MearCat

Not as yet. I have a R34 sedan pod, but unfortunately I'm finding in hard to get an R34 coupe to loan to design a pod for it. I usually borrow cars from Autoworx (here in Perth) but they won't have an R34 coupes for a month or more. Has ANYONE in Perth got an R34 coupe that I could use for a weekend?? It will be securely stored and will not be driven. -Alan

I realised the other day that have I a friend that recently bought a MY04 WRX (model previous to the current/new one), but it would be good if can source a GC-GF chassis based Impreza as well (MY94-MY00). Nizmo - yeah I'm patient. I've got a Mazda3 MPS and an S14 to finish over the next couple of weekends anyway. I'm in no rush.

I just found out that the 4 door versions are slightly different to the 2 door versions, and the pod I have made for the R32 is for 2 door one and the pod for the R34 is for a 4 door. So I now want to source a R34 2 door to loan for a weekend to design a pod for that model. If you are in Perth and interested in getting a free gauge pod for you R34 2 door, please contact me ASAP.

I just found out that the 4 door versions are slightly different to the 2 door versions. The pod I have made for the R34 is for a 4 door model, so I now want to source a R34 2 door for a weekend. If you are interested, please contact me. Also - I'm STILL after a S15 200SX as well

SOLD!

A lot of people quote "up to 40% less throw" but it's actually more like 20-25%. Still a noticable reduction though.

C's copy short shifter. Suit all R33 Skylines Never used - still in packaging $80 - free shipping anywhere in Oz

As stated in my 2nd post above, the pods will fit a gauge up to 60mm. I'll note you and nuffsaid down for one each. So far, I have 4 people interested in the R32 pod and 2 for the R34 pod. Keep the PM's/posts coming!

The fuel pressure regulator on the end of the rail can be removed by undoing 2 screws, leaving the rail bare. My car/fuel rail (and all thepics) is a turbo model.

JustSR (SAU ID shy180) will probably be distributing them and they sell for $79ea - prepainted as well

The pod designs for the R32 & R34 have been completed. See pics below. Please reply, email or PM me for interest. Each pod will accept up to a max of 60mm gauge diameter and 40mm depth. R32 (Coupe) : R34 (Sedan) : -Alan

I thought it about time to do a DIY for removing/replacing/upgrading injectors in a RB25 series engine. These photos were done my my Series 2 R33, but it should apply to most RB's I expect Contrary to some posts I've seen, there is NO need to crack open the intake plenum to get to your injectors You only need to remove the AAC assembly and throttle body (and possibly FMIC piping). The entire process should take you ~2 hours depending on your confidence/skills. 1) Remove AAC assembly. There is a DIY thread (HERE) on this but in this case, you only need to remove the AAC from the manifold, not pull it apart. Remove 3 hoses from AAC (circled in red) and loosen 3 bolts that hole AAC onto the manifold. There is no need to remove the hose from underneath the AAC unless you intend on removing and cleaning it. 2) Remove 3 bolts from AAC assembly. One bolt is circled in blue in above pic, but the other two are hidden underneath. Swing AAC away to the side. If the AAC is dirty inside, I suggest cleaning it as per AAC cleaning thread above. 3) Remove metal intake pipe. Remove 2 bolts from pipe bracket and loosen BOV recirc pipe (RHS of pic). Undo clamps that connect intake pipe to the throttle body, including one small hose that connects directly above the throttle body. Move intake pipe away from throttle body assembly. 4) Remove 4 bolts that hold the throttle body on and remove three other hoses (circled in red) 5) Undo a multitude of hoses (red circles) and unbolt the two bolts circled in blue. If you have a FMIC kit, take this opportunity to remove the pipe that runs over the radiator fan. You won't be able to get the injector rail out otherwise. 6) Undo 3 bolts holding the injector rail onto the manifold. You will be able to get to 2 of these with a ratchet, but one will need a spanner. BE CAREFUL - each bolt has a plastic spacer between the injector rail tab and manifold which can be easily dislodged and lost. Remove these and keep for when you are bolt the rail back on. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. 7) The injector rail will be able to be removed now. BE CAREFUL AGAIN - Each injector pintle is inserted into a rubber ring which can also be easily dislodged. DO NOT lose these. After the rail has been removed from the, reach in and unplug each injector (you kind of need nimble hands for this). Carefully remove injector rail by lifting and sliding out towards the front of the car. 8) For each injector, remove the two screws (with Philips head) from the injector cover and take off. These screws will more than likely be tight. 9) To remove the injector... If you don't have an injector puller (which most of us don't), the CAREFULLY insert a screwdriver wrapped in rag into the hole at the top of injector and lever it out of the rail. 10) To fit injectors into rail, put a small amount of grease on the o-ring and place injectors into rail and place cover on the top of it. Only use rubber grease as some industrial greases will eat rubber and that can lead to disaster. Don't try to push injectors into rail, as the cover with push it into place as you tighten the screws. 11) Put rail back into engine bay, ensureing that rubber pintle surrounds are in place, plastic spacer rings for the rail bolts are in place, injector plugs are plugged in, all hoses and clamps are replaced and tightened. Thanks for reading! -Alan

ironchef - pics sent warby - No the Series 1 & 2 are different wiring (search for the Z32 installation thread for more details), but I don't know whether a SII can be rwired to work on a S1

Mmmm - I'm not sure how good it would look having 2 60mm gauges on top of each other. It would obstruct more forward vision that a dual A-pillar pod. It's not a design that I will be doing any time soon.

