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Pull Vs Push what models had what

ANYONE?

Yes, DE & DET use exactly the same one...

As above, PM me. must be already removed. Cheers

Hey Guys, need a 4wd rb25 engine, prefer closer to melbourne, but could freight form Sydney if need be. Pm me what you have. preference would be cheap RB25DE from GTS-4. not for me, so cheaper is better Cheers

pics of copndition?

also interested in how many bolt & housing size of turbo. Cheers

Mate, z32 300zx Share the same parts. Will all be off the shelf for em. Cheers I confirmed this in Nissan Fast, there may be more numbers than these, but if you print that page out go to your local Nissan and find the diff with those numbers in it you should be right.

It will have to come out, i would say a broken/damaged selector fork. If you can pull it out yourself and get it to a gearbox rebuilder you'll save a packet. If it is a selector, they are pretty cheap and really only requires to take the housing off the gearbox, and very little more. Knock out a few roll pins slide out the selectors, put the new one in etc. If you had a little mechanical confidence you could easily do it yourself. the reverse/5th selector in that box should be 32819-36N10, i would be suprised if nissan wanted more than about $120. If it is anything more, just buy another box as they are basically the same as R31 S3, RB20DET, RB25DE boxes etc... and everyone knows how cheap they are. just put your switches & speedo drive into one of those boxes and on your way.

Thanks Marlin... why can't anyone ever say THANKS on here... hahaha... No we'll argue and rebut what your saying and pick out silly wording errors... Notice the speedo drive is near the sandwich plate in this box and at the rear of the box in T304's pic... the long type sensor is longer than the housing T304's box has to go into... "Thanks Web, your right.." oh am i ... Ok... your welcome SAU...

Sorry Birds, i meant top loading housing. and FS5R30A did come out in some Z31, so that is how it would have one. LUVPSI.... - See this is the expertise i like on SAU... i was wondering where it was. The speedo drive on his box is at the rear, HENCE IT IS SHORTER!!! If he could just buy a VLT/Navara speedo drive he would do that (Which i think you will find he already has tried)... It won't fit this hybrid gearbox it is too long.Cheers

I wasn't going to reply here as i thought the experts would have nailed this... There are only a few options, it is definatly an fs5r30a as people suggest. For those a little slow... Options are narrowed with sloped shifter housing: Z31 FS5R30A with RB Bell housing - rear speedo drive. 2wd Navara box with RB Bell Housing (Pretty uncommon, required a bit fair bit of mod too) VL TURBO MX7 - has less ribbing that is further apart - center speedo R33 RB25DET - is push, looks about right but speedo drive is in the center R34 RB25DET - Pull Clutch, speedo drive center - so ruled out Z32 is ruled out because it would require full case change & is center speedo, which would make it an RB25 box.. lol My opinion... I would say Z31 FS5R30A with RB (RB25) bell housing. I seen that on another forum your after a speedo drive. and if your looking for a stubby mechanical speedo drive i would suggest it would be 32703-31Gxx just from having seen them. FAST Says Z31 is 32703-58sxx the difference between the 2 maybe (i think) the mounting clip/point ??? OR... maybe electric?? I am in the middle of a write up for my site ATM, so without digging through all the info i have gathered i can't be certain... PM me for more info, and i can find out.. too late CBF ATM... COLOURS MEAN: 32703-xxx21 21 teeth (PURPLE) Ratio 4.375:1 32703-xxx20 20 teeth (RED) Ratio 4.11:1 32702-xxx19 19 teeth (WHITE ) Ratio 3.90:1 32703-xxx18 18 teeth (BLUE) Ratio 3.70:1 32702-xxx17 17 teeth (BLACK ) Ratio 3.545:1 32702-xxx16 16 teeth (YELLOW) Ratio 3.364:1 The red speedo drive in the pic you had: Your Post I would suggest is from an RB25DE gearbox from an R33 to have electronic speedo drive.

Nice work, what brand are the bearings & Seals? Price is cheap to buy as the kit. Reseller price from CBC was only marginally cheaper than this. I also rang ATC and they are genuine Synchro's 2nd was the $95ish, 3rd was $127ish, 4th $60ish. How many bearings are in the kit total? Thanks for the pics.

