xRHETTx

There are two types: Nissan Skyline R32's and Volkswagen Golf R32's. That is all.

Hey guys, My fuel pump used to make the groan every now and then. My car was running consistently lean throughout the rev range so i replaced it with a gtr pump last weekend. Now it just makes the nice quiet buzzing noise. Havent dynoed it again yet so we'll have to wait and see whether it fixed the fueling problem. I think the groaning probably means your pump is on its way out (maybe its the bearings or seals wearing away)? Rhett

A little bit of turbulence from the nipple is nothing compared to the turbulence the air undergoes when it passes through the cooler core! And anyway the higher the turbulence the better the heat transfer in the cooler.

A tip for anyone looking for R34 gtt intercoolers - look in the Stagea parts for sale section. Series 2 stageas have the same cooler as R34 GTTs.. I picked mine up for about $170 or so.

Remember there are 2 different ARC sidemounts - the 75mm thick and the 105mm thick ones. There is over 25% increase in volume between the two, so you could imagine there is a signicant difference in power capacity too.

Defi DIN Gauge... But as Beer Baron said, it is quite hard to find performance parts shops in Japan, they are not often in the main touristy parts. It might take your parents the best part of a whole day to get out and find somewhere. I made it to a SuperAutobacs when i was in japan.. It was ok to have a look but really is no different to Autobarn in Australia, except with more cup holders and a few sets of Rays wheels. Maybe see if you can get someone to buy something from yahoo auctions for you and get it sent to your parents so they can take it home for you?

16:1 afr this means an air:fuel ratio of 16:1, or for every 16 litres of air pumped through your engine, 1 litre of fuel is pumped in.

But then again I would agree that its a more feasible upgrade for r33s, as no modifications are required. Bringing it down to just the cost of the cooler ($180) and an hours work or so.

It'll cost you about $400 just to fit a FMIC alone. And I'm yet to see a home-installed job that I would be comfortable with driving around with. My reasons for going this option were: Dont want to have to get another front bar Dont want to cut into the front bar i have. Dont like the look of a FMIC (unless the front bar fits it nicely...) Dont plan on going for more than about 200 rwkW. (maybe r33 turbo or highflow at some stage) Didnt want to get defected for FMIC as i already have a pod filter (Vic rules) I already have a water spray controller i want to try out. Didnt want to increase throttle response time (what usually happens with FMICs) Didnt want to cut hole into engine bay near battery. Cost me $370 all up installed if you dont count the dynos (that i didnt really have to have). I'd call it great value. IMHO anyway, Cheers, Rhett

Take the 9k and run my friend... Non turbo Old R33 S1 Accident damaged which required a full respray. $500 worth of damage to front bar... etc. Add in the hassle and cost of selling it. Remember it may be a few months before it sells.

Ok I finally had my R34 GTT intercooler modified and installed at RE Customs by Ray last week. Cost $280 to modify and install, with 2 dyno runs. The reason for two runs was that my AFRs were getting a bit lean, so they cleaned my AFM to see if it was the problem. It wasnt, so I'll be installing a r32 gtr fuel pump in the next few weeks to try to fix the problem. My car: 1992 R32 GTSt Type-M 170000km old pod filter 3 inch cat back 3 inch split BATMBL dump/front pipe 5 inch metal substrate cat and now R34 GTT sidemount cooler. No external boost control (just the stock actuator). As with Patricks, the duct wasnt installed as it would have needed a lot of modification. If i get the chance i'll have a shot at modifying it to fit. The first dyno graph is from an SAU dyno day a while ago. I made 128.3 kW, at this stage I just had the cat back and the pod filter. The afrs were crap at first because i was playing around with my Jaycar DFA and had set up the offset wrong... but i unplugged it and all was ok again. Ok the next two dyno charts are from two seperate occasions, the red line is from another SAU-Vic dyno day earlier this year. As you can see i made 142kW. But my AFRs were way too lean again. This was because i was using United Boost98 petrol (without specific tuning for it). So the moral of the story is dont use it... The blue/green line is with the R34 cooler installed. I made 155.1kW at the wheels. Boost held constant at about 11psi all the way to red line and there was slightly more power everywhere. But my AFRs are still too lean, even with the AFM cleaned. The fuel filter was only a few thousand kms old too. So hence me looking at getting a new fuel pump. So to sum it up definately good value for money, at $170 for the cooler and $280 for the mods, install and dyno run. Once the fuel issue is sorted i'll install my Jaycar IEBC (boost controller) at dial in 13psi i think. Cheers, Rhett

My rb20 stock turbo reaches 11.5psi with no boost control, just the stock actuator... but 1.3 bar (about 19psi) is waayyy too much. 13 psi is a good level apparently.

This happened to me too. There are two part numbers listed, one with a 90 degree bend at the end, the other just straight. The one with the 90 degree bend is the correct one, but is twice as expensive. You can use the straight one, its cheaper but a little bit harder to fit. I think they are meant for 300ZX...

Just put 12V across the solenoid and see if you can hear it. If you cant, then test the output of the AVCR to the solenoid using a multimeter. (Check for voltage across the terminals when it is connected and the AVCR is meant to be sending a signal to the solenoid.)

Wouldnt it be a too lean running GTR? As the car runs leaner, the exhaust temp increases. As the car runs richer, the extaust temp drops. Or have i got it wrong? Rhett

Yeah I'm really happy with the result, picked up 13kW with just the cooler, with the car holding 0.75bar (11psi) all the way through to the red line. I should get a good further increase when i raise the boost to 13psi or so.. I just want to get the fuel sorted before I finally install my other goodies - Jaycar IEBC, DFA and intercooler water spray.

Hi all.. I had my car dynoed on Wednesday and am experiencing a similar problem. 92 R32 GTST RB20 170000km Pod filter 3 inch split dump, 5 inch metal cat and 3 inch cat back. R34 GTT SM intercooler Runs about 0.75-0.8 bar (no boost controller, standard actuator.) I got 155.1 kW at the wheels... but my afrs were between 12.8-13.0 all they way to red line. I'll post the dyno graph later. The workshop cleaned my AFM but it made no difference. My fuel filter is only a few months old. Now i know its not as catastrophically as lean as 16.0:1, but is it worth starting my problem solving with a new fuel pump? Cheers, Rhett

They say that each 3 degree increase in intake air temp makes a 1% reduction in power. So for a 20 degree (at least) increase in temp thats probably 8% power just there, compounded by the hotter air going through the intercooler... So more like 10-15% power drop from increased temp and your getting to be in the same ballpark kW reading. Rhett

My aftermarket boost gauge shows 0.78 bar on my r32 gtst, with only a turbo back exhaust and pod filter. So i would believe the gauge.

Good Gerald, finished uni got a job etc etc... i see you finally upgraded to a 32 eh?

Sell the HKS dump to some sucker, then get a full split front/dunp from one of the sponsors here. They work better anyway, the split is longer.

GTRs use the same petrol as every other Jap import, including r32 gtst... 98 octane at a minimum.