Alf

Your forgetting the support systems that comes with turbos, not a cheap exercise compared to a worked na.

Brakes is one area you want to spend money not save money. If you want to do things cheap, stay na coz turbos aint cheap, period!

You are aware that those JPNZ manuals are covered by copyright laws. Are you aware of the penalties of breaching these laws?

Yes that's right ARP don't do rb25 head bolts, not even head studs. If you want to upgrade, ARP rb26 head studs are the way to go, the block will need redrilling for the thicker studs.

You should double checkthe size of the VCT oil gallery in your own head, you may find that there may be small variances. That goes for everything else too double check the measurements on your engine. Making it slightly bigger in dia shouldnt make much of a difference, the sensor relies on oil pressure not flow. It may take longer to fill the oil gallery but once it's full (ie start up) it will operate as normal.

Ring/email HPC, they have a branch in Brisbane at Brendale.

Have a read here, near the bottom of the page. http://www.hpcoatings.com/import_performance.htm

Yes but for around the same price u can get the pipes HPC coated which will look better and will resist heat more than exhaust wrapping.

Bosch belts aren't sold in many auto shops(repco,supercheap,autobahn,auto one etc..) these days it's mostly Dayco. For $37(Dayco) a timing belt for an 96 audi is pretty damn cheap . Your right about the T numbers thats bosch, everyone uses bosch numbers as a crossreference even repco do.

If you change the timing belts more frequently there would be less chance of a failure. I used the 2000 Gates catalogue that I have, It doesn't list the above. I received my belt a few days ago, It's says it replaces a T866. Mine is 25mm wide, has 152 teeth, the same listed in the 2000 catalogue. see attached pic The information on that link seems kind of limited. I don't trust the net when it comes to these things, I'd prefer the catalogue in book form and some good old measuring and counting of teeth.

Your right there Joel. Arias state 86mm stroke and a displacement of 3.035L In the Factory VL manual it says 85mm stroke and 2.962L see attached pic. I'm not too worried about the conflicting specs, measurements will be doubled checked before assembly.

Some trivia about the timing belt Dayco 94407 that most of you guys use. Did you know this timing belt is also used on factory Audi A4's 1.8L 20V twin cam Quatrro and Turbo 95 onwards(ADP,ADR and AEB engines). Also for the Volkswagon Passat 98 onwards 1.8L 20V twin cam, including turbo (ADR and AEB engines). It's the same motor in both makes.

The forgies finally turned up. It's an Arias rb30 piston kit, rings,clips and pins included. It also came with a spec sheet which I scanned and uploaded with the pics.

I rang HPC in brisbane and got a better deal. It's $198 to ceramic coat the tops and cover the sides of the piston in solid dry film lubricant for a set ($33 a piston). It's $8.80 for each ceramic coated valve ($211 for one engine) $3.30 to apply S01 Solid Dry Film Lubricant coating to each valve spring. ($79 for one engine) seems like cheap insurance to me. Information is Here

That's very well done. Did you do that yourself?

hrmm maybe you dont know the difference between an interference engine and a non interference engine. Did you bring your flame proof suit :flamed:

Im curious, is it hard to covert the 4wd box to rwd?. What's involved?. The 4wd box would be stronger in a 2wd set up?

Cheers for the speedy reply, always on the ball So if going down the power porting route for the turbo, it would be better to get both sides done? (GT35R .86 exh) Would there be much benefit in power porting the standard 25 inlet manifold, i'm referring to the bottom half. Would this affect the low down torque?

This "power porting" i've heard of it before but didnt know what were the benefits. From what I've been told a fluid with fine sand is pumped through the housing, not sure if its the exhaust or comp housing but it increases flow. Has anyone had this done before?, from what Joel is saying it sounds like the first step in lowering the spool up time. Hrmm 200-300 rpm....:aroused: About the wastegate location. I have seen RB30ET's with the external wastegate welded to the exhaust housing of the turbo, would this give better response and/ or do damage to the turbo? My ss exh manifold's external wastegate plumbing needs to be bigger in diameter, i'm looking for the cheapest option but a safe one. Sorry to be steering away from rb30's but questions outside this thread dont seem to get the same amount of attention.

Cheers for that, I've been quoted the same price. A question for everyone. How often would you change the timiing belt? would it need to be changed more often if it was making 350-400rwkw and up?

I'd assume all threads were covered in Loctite?

I'd like to know too. The RB30E tensioner pulley has a second stud to stop the spring from spinning around, I havent seen anyone use the second stud in a RB30/25/26

Joel: In your PDF its says that u changed the 25 idler pulley to a tensioner pulley. Were these 30 or 25 items?. My 25 pulleys are rooted, I can get 2 x 30 tensioners (I asked for VL RB30E ones) for cheaper than 25 ones, also how much did u get ur Gates 94407 timing belt for? cheers.

I've been quoted $38 a piston from Jet hot(RB30E forgies) don't forget the valves need to be done to get the full advantage of ceramic coating, SK knows more about this topic.

Does the 25 head need drilling when using the 26 head studs? ARP don't sell a head stud kit for the 25. PS: Thanks for the fast and helpful replies