Just out of interest, did the kit contain all of the needle roller bearings in the g'box? pic can be found HERE Let me know what bearings & components they supplied.

Thanks Guys, Bottom end had been built early last year, was already ran in but car had not been driven much. on the day it failed the car got a few revs - 4-5000 after it went to the exhaust shop and had the exhaust modified, but definatly not rev limiter and only 3-4 sharp bursts to mentioned revs to hear it (and that was 4 hours before it occured)... then it drove next door to have a wheel alignment, then back on trailer, when it was taken off the trailer it idled away, turned it off. was started 10 mins later, and when selected reverse to move it a metallic noise was heard, engine dropped to 5 cyl and was shut down immediatly. was at not much above idle when that occurred. Elite, the piece cracked has a small chip missing behind it. There are marks on other valve stems on other cylinders that look tight, and have scrape marks on them. It is going back to the builder tomorrow, if he admits fault it will be left with him, if not i will have an independant inspection Thanks for the help Cheers

Also if the ceramic wheel "just let go" why is the head cracked around the valve guide at all?

engine ran for about 30 minutes, (mostly idling) I am well aware of what happens to ceramic turbo's. Yes these were ceramic. They are what done the damage to the engine for sure. but would this cracked/chipped piece around the valve guide be enough to take out the turbo, and is it the builders fault that it chipped off. since they rebuilt the head and replaced the valve guides? This engine basically got up to temperature idle, colled down, back up to temp & failure. Even with 30 minutes use, this head should be brand new...

Hey guys, we had an RB26 head rebuit, basically (it already had cams) to standard spec with new valve guides etc. What would cause this: As can be seen in the pic, there is a fragment gone from this cracked piece. Something went through our rear turbo, which sent fragments back into cylinder 5 and scored the bore on our rebuilt forged N1 bottom end. The pic is of the front exhaust valve guide on cylinder 6. Our engine builder who will remain unnamed at this point claims to have never seen anything like it. What would be the opinion of people on here, is this crack from valve guide instalation of has the guide grabbed and travelled. Also a valve seat on cylinder 5 has dislodged and is sticking below the chamber enough to catch my finger nail. Is this just shoddy workmanship or something else? we havent taken the engine back to them yet, and are considering taking it to another rebuilder to get their unbiased opinion. Can anyone recomend someone? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks

i have a guide here

It will "bolt-up" no problems, has different wiring plug & ECU will need to be tuned/adjusted to suit. lol. but it is the same size as the std afm and will bolt up the same to your airbox and fit your intake hose.

I have it HERE If you can wait i am putting up a newer version later today

Anyone reading this, if you have any other AFM you want me to add, i am only a PM away.

Oh btw, sorry to hear about your engine. I have seen a 25 exhaust cam snap in 2 before, but not 3... We had an N1 rb26 snap the timing belt idler bolt. bent 24 valves in a great fashion. barely marked the pistons, took them out (they were ross racing forged pistons), had them examined & tested. perfect. So hope you have the same luck with your misfortune. Cheers.

This is why i hate SAU. What a bunch of *%@!'s.. Mafia, if you don't know the answer just f%ck off. The answer he wants is a simple yes or no. With that said - Simply putting it Rb20 intake won't physically bolt up to R33 RB25, but it will to the R32 RB25. R33 RB25 intake manifold and R34 Neo Turbo intake (Non turbo has much smaller ports) are are fully interchangeable. So in theory if you have an R33 engine in it now, and you bolt that intake manifold onto a R34 Neo turbo, and are then using R33 sensors on your NEO, you can use your existing loom, and coil packs(which will also bolt on) with the exception of R34 CAS which you can actually wire an R34 plug onto and will still work fine. (altough from memory the wires have a dif. pin location so would pay to check that first). Use and or graft any other lower loome plugs to suit you. and to anyone else, why does it matter to you why he wants to do it? I would think that it would have something to do with the fact that they are a newer engine, solid lifters, etc, etc. So if you were going to buy a 2nd hand engine, wouldn't you buy the newest and best you could? I can tell you after wiring a few Neo's into R33's this would definalty be an easier option if you havent done one before.

I Agree