SkudR33

I started off by pushing the positive probe into the back of the plug in the ecu. Managed to wedge it in so that it touches the terminal. Then earthed the other end on the chassis. I think it made it easier because the microtech ecu has roomy plugs... The only other way to do it is to strip the wires, but you gotta try do that without destroying them.

Yeh I definitely will - don't ever wanna go through the headache again! Thanks to anybody who contributed to the thread... For future purposes and research, voltages on the injectors should be checked as it turns out a drop of 0.3 volts can cause a whole cylinder to drop!

I've found my issue - faulty injector. If I give it a few love taps, the voltage rises up to normal and it works fine. Anyone care to explain why that would be happening (for educational purposes) and is there any home fixes or do I have to replace it?

I managed to get lucky in the sense that for about 1 minute the car stop misfiring and it gave me time to check that voltage... I've discovered that when the car stopped misfiring the injector voltage went back up to around 14.3-14.7. It seems as though I've located where the problem is... Now it's a matter of trying to solve it. I'll keep you guys updated. Cheers

Update and questions... Ecu is not my problem - tried a working ecu and it still dropped the cylinder. Tested coolant for exhaust fumes... The test came back negative for exhaust fumes. Tested injector driver voltages... Injectors 2-6 have a voltage (on the driver wire) of 14.3-14.7, however injector 1 (which relates to the dropping cylinder) had a voltage of 12.8-13.7. I have no idea how voltage relates to injector timing and tried to search but found the information was way too technical for me! Does anybody know if this could be causing the cylinder to misfire??? Thanks for the help guys!

Microtech was nice enough to lend me an ecu... Turns out my ecu is not the problem. Back to the drawing board!

I'm with ya was just tryin to calm others down!

Yeh but the generic tapatalk app actually has no issues with the forum - just the sau app that freezes

You guys should try getting it to run on Tapatalk - it's much smoother!

Bump... Still haven't been able to find the matching ecu? Is there anybody out there who may be able to lend me their ecu? It needs to be the model with the inbuilt ignitor as I have series 1 coil packs. PS: thanks for swinging past Brett - unfortunate your model didn't have the inbuilt ingitor.

The car is parked in my garage so you'd have to come to me. Is it possible to get your mobile number?

How much would you sell it to me?

Hey guys, Looking for somebody who'll loan me their ecu for an hour or so. I'll be happy to pay somebody as I need this urgently to confirm whether or not my ecu is screwed up. I'm looking for a microtech ltx-12 and I'm located in western Sydney. This is my last resort before I'm forced to take a gamble and replace my ecu. Thanks in advance

Hey bud would you sell the coil pack loom separately???

Just getting hammered at work - I'll keep you guys filled in on the progress I make!

Hahahaha... I obviously didn't think that through! I might try removing the TB and swapping the injectors around. I'll keep you guys filled in - thanks for the help!

I might buy a block tester to check your theory! Thanks for your advice... Yeh they were brand new. Even looked new - I knew they were shit injectors but needed something temporarily. You guys think it's a good idea to remove the first injector and then plug it in and crank car over to physically make sure petrol is getting squirted out of the injector? A bit of a big job to swap 1st and 2nd injectors as they are side feed and I'd have to remove the plenum.

I tried this - water didn't really bubble. A tiny amount of white froth developed as the coolant started to get hot. Not sure if that's meant to happen but I read up that it froths a little when the radiator starts to build up pressure. Massive head f**k it has become!

The tuner was referring to heat and vibration of the ecu unit as opposed to it sitting on a work bench. Reckons something could be getting hot and loosening up causing the igniter not to fire correctly. With the injectors, I checked the plugs with a node light and also used a stethoscope to listen to the injector. Node light went off in the same sequence as the rest of the injectors and the injector also had a tapping noise in the same sequence of the others. Is there anything else I can do to check the injectors???

Hey bud, Misfire stays on cylinder 1. Doesn't follow coil packs or spark plugs.

I've managed to get tapatalk to add the sau forum on my iPhone (jail broken)

Well I spoke to my tuner and he reckons the bench testing isn't a good indicator as its missing the environment and load of a realistic situation. How could I definitely confirm that coolant would be leaking into the cylinder. I've checked the coolant in the overflow bottle and radiator - fluid levels haven't change. Fuel I can definitely confirm because of the tests I did on the injectors and secondly because the misfire is causing the care to run extremely rich. I have a serie1 rb25det but the ignitor has been removed becuase the ecu I have has an inbuilt ignitor. Tuner reckons ignitor in ecu is probably screwed....

Full list of mods: - GCG highflow stage 2 ball bearing turbo. - cam tech 256 cam shafts - tomei adjustable cam gears - supatech tech valve springs, retainers and stem seals - blitz dual sbc boost controller - microtech turbo timer - gates racing belt - microtech ltx12 ecu - YJ coil packs - Bosch 044 fuel pump - five-o 660cc fuel injectors - front mount intercooler - arp head studs - cometic mls head gasket Also the head was recently serviced and had a mild polished. I'd say that's pretty much everything that's been done to my car.

Haha any help is good help - I knew I'd missed some things out of my main post. So yeh I also replaced my spark plugs.