roboat

I ended up flagging the rear diff and serviced my transfer case instead (did it with the car on the ground reaching under). Car's too much effort to get off the ground, doesn't go up ramps I need to drive onto blocks of wood to get a jack under it and when I jack up one end and put it on stands I can't fit the jack under the other end lol. Might leave that one to the professionals.

Ah k looks the go I have rose joint type hard race rear camber arms and rubber bushed hard race toe arms. I've only seen the spherical bearing type castor rods but clearly they make bushed ones from the link on here, much prefer the bushed ones should last longer.

Ah well the car is going onto stands soon/this afternoon. Going to change the oil in my transfer case (hasn't been done since I've owned it) and maybe have a stab at flushing my gearbox. I bought some chef synthetic atf from supercheap a while ago to do the job (says it's matic d compliant/compatible).

Yeah that's really crap, the retard that owned it before me has got a full one piece exhaust put on that's in the way I can't for the life of me see it. Going to have to lift the thing in the air.

I've searched online and tried to see for myself but for the life I can't work it out. I have a awd auto s1 stagea, where the hell do I put the diff oil in the rear diff? It's driving me mad, I'm sure it's clear as day.

How did you go?

Found thank you.

Bump

Pictures of drivers side sun visor please. Not sure if the same as s1 mine doesn't stay up.

Ove the last week I've replaced my timing belt with a gates racing belt (noisy and regretting it), had my rotors machined, bought some qfm hpx pads, installed new radiator, replaced valve cover seals, replaced dump pipe gasket and installed new o2 sensor. I've pulled my front left cv shaft out as well going to take it to be rebuilt Monday and need to adjustable my coilovers.

Chasing a r33 carbon canister to replace what ever is in there now (it's not the original one). I'm located ipswich, qld so the closer the better

I know it's in here somewhere but the kelpro cob-057 outer boot does not fit the left outer cv (the diameter of both ends are too big and slides out from under the clamps). So what are the none genuine (repco or kelpro) part numbers for both (inner and outer) left front cv boots?

Hey mate any chance you have a drivers side sun visor?

Coz that's crap, i'd rather take the awd parts out not like a stagea couldn't do with a bit of a diet. Pretty sure it'd just be gearbox swap (maybe 33/34 gearbox crossmember), R33/34 tailshaft, rwd sump, rwd front hubs, remove attessa system.

Ive been noticing a few rwd auto gearboxes from 34's lately and have been wondering if anyone knows of wiring differences between the awd and rwd automatic. Would i need to change looms because of the attessa system?

I bought a stagea about a year ago and lately with things heating up i've noticed that the car is venting a lot of petrol vapour pressure from the fuel cap. I've had a look at the carbon canister and it doesn't look like it's the original and there's hoses that are blocked off and one that doesn't go anywhere. I've been searching all over google for a straight answer or even a picture of what goes where with no luck. Can someone help me? What I currently have on the canister is a small vacuum hose attached to the top, a larger one that comes from under the intake manifold towards the rear that is blocked off. There is a hose that comes from the drivers side chassis rail (presumably the fuel tank breather) which is attached to the top of the canister. There is another hose that comes from the passenger side chassis rail that is teed has a check valve one end goes no where (open end) and the other end goes into the chassis rail below the canister. The carbon canister I have has 2 connections at the top and one at the bottom underneath.