Mickroy

No, mega-rich like a stock ecu skyline should be... soon as its off idle its fine - have confirmed this with external wideband sensor.

I hear that, and believe me, i have looked.... been over every clamp, every hose, sprayed around everywhere with soapy water & carby cleaner... if there is one, i cant find the prick!

Have done this when i first got it... also checked everything sensor wise, nothing is out of whack, cept for what the o2 sensor sees, but ive tried 4 o2 sensors so i know it's only telling what it sees and isnt faulty.

I've posted a few threads on my r33 over the past two years, and the issue is still not sorted. Symptoms at present are a shocking idle that jumps all over the place, tries to stall, etc. Secondly, according to my boost guage the manifold vaccum is down. It sits at about 12, when it should be closer to 20. Now, I have had this car looked at by multiple workshops, spent enough money to buy a new turbo, and swap tested just about everything bar the engine!! I'm deadset on the brink of getting a halfcut & swapping out the engine. It simply doesnt have enough fuel down low, and i dont know why... i have an untuned power fc, but i want the car to run well on the stock ecu before i get the thing in there. However, i use it for testing. If i dial in as much fuel as i can at idle then the car will idle nicely... and i mean as much as i can, as in the car should stall! With stock ecu the idle never stabalises... you can smell how lean it is, and if i hook it up to nissan datascan you can see the zero reading from the o2 sensor. Soon as i lift the accelerator off idle it starts to cycle. I have read every single thread on unstable idles, lean idles, etc, etc , and nothing has helped. I've listed as much of the stuff i've dont as i can remember, so any advice on different things i could try would be appreciated. It's only been recently that ive noticed the low vaccum pressure... i think it's telling a big story. What I've done Cleaned ACC valve, swap tested AFM, TPS, O2, & Coolant sensors, swap tested ecu, ecu diagnostics, new battery, checked ignition timing, scoured for vaccum leak, changed plugs, gapped plugs, sealed up coils incase of cracking, changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, checked timing belt markings, replaced timing belt coz it was a touch loose, had injectors cleaned, checked compression (150psi across all 6)... thats all i can think of at the moment, but im sure theres more. Cheers, mick

dammit!!! I just bought some for $155 to my door

As described... doesnt matter too much about colour, but KL0 silver would be nice. Cheers!

last of the series 1's... known commonly as a 1.5

part sourced... thanks for all the responses

howdy, im after a specific suspension part for an r33... Its on the left front corner, and is the arm that actually connects to the bottom of ya strut. Basically while taking the bottom nut off the strut, the bolt through the strut snapped, so I need the whole arm. Theres a pic included. The gold bit is the bolt that goes thru the strut, and the taped up bit is the wheel bearing for left/right movement. Please contact me via pm or ph 0407624756 if you have one and are willing to ship it! Cheers, mick.

lol... i like this topic. I also like muffins....

Nice car... identical to mine (even down to the sunroof). The price is a fair starting point.

I went to my car to drive to work this morning.... oh look, a flat tyre! yippee!! Why do the skyline gods hate me so much?? I swear to god im not meant to have this car.

mate, i cant set a base idle.... doesnt matter how i adjust the cas, the timing will jump everywhere at idle. I have tested my datascan cable & software on another r33 & got a rock solid 15 degrees... plug gap is .8 cubes, i actually have a pfc by the way... havnt had it tuned yet coz i wanna sort this shit out first... but i CANT!

cubes, the datalog is from nissan datascan.... plugging into the STOCK ecu. AAC valve has been cleaned, cas has been swap tested. cheers

Ok, swap tested the CAS.... same deal. WHY!? Not the AFM, O2 sensor, plugs, coils, battery, CAS, AAC valve. I tested the A/F ratios with a wideband O2 sensor & they were spot on too. I got a shit idle, no power, and my ignition timing is all over the shop. I'm gonna drive the f**ker off a cliff!!!!

Ive tried 3 O2 sensors, spark plugs are fine too... replaced recently. I'm glad you've mentioned the CAS rob, coz that is the next part im planning to look at. Anyone got anymore ideas?

I have a 95 r33 gtst... Its had a shitty idle for quite a while. Ive attached a link to an excel sheet with a datalog from the nissan datascan software. It shows a warm start, idling for a moment, then easy acceleration to 100km/h. I would really appreciate it if I could get some opinions on it. The only thing I notice is the very very unstable timing at idle.... but what on earth could be causing this?? Thanks in advance. Datalog

I had a similar problem... if you take the odometer assembly out, look for the white connector. My problem was a loose connection there. I ran the car for a while with the instrument cluster apart, if i applied pressure to the the white connector the odometer would tick over, if i took my finger off it would stop. Have a look there....

i did buy one... cept it was a dud, and most automotive electronic items cannot be returned once opened. so im not doin that again... im after a known working one

wtb as title suggests... i need an oxygen sensor to suit a r33gtst. Prefer nissan genuine part, but not essential. Can be used, aslong as its working! pm or beh_mershal@hotmail.com cheers.

The misses loves my car... she caught the import bug bigtime, and traded in her festiva for a SC400 v8 lexus.... lol, it makes me giggle when I think about it. She dearly loves her car, my car, and me... woot!

I had a terribly f**ked up idle... although many people say it doesnt do shit at idle, it was a dead oxygen sensor.

awwwt.... but i like my seat covers! If its a must for buyer, then yes... cept if its you duck

I run 95ron full time as its the highest available here. I'd say fuel up with 95, reset the ecu & u should be fine. Stock ecu is not tunable... but, its clever enough to retard the timing if it detects detonation.

its my daily driver, so its currently registered... all you need to transfer rego in qld is proof of registration & a safety cert. Where are you? ...roadworthy can be organised if neccessary.