R32Abuser

oil pump? if so how much? COndition etc previous history? PM me please!

how much for 25 oil pump? condition? PM me please!

Yeh i was going to try all type-only downside is there all the way over the other side of town to me, but if the job is done well, ill drive wherever! Anyone with any other good experiences similar to what i am doing?

havnt got it done yet-money is tite and im waiting for tax money back! This is what its like being a uni student. Im not rushing things at all, as theres no need to. i priced all the parts up at approximately $500 and then $1-1.5k to get all the work done to the motor by a builder here in Adelaide. so for approx $2k you get a fresh bottom end. Hope this answers your questions

Im in need to get my front bar painted/repaired/N1 slots installed. It is a GTR front (genuine) bar going on a gtst with all the stock guards. I have seen many people have this same setup and it fit like a dream perfect everywhere. Yet i took it too a workshop today and he seems to think that the guards will require spacing out to fit-which i think will look terrible as the guards will then sit further away from the bonnet and it would look out of wack. On top of which i was quoted $550 for the job. (Workshop shall remain nameless) Im just wondering what workshops (with experience in the work i require) people could recommend to me? I know the usuals will come up- MC Doyle, All type etc, but are there any others? im in the eastern suburbs so the closer the better but im willing to drive. Any help will be appreciated!

did this just before....however i induced no angle into it, and the bolt appears to have a failure caused by torsion shear (twisting shear in the plane of the thread). It was simply replacing the stock lock nuts, and was barely even tight which leads me to believe it was caused due to over tightening previously and this exercise threw it over the edge. Anybody got any tricks to get her quickly back on the road?

just sheared the rear suspension stud which comes out of the shock whilst putting new lock nuts on (stock ones). Just had all the suspension out, but looks like it will all have to come back out again. What a prick! Anyone got any spares at all or know a good trick?

Just wondering which places sell the number plate brackets to mount your front number plate to the side (like some drifters have setup) in order to move it out of the way of the intercooler? Any help would be appreciated, Cheers, David

Ive been through 2 sets of coilovers (teins, and HKS) only to get: a) Worst ride possible b) other components on the car deteriorating due to the harsh ride these shocks provide c) reduced handling Mate if your after a good all round package which can be modified for drift, street, or whatever your needs i suggest you go with the SydneyKid Group buy. I have this in my car atm, and it is by far the best handling package from my own personal experience and can be had for your appropriate budget. Why buy a coilover which is not suited to the driving you will be doing? Shoot Sydneykid a PM and im sure he will point you in the right direction, whether that be with his product or any other on the market.

yep the key is to pump many a times before cracking the bleeder for each respective component. I went from highest to lowest point (master, then separator, then slave) in order of bleeding. And it seemed to work. Only thing i would have tried is doing it in reverse order as air usually rises. However my pedal seems to feel about the same as what it was so unless someone tells me other wise i beleive i will leave it as is. Any input is appreciated.

Was changing the clutch fluid in my car and now the friction point is like half an inch from the floor, which is a tad bit annoying when it was alot higher before. I first bled the master cylinder, then the "little black box" or the fluid separation box (as per the manual), then the slave as per the manual, however the manual seems to say to bleed it in a means different to how me and the old boy did it. We did it as following, 1. Person at the bleeder cracked the bleeder open, 2. Pedal depressed 3. Person at the bleeder closed the bleeder now this seems all good but, the pedal doesnt seem anywhere near as stiff as before. To boot ttho the method the manual used is different. Can anyone tell me which one or how they did theirs step by step to clarify! Cheers, David

So whats the go with separating? will you on hte engine package? if so, you have my pm on what im interested in

they all fit, but that sed if your going from a RB20 to a RB25, it isnt advisable to put a torquier motor infront of an inferior gearbox (RB20 box). The torque will eventually rip the box apart.

PM Sent

PM Semt

he is talking about the slave cylinder i believe...

how much for just the links for the sway bar? PM me with reply

Nice. Always reassuring that the things in good nick. Was thinking to do ACL Race Series Rings, Big end bearings, Main Bearings, RB25 Series 2 oil pump (or N1 if money will allow), JUN crank collar, New welsch plugs, Bottom end gasket kit/main seals, not sure on head gasket, ARP rod bolts if money allows. Will just replace the water pump with a new RB30 one most likely-unless there are any better options. Then linish the crank/fit crank collar, balance the up and down/round and round bits, acid wash, honeing, and then deck the block/shave the head to get my compression up a bit from around 8.3 to around 8.5-8.6 mayb im hoping for. Been slack lately, as money has been scarce, but getting back into it. Cant wait to get her up and running and in the car. Mite be a bit like a diesel whilst i still have the RB20 turbo still on it!

Heres a couple of the pics of the bores, the "lip" looking mark at the top as if where the rings travel are smooth as a baby's bum to touch.

didnt import through him, but he lent me parts to get off defect. Dunno bout him though, in my opinion there are better people to deal with. Car didnt make it through first time, so i basically had to get all the work done again by using brand new 2nd hand shocks. I wouldnt go back to him if i had my time again.

being a tuner, its about doing the job rite for the customer-you know the saying, the customer is always rite Here i would consider this a below par installation and i wouldnt be taking my car back there. If you want it done properly i would take it back there and let them know how you want the job finished. Or just finish it yourself and dont go back there.

ill probably make my way there...didnt go last yr and regretted it.

if there is ZERO suction from the intake, there must be a leak somewhere. Where that is, im not sure, its your job to narrow this down. Check cooler pipes, recheck teh spark plugs, and check everything that seals that you touched before the change (within reason). Good luck

havent got the fly unfortunately, bought the engine from a country kid for bugger all-apparently was in the car for 200k KM and blew no smoke just needed an oil change. But ill give it a try with something similar. Chances are ill take it to the shop to get all the work done, im confident with the basic mechanics of putting the parts in the motor-its the tolerances im worried about, and some of the tricks of the trade. And as you said, ill get them to order all the necessary parts to get her going. Couldnt upload the bore picks tho, which is what im more concerned about-im in the process of legally downloading Photoshop to make the pictures smaller-damn SLR cameras! Ill try uploading them tonite.

I do agree with Bumblebee, the 32 chassis does feel somewhat stiffer than the 33...im not just saying this from a biased perspective-i have driven both 33's and 32's with a range of suspension setups and you do notice the 33 is somewhat saggier if only just a bit. This could be more of a feedback from the lever geometry concerning the the control arms, however im just giving the general feeling i experienced. As for picking your car, sit in both and find out which is a better place to be. Which would you be more happy to be stuck in a traffic jam in? At the end of the day its up to you, chose the car which pleases your taste more.