Alf

I bought my high mount SS exhaust through UAS bout a month ago for $1100. It's well made but when it came to fitting it to the 25 head, one of the manifold studs had to be cut back for clearance. The piping for the external gate is for a 38mm gate, this needs to be changed for a 48mmm gate to suit my engines requirements. Like most aftermarket parts out there, they are never an exact fit. The ports in the exhaust manifold were not matched very well to the heads ports. But that didnt worry me as the head was ported and polished and was port matched anyway.

I'm in the same situation as yourself. Have s2 coils for a s1 rb25det loom, the plugs dont fit so i was looking at getting hold of series 2 plugs or finding an alternative plug that fits. Will s2 coils work with a s1 loom and ignitor?

Considering Mario's 33 and Danny's VL are both in the high 8's says alot about the strength and potential of the RB30 even with the crappy single cam head.

There is no shortage of narrowminded people here.

Would ceramic coated pistons increase the cr much?.

You do have a point, I wouldnt put up with the heavy body but being australian it makes sense to have the room. The engine has potential written all over it, I can see this engine being used in all kinds of cars. My next project is an AC Cobra and the turbo six is making it hard to stay with the 8's. The next step up from an RB30DET?

Does anyone have any information on these?, specs, suppliers etc..

You have got me thinking about the dog box. Anyone got one here? What price range are these in? Besides holinger anyone else make them?

it's 600hp @ the fly. On the street be very subtle with the throttle. On the strip, slicks with the widest combination possible. yes I know it will have plenty of wheel spin, thats the plan :flamed:

Mention skyline and the price is doubled, I'd rather buy a Tremec over a GTR box any day. A dog box on the street is not practical.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------- Taken from meggala's site http://www.meggala.com/r33transmission.html R33 GTST 1st 3.214:1 2nd 1.925:1 3rd 1.302:1 4th 1:1 5th 0.752:1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Supra 6 speed 1st - 3.827:1 2nd - 2.360:1 3rd - 1.685:1 4th - 1.312:1 5th - 1.00:1 6th - 0.793:1 TKO 500 TCET 4616 http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/TKO.htm 1st 3.27:1 2nd 1.97:1 3rd 1.34:1 4th :1:1 5th 0.68:1 * with this box i could use a taller diff ratio To put things into perspective,Compare an rb30E 5 spd (suited for 3.45 diff)- mines a 3 litre bottom end. 1st 3.321:1 2nd 1.901:1 3rd 1.308:1 4th 1:1 5th 0.759:1 Yes your not wrong there the T56 is a heavier box but its strength is much greater (its used in dodge vipers corvettes etc..) The only problem I can see is first gear, but in a 600hp RB30DET would it have enough torque down low to move it just as quick as first gear in a 25 box?

T56 ratios as in a gen 3 1st 2.66:1 2nd 1.78:1 3rd 1.30:1 4th 1:1 5th 0.74:1 6th 0.50:1 Would using a T56 on a RB30DET with 4.11 diff gears be any good?.

Sooner or later I'm going to be faced with choosing a manual :Bang: I dont think a RB30 or a 25 box will withstand a 600hp+ RB30DET with something I want to be reliable and strong. If I'm going to be paying decents amount of $ i would go for something a big stronger than a factory RB box. I have been looking at TKO 5spds, they cost 5k plus. I have also been looking at the T56's used in the gen 3 comies but i'm concerned about the gear ratios in them, they are ment for a 5.7L and maybe too tall for what I want. I have seen some decent priced supra 6 spds but i've never seen one an RB. I wouldn't mind a close ratio 6 speed to make it more "fun" to drive and still be able to cruise in 6th with reasonable fuel economy. :headspin:

The design and visual differences have been covered. But what about the price and failures? How much more are the wisecos and has anyone experienced failures with either brand of piston.

That would make the low end very drivable. What are you doing about the cooling side of things?. Driving in peak hour traffic in brisbane on a hot summers days will surely test the cooling system esp. with your engine specs.

Thanks guys, some really helpful replies there. What is best to use to do the porting with? and what is best to polish with? I'm not quite sure with an alloy head as it's softer than cast iron heads.

What areas of the intake and exhaust ports benefit most from porting and polishing on a RB25DET head?. I've done plenty of Chev na heads before but i've been told that turbo heads need work done in different areas. The head will need to flow over 600hp so even a minor port will make a difference. :spcartman

Being a 4wd engine the thicker block would be nessecary as they have a sump/diff hanging off the block. The bathurst GTR's had a thicker block than ur normal rb26dett, they kept cracking the normal RB26 blocks and it was only making approx 600hp. An rb26 converted to rwd is of course stronger but then the RB30 also has a strong reputation too especially on the 1/4 mile. On the street I'd choose an rb30 for driveability an rb26 is overkill unless your wanting insane power. But at the end of the day it comes down to $$$ Rb30's are cheap and plentiful, I got my rb30 block for nothing. :cooldance The R32, tubbed, 3/4 chassis, 1400hp RB30DET build i'm witnessing should throw the cat among the pigeons

It doesnt look like a VL radiator, vl's have the end tanks on the sides, not on the top and bottom. $770 looks beta than buying a vl pwr one. Na and turbo vl's has the brass n copper radiators.

A PWR radiator new for a VL will cost ya $825 (retail) as of last week.

Thanks for that, will make some more enquires :uh-huh:

I come from a V8 background, Who would you recommend?

I haven't decided who i'm going with on the tuning side of things. I've heard plenty of good things about several tuners on the gold coast but i havnet seen the results with my eyes yet. Would prefer someone with powerfc experience. This is something I want to choose wisely. I don't mind using the stock injectors till the power tune is done, i'd rather play it safe.

It hasn't been done yet but yes it will be. All the measuring etc.. is being done by jack bros in Brisbane, they have built rb30 bottom ends before with these type of rods. Pretty much every work shop in se qld (Sub zero, TOCA, Redcliffe dyno and a few porsche cup racers etc..) have recommended them for the measuring side of things.

Things are starting to happen for my engine. The Scat h beam rods arrived yesterday and I'm more than happy with them. It's actually a modified chev rod and wont accept rb30 rod bearings, I have some clevtite bearings on the way to suit. The H beams are so much thicker all round compared to the stockers. :thankyou: I have a question. I'm worried about running the engine in with all the aftermarket parts i'll be using with a power fc on a standard rb25 tune. Would it be better to run the engine in with the standard cams and injectors and install the pon cams and 740cc injectors later. (valve springs will be already installed.) Will also be using a GT35R (700hp) and 48mm wastegate, i'd probably end up doing what joel did with his wastegate. PS: also using arias forgies (8.5 comp) and a Q45 maf.