MearCat

Can you pls post a pic of how big the screw top on the catch can is. Also - how big is the entire can?

I guess you're better of buying a fuel pressure gauge - from the sounds of it that's about the only thing that'll tell you if a catastrophic lean out occurs!

Ooh - I might buy one for my 1972 Mini 1100cc then!!

From what I understand about the device, it would report it though. There are two configurable settings (AFM voltage and Oxy Sensor voltage). So when he has the boot into it at about 5500rpm, the AFM voltage would be above the preset amount. And if the oxy sensor voltage rises above another preset amount, it's lean. When both preset amount are reached and alarm is reported. The device or course wouldn't report it if you were doing 5500rpm but didn't have your foot down (revving slowly) and it went lean, but of course if you haven't got you foot into it, is it really as important to indicate a lean condition? Also, whether the oxy sensor is being used in closed loop or open loop by the ECU, it will still report a voltage to the device. I don't think the device cares whether the oxy sensor can detect the differenc bewteen 14:1 or 16:1. All it needs to know it that the voltage is above eg 0.8V which is lean.

Would I have to give to him with the tyre removed? Or can he take ir off and replace when finished?

Another thing I found out today was that the oxy sensor has different responses depending on it's temperature. The sensor doesn't actually start working until it reaches 350degC, at which point it starts conducting oxygen ions. Has anyone got ideas on how long would it take to reach this temp?

I have read a few threads which I've read about Alliance, Briffa, Just Magz, Leo Gommers etc being able to repair/paint rims. I've just got hold of a set of somewhat rare Stern Squrossa rims and one of the rims has been pushed in on the inside (see attached pic). From the outside/rim face you can't see it. I will get around to getting some other small scrapes shimmed off, some bubbling fixed and resprayed down the track but for now I just want to get this dent/buckle fixed first. I haven't got time at the moment to put the rim in the car and run around to places getting quotes so was hoping to get an idea of cost to fix this. Briffa is probably the closest to me. Would he be able to fix this? Or does he only weld/paint?

Do Suncorp do insurance in WA?

I got thinking about high flow (or high volume) cats/catalytic converters the other day. There has always been talk on many forums about some cats flowing 700CFM+ and others flowing "only" ~500CFM but what I want to know is... over a certain flow rate does it really matter? I don't kow the forumla for working out how much air is comsumed/expelled by the engine under a specific boost (can someone help with this), lets use a baseline of - A 2.5L engine running 12psi @ 6500rpm. I DO NOT want to know that this brand cat has this flow and that brand cat makes that flow, I'm simply trying to determine is it realy worth chasing a cat that flows 700CFM+ if all your engine flows at peak rpm and peak boost is eg 500CFM.

So really, your also saying that the cars' ECU which relies on the standard sensor would wont be acurate in it's calculation of how much fuel to inject into the engine?? Surely this meter/device though would useful in detecting the "health" of the O2 sensor - say if the mixtures aren't being changed rapidly then the sensor would be on it's way out? Or to detect something like overfuelling due to eg. a problem with the AFM ?

So what happens to a cat when it get's old and starts affecting flow? Does the honeycomb subtrate starts oxidising and getting deposits like the cr@p in your arteries?

So has no-one been game enough to buy those 2 filters and cut 'em open?

A high flow cat has been proven to increase horsepower by increasing the amount of gases that can pass through it, but what makes it flow so well? Is it the number of cells (small squares you see when looking through the cat) per square inch/cm? Why does a metal-inside cat flow better than a ceramic-inside?

Mmm - I'd say this would only be in the R34 GT-R. They have a G readout on the dash display.

I want to remove my ashtray in my SII R33 and mount my Greddy Profec boost controller in there (to make it a little hidden) so just the face of it sticks through a panel. I don't want stick it anywhere else around the dash using velcro or doble sided tape. There are no mounting points on the casing of it, I'm certainly not going put screws into the controller casing, but can't figure out how I'm going to mount it in a replacement panel (in the ashtray compartment). And of course it has to be held securely as I still have to be able to press the buttons without pushing it back through the panel! Mounting the controller in the spare DIN slot underneath the stereo would be the same kind of principal, so if anyone has done that I'd love to know how you've secured it.

Yes - I see what you mean. However - the kit has another adjustable variable (The voltage signal from the AFM) which you can set to signify when when the car under heavy/full load. When set up correctly, the buzzer will only go off when it's lean AND under load. So yes the car is ALWAYS going to be over 14:1 when at cruise/idle/closed loop, but because it's not under load (ie AFM voltage is high) at the same time, the buzzer should not go off.

From what the Autospeed article says you can adjust at what point the display lights the red "Lean" LEDs. Perhaps this was not adjustaed accuractely in your case?

Has anyone purchased and installed the Jaycar Smart Mixture Meter? (Linky - This is new SMART version, not the original one from many moons ago) Can anyone comment it's usefulness/accuracy? For $28, it looks like a great cheap alternative to A/F ratio gauges which do nothing but show the ratio (for much more $$). This has a lean-out alarm - a great feature! I think Autospeed did a review on this at some stage too.

PM Sent

Let me guess - your cooler was sitting below the bumper and you hit something?

When will poeple learn - put up some pics or a link. Otherwise You'll get countless posts. Post some pics, Post some pics, send pics to this email, where are the pics? etc.....

I have been looking around for the past 3-4 weeks trying to find a set of 17inch rims for my (silver) R33 SII but have not had much luck finding anything I like. I am after something like the Volk Racing Challenge (thinnish 5 spokes) but all I can seem to find is places selling 17x7 rims not 17x8/17x9. Those places selling 17x8 are usuallly offset for FWD and Commonwhores! I want to stick with 17's and not to go to 18's. If I go with 17x7 rims, my tyre width on those would be ~215, 20mm narrower than the 235 on 17x8 on the front & 40mm narrower than the 255 on 17x9 rears. In terms of grip and handling, would I be better off keep lookng for a set of 17x8/17x9 rather than settle for 17x7s? P.S. - I am on a budget (max $1500) too, which also makes it harder to find what I want.

I am after a stock wing from an R34. Any colour will do. Prefer from Perth, W.A, only Email or PM me

For optimum results, you'll need a nozzle that provides a really fine or atomised droplets (industrial types like Spraying Systems nozzles). Certain retic sprinklers can provide a finer type of spray but it all relies on having a pump that can provide a high amount of pressure. I don't think the stock pump in the washer bottle would cut it.

Bah! Why can't these companies make gauges in PSI not kPa!