Race__24

I won't be able to make it. I have a christening to go to

Any of the blitz units with the twin solenoid. I've used an SBC ID 3 that was tops.

put my old mechanical oil pressure and boost gauges back in after my stepper motor ones kept playing up. Used braided lines and all. Lines cost more than the gauges.

pm please mate

where exactly was it found?

Yeah, it's just like a lathe, only a lathe has more torque, RPM and many more bits you can get stuck in.

Going to try some GW Sougi S 6000, to see how it goes. $60 for 5L is an awesome price for an ester based oil. It's a pity it's discontinued, luckily the local supplier has 6 boxes on the shelf. If it goes well i'll grab a box or 2.

Everything I've read, seen etc says that r32 GTR r33gtst and 34 GTT calipers are all the same with the exception of the thread size. Did you have them the right way around, ie. right caliper on the right hand (drivers) side? They are marked on the caliper but another way to tell is they should have the bleed nipple at the top. There is something funny going on if they don't fit. Might pay to double check your part numbers.

If the $2000 includes Nistune and tuning, you only really have one option - Hypergear. It will leave you with some extra so spend it on a good boost controller/boost gauge and oil pressure gauge

If you end up getting one your very first mod should be a shift kit, whether it's a tiptronic or not. Sway bars would be second, then worry about the exhaust and front mount

I have a couple of items for sale. I prefer local pickup but will post at buyers expense. I may even deliver if you're not too far away. 1. HP VoodooDNA Gaming keyboard - this is a re branded Razor Lycosa, the only differences are the back light color (white), the font on the keys and the finish. You can use either the Razor or HP branded drivers, both found on the Razor website along with the macro editing software. I have only used it for a month or so but for some reason it didn't work well with my system. It's been sitting here for a good 6 months and I want to get it out of here. I have original docs/CD but no box $40 2. Microsoft Sidewinder X8 Gaming Mouse - Is about 6 months old, in near perfect condition. Battery life is as it was when I bought it, I have only used one set of the 3 feet it came with and they have almost no wear. The only thing that isn't as new is a little paint that has rubbed off on the edge of one of the thumb buttons. The only reason that I am selling it is because it is too small for my hand. Comes with everything except the box. $50

Yeah, date would be good

Only the R32s had hydrolic HICAS, they scrapped it when they moved to the R33 and "Super HICAS" which is 100% electronic. Pretty sure the 32s fed from the power steering reservoir.

Tuck it away in the shed at home, they'll never find it there.

The kit cost me $440 from memory, was defiantly under $500. That was installed and included a trans service.

Vettel had a car width to his left and decided to turn right. If he kept going straight he probably would have been 100% past mark before they even started braking. Mark tried to cover seb at first but when he came along side he started slowly coming back over to his right to start braking for the corner.

Hey mate, see if you can meet up with someone on here who owns a tastefully modified Stag and get them to take you for a strap. I have a '98 RS4 and love it. If you, or anyone else is even thinking about getting an auto make sure you budget in around $450 for a MV Automatics shift kit. They just make the car so much better. Manual is the best option tho, but sometimes it's not convenient. With some good suspension under it it will handle pretty well. Something just came to mind........ Somewhere in the suspension thread (sticky) I think sydneykid was comparing his stageas performance with his neighbor's liberty. Not sure about the model tho. Basically I think he found that with swaybars and good shocks the car came up better than the liberty, it may have just been with bars, can't really remember.

To fit the R34 GT-T seats I had to- Remove all but the front inside mounting leg from the rails. Swap the outside rear leg from one seat to the other. Build up the outside front leg so that it was 25mm longer. Bend the tabs on the 2 front mounting legs down to match the angle of the holes. Adjust the position of the 2 rear legs by turning the holes, that I made when drilling out the rivets, into slots allowing for adjustment. Bolt everything back together with button head hex key bolts because standard bolts wouldn't get in there. The result is good, mounts are solid BUT if I didn't get the seats so cheap, or if they sold quickly, I wouldn't have bothered.

Fitted R34 GT-T seats in the stag. t was a bit of a PITA but it's all in there now and they look/feel great.

Mate, get your own full comprehensive insurance. It's so much easier to just get it repaired through you insurer and let them get their money off of the other insurance company. The other insurer doesn't give a crap about you as you're not their customer. Not only that, you're crazy not to have at least fire and theft. I've had my previous car repaired by that crash repairer and have to say it was a pleasant experience.

Mate, there shouldn't be any issues with "boost bleeding off" Possible causes- - exhaust wheel on turbo in poor shape - blockage in either the exhaust system or intake - ignition problem - coil packs/spark plugs - some sort of weird computer issue - dodgy gauge reading low Basically a stock RB25 should be capable of boosting over 11psi, I'm not saying it's safe, or that you should do it, just that the turbo should be able to supply that much pressure easily before running out of flow anywhere in the system. I don't think you really get how the stock solenoid works, all it does is bleeds of pressure to the wastegate actuator above a pre-determined RPM, making the actuator actuate at a higher manifold pressure. It is either on or off. The switching point MAY be adjustable in theory but the boost levels are not. Whatever the setup, the boost solenoid does not limit boost when a boost controller is added (if done properly) or even if a hose comes off.

Oh, and hi-flowing a Neo turbo is the way to go if you're after around 260-270 rwkw. Hypergear can do them for under $1k HyperGear

Just a thought, maybe go for a bosch 044 and mount it in-tank and adapt the factory sock to fit. This way you won't loose any capacity due to the pump sitting higher in the tank, plus the sock will keep any large lumps of poo from getting into the pump.

It was awesome to see Webber's race last night. It's really good to see him out pace his team mate buy so much and the rest of the field by even more, especially on a drivers track. Let's just hope he can carry the momentum on for the rest of the season.

Well, another pole for red bull. They're doing a good job at getting speed out of their cars, hopefully the rest of it sticks together for them.