Actually - when I said inlet temperature, I mean inlet into the engine temperature - AFTER the intercooler. I agree that the the primary concern is the air charge temps into the engine, and measuring the actual airflow rather than the outlet side of the intercooler code may provide a more accurate temperature reading (though how much more effective that would be can't really be substantiated without actual tests and numbers). Unfortunately it comes down to cost. For a lot of people, cost will be a deciding factor whether to purchase an intercooler spray or not rather than getting that extra x% effectiveness.

Well it seems I've opened a can o' worms here with how the spray should be activated. I ask this then - if the spray is triggered based on a temp, then what advantage would reading the the inlet temperature be over having the temperature read at the outlet side of the intercooler. After a good workout, an intercooler core inlet side will be hot and the outlet side will (hopefully) be cool. Having the thermistor mounted in the fins right next to the outlet end tank should read a very similar temperature to the engine inlet temps. I don't think there would be much of an advantage using an inlet temp instead of intercooler core temp as the comparison against ambient temps. Even if you think that the air temps pickup say 5degC between the intercooler to the engine, then simply keep the temperature read at the intercooler core outlet and set the trigger point to be 5degC lower.

If assuming the spray is activated on a high inlet temp AND high AFM voltage - If you're doing track work and your intercooler is heatsoaked enough to activate the spray constantly, I think you're concern would be the efficiency of your intercooler more than anything else.

A double gauge pod that sits on the dash at the base of the A-pillar? There really isn't enough room for 2 gauges there without obstructing vision.

Let me clarify what the proposed kit will do : It will have 3 main inputs to it - AFM voltage so that you can set anywhere between 0 and 5V as the first trigger. There are also 2 thermistors (one mounted somewhere in ambient ie bumper area; one mounted in the fins of the intercooler). There are some jumpers on the circuit board which allows you to set how much hotter than ambient the core will be as the second trigger. These triggers WILL be tied together so that when the air flow is higher than eg 4.1V AND the intercooler is eg 10degC hotter than ambient, the kit will activate a relay (for a water pump up to 7.5 Amps) and keep spraying while either triggers are above the set point. If the AFM voltage drops below eg 4.1V, the spray will stay on for ~2 seconds, unless it detects that the intercooler is REALLY hot, then it will stay on for a further 3 seconds. Paul, I like the idea of using the intake temps as a trigger I want really want to keep the cost down for a kit so will be using relatively cheap themistors instead. I think using a quality thermocouple probe that can be fitted to your intake would increase the cost too much. I believe that by taking time and effort in changing the "how much the core is hotter than ambient" setting correctly (by trial and error) it will give you a similar improvement than using intake temps as a trigger.

In rally situations - yeah fine, but personally I don't think that's such a good idea in a street car because there's no point in activating a water spray if the intercooler is not hot. The intercooler is doing it's job fine until is starts getting heatsoaked. It's just a waste of water otherwise.

I do have a FMIC, but this design is not just for me. It will be for my mate with a TMIC on his WRX as well and another with a 300ZX. This intercooler spray module design will include an output for a water pump anf maybe an (optional) thermo fan as well

I am designing an automated intercooler water spray (kind of based on the intelligence of the Autospeed one, but will be much cheaper and smaller) where the spray will activate when 1) The air flow through the AFM is above a configurable point AND 2) The intercooler is hotter than ambient by a configurable amount. What I would like to know is what you guys/gals think is a reasonable temperature set point for a spray trigger. ie How much hotter than ambient should an intercooler be before the water spray is activated? Please consider what would actually be beneficial to both performance/cooling advantage and water saving when voting in the poll. Cheers! Alan

Simply mounting an intercooler in front of the radiator would have MUCH more of a flow restriction on your radiator than any coating on it, but that's what the thermofan on your radiator is for - to kick in when the coolant is too hot (even if it's caused by lack of airflow to it). As for clogging up the fins in the intercooler, you have to to driving through some VEEEEERY hefty bug swarms to do that. The paint is not thick enough to block the airflow through the intercooler. And yes - all the GTRs have a black intercooler as stock.

I got 4 injectors from a guy on the Nissan Silvia forums. The other 2 injectors I got from Ebay (sent from USA). Total cost - $405 (before cleaning and flowtesting). The Ebay guy sells them brand new for ~AUD$100ea or 2nd hand for ~AUD$75ea The S15 (Jap Spec only - I think Aus spec S15s have 370cc) injectors are direct drop in for the RB's. No collars or mods required.

For less than the price of the "hiflowed" 440cc injectors from deatschwerks.com, I got a set of 6 x S15 480cc injectors for my R33. Just another option for you if you don't want to go the hi-flow squirts route...