webber

RB Engine Number register

rear end of box is easy job once housings off. check clearances on 5th snchro with dial gauge. If in spec replace spring shifter insert. i have some details here I will have the synchro page up this week. Cheers

I personally prefer castrol multitrax 75w/90 GL5; VMX80 GL4 used to be recomended back when i had a VL many, many years ago. Always had shit shifting with it, changed to Multitrax way back then much, much nicer shifting, gearboxes lasted better too. People talk about some GL5 oils causing wear or coating on brass synchros etc. Never had a problem with it. GL5 is corrosive to old-old school white metal bearings(from the ark) which we don't have to worry about. I personally prefer the shift of multitrax over syntrans or VMX-M (GL4 also). Just my experience. I am sure many SAU trained experts will disagree with my personal preferences. i just hate VMX80. Agree with Roy however, for track use, i would use synthetic...

mate spoke to you on the phone, can't send pm's will call you tonight. Cheers Webber

ok, the pdf plugin isstill f**king up. hit the print button then it will load, i will fix it. just changed servers...

My_Injector_Guide

I have to update my list, as i have a bit more information to add to it & pics, BUT check it out HERE 90% of information is from manufacturers websites. So i don't give a shit if You have a blah, blah pump and it has blah, blah pressure at blah blah revs. I don't care. On my site i don't have to please anyone else i just thought i would share. If anyone can fill in some more blanks, then i am listening

Got a new Flwheel or clutch? well if your old clutch or old flywheel is a factory Nissan unit from RB25DET or RB26dett, 32-34 i will offer you $30 for our old scrap pressure plate, $50 for your old flywheel. Also interested in your old buggered clutch plates if solid centered (ie. R34 GTR or S15). Most people usually throw most of this stuff away. Also after any VL MX7, RB25DET or RB26DETT Gearboxes with issues, that people might have. Not paying a tremendous amount as only using for parts. PM if ur interested.

probably not, this more than that, but i know cap wasn't getting any/enough tension on spring, and wouldn't seal.

We had a chinese aluminium radiator in a 31 GTS-X with RB25 track car, exacxtly the same thing, blowing out water from overflow, over heating, thought was head, or gasket, or a million other things. Do you know what it was in the end? The radiator cap neck was taller than the STD item, so STD or skyline aftermarket radiator caps wern't actually sealing off, i noticed this and put a thick o-ring in there for tempory measures (which worked), have since made up an alloy ring to sit into neck, so that there was pressure on the spring and it could seal. Simple Re-bleed, end of problem. This may be completely unrelated and it maybe is your head, but worth a look

Thats what i was afraid of...

