MearCat

Not every car in Japan has done the same number of kms/year. Like I said - they are out there, but I'm sure the number of 8 year old cars with genuine low km's like mine had is small and if you want one like that, you HAVE to be patient. If it takes me 2-3 months to find another one like that, then so be it. Getting a car with 60-80K on the clock is much easier, but I reckon : NEVER "settle" for a car. Get the one you WANT. Meanwhile, my 1972 Mini Clubman is my daily racer :lol:

Abso-bloody-lutely I believe it. My previous R33 had done 33,000km when I imported it which equated to driving it at 4000km/yr. Just like KeeFy, a lot of people (not in the import business) told me it HAD to be fake, wound back, but EVERYTHING about the car indicated it was genuine - body, interior, mechanical condition, right down to the odometer reading stickers pasted in the door jam at each service interval. Nelleh - The R33 I'm searching to import now (yes - through Paul at Autoworx as well) will not have any more than 40,000km on it. Having had one, I believe they ARE out there (just not lcally with low kms like that), just be prepare to wait for it to come around.

Really? Damn - I worked (part time/casual) from when I was 15 years old for 2 years, saved everything I earned. I managed to save $6000 (this was back in 1990 mind you) but who the hell would give a the other 30K+ loan to a 17 yr old with a job at KMart/Coles/Hungrys, because lets face it, that's about your average job at that age. If I saw ANY P-plater driving around in anything more expensive than a 30K+, I would easily assume s/he's getting help from mummy & daddy.

The actuator is a simple item. Places like Jaycar or Dick Smith will have them and may match the stock one

What extra does the 40th anniv edition have on it? The brocgure than funkymonkey posted doesn't really explain much

Autoworx in Wangara sell them, but not sure whether they have any silver ones. http://www.autoworx.com.au/bodykits.htm

Mmmm - a rather large ball park. But nevertheless, the upper part of the ball park is still pretty good for a 98 R33 - which can be harder to get hold of for a good price than 96 or 97

Of course the question most people will want to know is how much will it cost you (landed & complied) before registration

I remember reading somewhere a fair while ago that the demand for cars in the japanese auction houses changes throughout the year. eg - in month xxx people get their yearly bonuses so more demand for cars, in month xxx it's towards the end of financial year and companies want to get rid of their cars etc etc Can anyone shed some light whether this is true and how demand does change throughout the year. I'm looking on importing a late model R33 (1977-1998) and was wondering whether there is any benefit in me waiting a few months or not. R34 prices are too crazy at the moment so R33 it is. -MearCat

I've done it with my old R33 and I had a extremely good experience that way, so I think I'll stick to that method. Actually I'm not going to go thorugh a broker as such. A local compliance workshop does the importing and compliance and will be doing it through them.

After selling my Series 1 R33 NA, I'm now trying to figure out what I'll upgrade to. My budget is $20K and intend to import a car through a broker (Presitge/J-Spec etc etc) I was initially going to go for a 1997 R33 Gts-t Coupe but have since found that 1998 R34 GT-T sedans (the R34 coupes are way over my budget) go for around the same price (with about 50,000km). Whatever I import, it will only have some minor (if any) mods. I like the shape of the R33, but the updated R34 shape is growing on me as well. I need some comments - pros & cons of going either way - mechanicals and asthetics. Also - are R34 Sedans available in manual?

That's for big hp cars... For lower hp modified cars (eg. exhaust, dump pipe, filter, intercooler, SAFC) would there be any benefit in relocating the AFM after the intercooler then?

Dr_Drift, Can you elaborate why it has made a difference to the tune? Differnece in tuning with just SAFC or a Full E-Manage type system? More accurate A/F ratios? More increaed in power? Ease of tune?...

Sorry - been on holidays for a week or so. Back Now

SOLD!!!

Ken - Have you got a pic of what yours cluster looks like. I've seen some pretty ugly ones out there (not just for R33's)

In stock ... where?

The whole idea of it was to make to more intelligent that just switching on a fan at a certain temp (as explained in the first post). Only wanting to turn it on when needed - reread the first post

That's for a WRX though

Yes - they have some good kits. But what I actually want is a merge of Jaycar Kit KC5381 ( Economy Adjustable Temperature Switch ) and KC5377 (UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE SWITCH ) I'm actually thinking of using a PICAXE microcontroller and some DS18B20 digital temperature senders to make it a lot easier than trying to design an analog circuit.

The gauges, or the cluster?

How did you trim the blades down?

I found out they are from TRUST but hard to find and stupidly expensive ($250)

After reading up a fair bit on intercooler sprays and fans, I want to make a circuit that does something similar to what's described in this Autospeed article http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2478/article.html . In this article, the fan is turned on when a certain air flow (voltage) is reached, but I think this functionality would be completely complimented with some logic that turns the fan on when this voltage is reached AND when the difference between the ambient temp and intercooler temp reaches a certain amount. There is no point in having the fan on when the intercooler is not warmed up! Even if you are sitting stationary in traffic. The hysteresis of the circuit will be determined by the AFM voltage and differential temperature and doesn't really have be configurable. Eg. - The fan is turned on (via a relay) when the intercooler core is ~10 degrees above ambient AND air flow voltage is less than 1 Volt (say this was the AFM voltage at idle). When either the voltage goes above 1 Volt OR intercooler temperature drops below the 10 degrees difference then the fan is turned off. It will involve 3 inputs - the AFM voltage and 2 thermistors. Can ayone help is designing a circuit like this? I am competent in building electronics kits/projects but designing is a little beyond me. I think a circuit like this would be great for anyone with an intercooler that wants to prevent heat soak (especially prevalent to those WRX owners with top mount coolers) -MearCat

I will leave the CD tuner deck (Pioneer DEH-5450), Pioneer 6 CD stacker and Pioneer splits (BULLET splits with crossovers) in the car and the price will be $14,500 firm I also have a remote contol for the deck which I've never used and is still in the packaging.