still there when cold but *mostly* disappears when warmed up. I think it's still there very faintly even when hot. Any ideas how to stop this ticking? Could it be related to problem 2? 2. This one is really puzzling. A few months ago (meaning on both stock coilpacks and the Splitfires) my car started suddenly losing power when it is cold. I seriously have to go into 1-2 psi boost to get any useful acceleration under 60km/h! Even on the flat at a constant 50km/h, the boost gauge needle is almost on 0! It is very sudden, almost like the A/C compressor has turned on, but saps about 3x as much power (it's not the A/C comp, I've checked), pretty much instant loss of power, like a switch has been flicked somewhere! I also swear I can hear a "click" when I lose power too, but that may just be my imagination - On the water temp gauge, it happens only from just above cold to about 2/3rds normal operating temp, after which point it's fine. - Straight after I start the car, it will hesitate for a second or two the first time I give it gas, then suddenly take off like it should. - Occasionally, when I start the car, the revs will drop really low (like 400-500rpm) for about 5 secs unless I give it gas for a couple of seconds, which seems to get the revs back to normal. 3. After I got my 100k service done, I had a noisy timing belt which was apparently over tightened. Got that fixed but ever since then, the car rocks lightly at idle, like it's on big cams. Even when warm, mostly in neutral, I think because the revs increase just enough for it to be in the rev range where it rocks, at an indicated 800rpm or so. When the car has been running for 15 mins or more, *sometimes* in neutral it won't rock as much. In drive it idles at maybe 750rpm which is just enough to stop it rocking. What's causing this? 4. Going up Lapstone Hill in top gear in the cooler weather, I'd give it 1/3 to 1/2 throttle (no solenoid to help with boost, remember) and I'd get around 4 psi boost which would mostly hold a stable 110km/h up the hill. Giving it the same throttle in 30C+ heat only gets me 2-3 psi (to be expected because of the heat), however the car sort of hestitates randomly all the way up the hill. It doesn't feel like a sudden jolt, like I'm getting a complete momentary loss of power from a misfire or something, it's more like what R&R does - kind of like a repeated soft loss of power for a split second, like going from 90% to 100% power randomly once or twice every couple of seconds - I guess several cylinders in a row are momentarily running at reduced power. Surely it's not R&Ring on 2-3 psi boost!? Any ideas? Anyway thanks again, if anyone can help with any of these problems please put down your thoughts!

Thanks for posting the dyno graphs so quickly You can see that there's only 2C diff between AT and IT, so that is an honest power readout. My guess is with the other one that it will be a lot more than 2C! That's exactly what I wanted to hear with the clutch too I have an HKS twin-plate in my Supra and it is very light, probably 30% lighter than the stock (somewhat heavy) Supra clutch, *but* it's like an on-off switch! AND I had to learn how to drive a manual in that car... not fun... 3 months of driving at midnight in a uni before driving in traffic... but the bonus is now, I can use just about any clutch straight away and I can heel-toe almost perfectly on every downshift!!

Yes, that fuel economy isn't too bad - sounds like a little more than what I get out of my GTS-T. Just wondering why there's such a huge power difference between your dyno readouts? Do you have them available? One thing it could be is if they've "dodgied" them by making a huge difference between the AT and IT settings. If you have more than say 5 degrees C diff, then most likely they're placing the temp probe somewhere hot so you get a larger number. Edit: another question, what's the clutch like? Heavy? Light? Smooth or sudden takup? Is it rattly? I've never driven a GTR so I have nothing to compare it to, except for a friend's GTS-T that had an Exedy twin-plate. Very light, smooth takeup. Is it like that? Would be nice if it was

What sort of fuel economy do you get out of this thing, in both city and highway driving, and combined?

An EVO (stock) is good in the first couple of gears, after that it kinda dies down a bit, not that impressive. A Supra in TTC mode with a few mods can give *extreme* boost hits once you hit 2500-3000rpm, but very bad for traction. Think in-gear, 3rd gear wheelspin, 18 psi, on 295's, no probs An R34 GTR with stock (or close) turbos gives a decent boost hit but you have AWD to take care of the traction issues! If you want instant torque from down low, obviously a supercharged V8, or maybe a Supra in sequential mode with high(er) boost is the way to go! It sounds to me like you're after big midrange torque. A turbo is perfect for this. A V8 has big torque everywhere but because of this it may feel "flatter" and not as quick. That's why Supras in TTC mode often *feel* quicker than SEQ mode but really aren't, because the area under the curve is less, plus when you hit that boost you just get wheelspin. But dayem, it's fun to drive!!

Ah, thanks for all that, I'll definitely look into it! Regarding the fuel pump, from what I can see, it's not an in-tank pump and is just behind the inner boot wall, underneath the rear strut brace? Any ideas on how long it would take a workshop to swap? I've been quoted about $250 for a direct replacement (but not "performance") aftermarket pump... just hoping the labour won't be more than 1-2 hrs...