pkblade

Well done on taking the plunge into property investment , I bought a nice Melb apartment at the begining of this year and it certaintly helps with your cash flow if you have partner or two to go into it with. If your land agent hasn't already suggested you might want to look into getting a qualified surveyor *cough*BMT & Assoc* to do a 'Capital allowance & Tax depreciation report for ya. It enables ya to claim the special building write-off + more plant & equipment to depreciate than you otherwise normally would. So ultimately come tax time & being a negatively geared property it further helps you get a higher refund till you sell it/ move in. But, in turn the capital allowance deductions will reduce the cost base when it comes to working out the Capital Gain (or Loss but hopefully not, lol). Good luck managing it

Usually 2 sticks are marginally quicker & puts less strain than using 4 slots of equivalent memory. Personally, I’d go with any 2GB kit (2x1GB), doubt you’d regularly utilise more than 3GB of memory with your current system. With the exception of overclocking, there's no real benefit going with faster RAM frequency than what your mobo can support or CPU FSB & in your case that's 400Mhz (assuming you have DDR2 & P4 or better). Although, RAM is quite cheap now so there’s no harm in getting the best 4GB (2x2GB) you can afford, as they are backwards [frequency] compatible & you can always use it in your next system - provided AMD mobo’s don’t also start pushing for DDR3 to become mainstream anytime soon .

Non-random answer - > This site <

+1 just let them know your car is lowered but most of their fleet have the low ramp planks anyway. Full on Towing is good as well.....oh yeah, Matty31's trailer looks pretty good too .

Sticking with the stock frequencies for your mobo - kralster's Corsair TWIN2x4096-6400C5 PRO 4GB would be an obvious choice or OCZ Platinum-PC2 6400 4GB (2x2GB). Also, both should have reasonable potential if you plan to OC.

^^^ That's an awesome rig you've put together, it's near identical to mine GA-EP45-DS3R Intel C2D E8400 Seagate 7200.11 500GB+750GB OCZ Platinum 8500 (1066Mhz) 4GB Seasonic S12+ 650W PSU Nvidia GB 8800GS -> soon to be HD4870 of some sort

^^ won't be too long before SAU will be using you as their server . Yeah the modular PSU are a nice feature to keep things tidy and provided you don't regularly upgrade or like rearranging things in the case. Think the 9800GTX would easily require min 400'ishW to run a game at load & the other few basic components. Like Mayuri Krab mentioned when looking for a PSU, most of the better model brand names have good power efficiency (80%) and, also, importantly usually rate their units at continuous power (eg. Coolermaster RealPower Pro 650W has a peak power upwards of 780W) and not peak power, which the generic models & brands tend to do (eg. Shaw). Some other reputable brands not already mentioned are - Antec, Seasonic and SilverStone. You should find plenty of reviews on their various models. joel - currently have the 8800GS but now that I've gone from a dual 19" to single 24" screen (tis also used for watching HDTV) I wanted something better for the higher res and settings.

sweet....can't wait to get mine, also, the new > Arctic Cooling Accelero twin turbo is something I'm lookin into to keep it chilled . So, did it live up to expectation in COD 4? and just for reference what card did you have prior to this one?

Ain't that always the case....and yeah the DDR5 card was released to compete in the same price bracket as your current GPU but, perform on par with the GX2 & the uber expensive GTX series. So, atm the HD4870 is basically much like the new GT-R as the GTX280 is to the Carrera GT. joeleo87 - in that case it will be slightly more than stock (ie. 750) & if it's an XOC black edition should come out with an extra 50mhz. Hopefully we can get away OC without having to watercool them.

^^^ nice, I'm planning on getting the OC (800mhz) version then O/C it some more . True, also it seems more nVidia GPU based game too, if I recall benchmark results showed that Crysis was the only game where there was no gain with CF over sinlge, unlike with SLI.

Prob sticky/ noisy lifters which is nothing to really worry about or ^^^ what he said. Where about's in the engine bay is it coming from? low/ high/ front/ rear?

Yeah tis been awhile & that date should be fine so, will catch up with yas then. also, I'll be putting up the $20 in 20min challenge again provided they get the proper mega schnitzel & not that weak'soz x2 small schnitty.

Hey stranger! now just need to get Donna to join, haha. PM replied.

No probs, that is true but the Kaaz site failed to mention is that you can still use synthetic oils provided it's mixed with a lsd friction modifier additive (this stops the 'chatter'). It will state on the back of the bottles if it’s suitable for a lsd or it contains the appropriate additive. Also, with the full synthetics w/additive you’ll have the benefit of extended drain intervals over the Kaaz oil, which, I just read recommends changing every <8,000kms . Axle tramp & soft bushes is a common problem with our aging cars. You can replace the following rear bushes to try eliminate it:* a) Rear subframe bushes (blue Noltecs pictured), OR b) pineapples (yellow)/ alloy (3rd pic) cradle bushes - this 2nd option is a band-aid solution but, it's quicker and allows you to change the angle of the subframe (ie. anti-squat/ drift/ all-round performance settings). &/or * Diff bushes (red bushes pictured)

You'll need an axle oil with a friction modifier additive, this is to stop/ reduce chatter associated with lsd's. Most good synthetic ones come pre-mixed with the correct dosage but, ya can buy the additive separate (eg. Redline). Some recommended ones - Castrol SAF-XA 80W, Penrite SIN 80W & Kaaz Power train (haven't tried this one yet though). A 2ltr bottle should be ample to fill her up. Do you mean replacing the rear cradle bushes themseleves (not adjustable) or putting in pineapple bushes (ie. squashes the subframe bushes & allows for different lift/squat settings)?

^^^ where abouts were you? also about 30mins ago at the same intersect where I was spotted, a midnight purple (I believe it was originally white) R34 w/ Bomex kit & female driver.

Dennis from Boostin Oz would be at the forefront for EMS tuning in SA

Happy B'day to The Chad! Don't think I've posted yet, I'm 27'ish

Don't know of any local retailers but there's some listed on amazon.com > here. or try eBay.

Also, Pilot (pictured) & Razo have some shift knob's with the O/D button.

The 5 speed has 2-3-D+O/D & when left in 2nd the auto ecu selects from 1-2 for you.

The face is about 1/4 DIN in size & depth is 8cm.

The sequence of shifting up/ down the gears has nothing to do with the shifter, it's the fact that it has a forward (standard) pattern valve body. Also, you'll find most of the B&M ratchet shifters have changeable gates so, they're compatible with both fwd pattern (P-R-N-3-2-1) & reverse pattern (P-R-N-1-2-3) valve bodies.

...or, if you have the s1 bar undo the single screw next to fog light (circled in red) & slide/ lever the unit out.

^^^ The quicker shifts won't effect affect the function/ sound of your bov. Unlike with manuals you don't normally lift from the gas pedal (closing the throttle) during shifts so the bov shouldn't open which means no sound.