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Everything posted by Alf
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At what point do the girdle bolts become a concern? I've been looking into a girdle stud kit and a RB26 head stud kit, and yes I'm aware that the head and block will need drilling for the thicker head studs.
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That's an understatment, ooooh yeah.
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Cheer's for the reply, it's what I thought but wasn't 100% sure. Iv'e never started my 33 I bought it with a blown motor.
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Yes they have gone up, I payed $710 plus postage of $60 (along with other parts) arrived one week later after payment. I bought S2 coils for my S1 so I didnt have to use the igniter, coil loom had to be rewired.
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RB25DET - 3 Litre Conversion Completed?
Alf replied to the_tonkau's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The thin head gasket, how thin was it and what brand was it if you dont mind saying. -
Which way does the water flow in a RB?, ie from radiator, through bottom hose into block etc...
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There is one thing I cannot understand about the position of the thermostat on the RB, why the hell would it be postioned where the lower hose is connected. :confused: Never seen any other engine like it. Wouldn't it be better to remove the thermostat and place it inline with the top hose, in some sort of housing and do some rearranging of the water pipes etc..
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Are you guys experiencing cooling problems with the factory cooling system?. I'll might put the cams aside for now and get a custom alloy radiator and mandrel bent alloy piping to replace the factory radiator hoses.
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25DET head in stock condition VS 30ET Head in stock condition
Alf replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Why havent the mods stepped in? this kind of childish behavour doesnt belong here esp from a 26 yr old. Mr skyline has a Valid point and is entitled to his opinion. -
25DET head in stock condition VS 30ET Head in stock condition
Alf replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Off topic: I have been searching all over the gold coast, none of the tool shops I've been to have the flapper tool, anyone know who sells them?. -
25DET head in stock condition VS 30ET Head in stock condition
Alf replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The SOHC heads can be ported out more. With only one intake and exhaust valve for each cylinder, larger valves can be fitted than on twin cam heads and area in the port can be opened up more. It has less moving parts. But then again the SOHC heads are older than twin cam heads and are proned to cracking. The twin cam head is made from better alloy. If you compare a bare 25 and 26 head theres not alot of difference in the size of the ports etc.. so it's obvious that twin cam is better. Correct me if I'm wrong but a stock 20det head out flows a 30et head. Yes it seems that there is more R&D here in oz with the SOHC, it's alot cheaper to buy and easier to work with esp when there are so many VL's out there with SOHC heads. -
NO, the rods had bushes fitted to handle 1000hp plus for an rb30 when I bought them. I bought the rods through a mates contacts, he works at Gold Coast Porsche. I put the scat rod against the stock rod and compared it by eye.
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I'd be interested too. DnB the rods look identical to the ones I have, SCAT modified chev rods. The SCAT rod looks to be approx 1mm longer than the stocker. Mine require a thicker rod bearing which needs to be chamfered to fit. I havent had it fitted/measured yet.
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Spool up is correct. Blueprinting is simply machining it exactly to spec - or as close as possible, rather than accepting a part that is "near enough" because it falls into the tolerance band.
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Has anyone compared the price of valve springs to the tomei ones for the rb25 vct head?. ie 256 duration in and ex . SK: I noticed in a post u made a while ago, you said you use iskendarian valve springs, are these better quality/cheaper than tomei valve springs?.
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I need your thoughts on the below. Should the rb30 bottom end/ 25head need blueprinting? The engine is going to be making somwhere in the 600 flywheel hp mark, the bottom end has scat rods, arias forgies, acl race bearings, rb26 harmonic balancer, N1 oil pump, O ringed block, cyo'd/shot peened crank, ARP rb26 head stud kit and rb30 girdle bolts, plus the machining reqd. The s2 na block has done 240,000 and the insides are in good nick, even the standard nissan big end bearings have little wear. For the guys who haven't blueprinted their engines, how long has urs lasted?
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The engine in question is an rb30/25 built to handle 600 hp plus. The inlet manifold is factory atm. What do you guys think would be better gains for the $, an aftermarket intake manifold or a aftercooler (air-water cooler) near the throttle body? The air-water cooler I was looking at was a VORTECH one. A few of them to choose from: http://www.capa.com.au/vortech_performance_cooling.htm Has anyone had any experience with these kind of items?.
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Yes it's being done atm. I'm hearing alot of stories about them, i'd like to see hard evidence, cuts the bs out. Apart from that curiousity......:blah:
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There must be a way to identify a bare head by its casting number,marks,codes. I've started a thread on the subject showing what mine are http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=58720 If you guys have pics or any info on the head that u r using post it up so we can compare.
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I'm trying to identify whether my 25 head is turbo or not. I keep getting conflicting information on what's what and no one has been able to tell me how to indentify a bare head. Every manufacturer has a number or some code to distinguish between their parts. Does anyone know what the following mean? The pic below shows the front of the head. Going by how Nissan date their other skyline parts, the 10 would be october?, the 4 would be 1994? The I, I wouldn't have a clue...., the same I is also on the back of the head but on the inlet side. The pic below shows the exhaust side of the head. This I have no idea what it means.:confused: PS: if you guys have pics and or can get the numbers/letters of ur heads that would be great ie state what model, head etc.., A reference that could come in handy for us all.
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Is there a way of identifying cams when not in the engine? There are no markings on the cams besides the purple and orange markings which i would assume would be for inlet and exhaust. The valve springs are marked orange for the inlet. And pink for the exhaust. In regards to the engine builder it took me ages to find someone who is old school and has built RB30DET's before and has proof of building tough Rb's like IWIN (33 vspec 750rwhp). I'm not putting the head on till i see the differences with my own eyes.
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My appoligies for bringing up old stuff but I couldnt find any photos as most of the pics dont work anymore in older posts. My engine builder hasnt seen my head yet but he tells me that the rb25det head rear passenger's side water jacket sits out past the block, the na rb25 head doesnt. I'm still scratching my head how he came to that conclusion when my head doesn't have this problem. Now all kinds of thoughts are going through my head atm, do I have an NA head or are there variances in the 25 turbo heads, VVT is an obvious one (mines VVT) then I go on thinking do I have an na inlet manifold,cams and valve springs...:confused: The pic below is my bare head, the orange arrow is where i've been told the problem is. The complete top end came off a 33 gtst so I would assume it would be a turbo head. In the past replies SK and Joel have used na heads, what are the characteristics of the na cams on the new engine? any problems with reversion etc.... Cause if I'm stuck with na valve springs etc..:slap: it maybe time for tomei pon cams and stiffer springs.
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Are there different versions of the power FC for s1 and s2's? How can I tell?
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I'll be using a power FC with the s1 loom and s2 coils.