I don't know, i have rebuilt a few myself. I only ever use a 20T press, some pullers with some home made additions & bearing seperator plates, Circlip Pliers, Snap Ring Pliers, 6mm pin punch, feeler gauges + dial indicator & stand (which other than seperator plates i had all in my shed & can get away with just feeler gauges really not crucial to have dial indicator for re-assembly). Worst bit with the RB25 IMO is removing the speedo drive hub, but after buying a bearing seperator plate the right size, and some high tensile threaded rod (it is about 310mm down the main shaft) that is now no problem either. My Advise - 1) Don't be afraid of the job 2)Download repair manual 3)On your first box, take as many photos as possible of disassembly. 4)Put every nut, roll pin etc into bags labled clearly, & put them into boxes labelled clearly ie. selectors, countershaft rear, mainshaft rear, etc.. or you will give up and get someone else to finish it for you. 5)Don't necessarily follow the repair manual, make ammendments to suit what tools you have avaliable.(look on net how other people have done it) 6)on re-assembly USE repair manual to check all tolerances and shaft end play. then order thicker snap-rings numbers from manual or shim up as required to meet specs. Housing & selectors takes 10 mins to remove and install, once removed - start at rear of box, remove mainshaft & countershaft bearings & gears in order (can basically only take one off at a time) remove small countershaft counter shaft. remove speedo drive hub, press both shafts together until shafts come free (need a bit of solid bar to sit on end of the countershaft to make same length as mainshaft (just makes easier to press), remove countershaft & input shaft on mainshaft will come free also (roller bearing will drop out of the end so be careful). then disassemble the mainshaft front half per manual. Don't even have to fully disassemble if snchros look fine, just replace what needs replacing or may need in the near future. Re-assembly is reverse, any issues refer to the photos you took. My recomendation is replace all shifter inserts (little spring clips on schroniser hubs), they are a large cause for crunches. and are only like $3 each. If you get stuck, or need internal parts ie. countershaft or etc. Contact me, i have tubs full of parts & have spare snchros etc.. All of the main bearings are common ie. front, rear & center plate bearings - off the shelf at most bearing shops, some of the needle rollers are genuine only others are off the shelf i found NSK did most of them, but not all are brought in to AUS by NSK. Order a front cover gasket & have some threebond 1104 or simular gasket goo handy for the sandwich plate. Then i run Castrol Multitrax (or vmx-m) in the abscence of synthetic fluid. I am in the middle of changing my sites host, but once i get that sorted i will post it all up in detail. For anyone that seen my FS5R30A page on my RB engine number register page will know what detail i had on bits and pieces.

good to see my register gets some use. be nice if more people would submit their details too it.. lol

bump? The skyline scene seems to be dying off these days...

99% of m information is from manufacturers, not made up. http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html Thanks for the response though, i will have to look into it. Cheers

Please Contact me if you would like to submit any articles or information. or make any corrections. Cheers

Thanks guys, this will be a great asset to all Skyline owners... Know if your engine or one you are looking at buying is original or verify what a seller is claiming... etc...

Hey guys, I need your help, many of you would have come across my engine number registers found HERE. I have recently added a submission form fo you to add your cars details, so that i can filter through it and add what is applicable to the register. I am not strict about you putting the XXX on the end of your engine and body numbers, as i will manually enter them into the table, and blank them out. So if you don't know your month of production you are better sending complete numbers to me so that i can fast your vin and get the month. Also i am creating a table of casting numbers from heads, blocks etc (i have a heap more that i havent added yet.).. and if you can submit them too.. i am pretty sure i have most of them, but hey, you might have one i haven't got. Looking at the stats for the pages the other day, pages are linked from forums across the world including japan, malasia, US, Germany, NZ etc etc... We know that we dominate in the RB / Skyline scene across the world, so chip in your bit. Cheers Webber

I have mate, pm me your e-mail address and i can send you what you need. Cheers

In my experiences i have never had a problem running them as they are. Cheers

As for filter, Z145A VS. Z442 are the same thread, sealing O-ring surface size. Both from memory are around the 26-27 micron. Z145A has an anti drain back valve but no pressure relief if it gets blocked etc. Z442 Has pressure relief built into filter and anti drain back. My opinion of it is that, the Z442 on later RB's is used because recomended oil change intervalls are shorter, so smaller filter satisfy those requirements. I have used both on all RB's they are fully interchangeable... just smaller, oil cooler housing the smae etc. putting it in a nutshell "they blocks up sooner if you don't reguarly change your oil". but in normal use you won't ever have that problem. Cheers

Hey guys, for anyone wondering, check out my engine number register: HERE Have just added a submission field that will go to a database for me to screen and add. So please submit your numbers, if you don't know your year & month, pm me i can help. Cheers

You need to get your ECU retuned to suit the extra fuel.

Mate Here is the info you need. Cheers

All i can say GT is WOW. Big money to be made in the Dubai Tuning scene. I have been following your work for years on here, learning allot as you have shared allot along the way. I will be waiting for a set of custom Georgian Pistons... best of luck mate; I have allot of respect for your risks and accomplishments. Conquer the world with the Aus flag in your hand man!!! Lovin it.