Penfold

Anyway, I'm getting my timing belt changed so I was wondering even if i dont get any adjustments would it be worth it to just put them in when I get the timing belt changed (+ill get em to up the timing a bit). Cheers, Penfold

& pics would be nice too

Yep, this hasnt been replied to in a while but I was chasing up: Glove box, cig lighter, boot lining. Any info?

i wanted the same thing, but the shopping centre ones sent me to Rechenberg Key people and they said I had to get the four digit cutting code (either from Nissan or from the door lock assembly). I bought one of those funky gtr key blanks. I was wondering if anyone else had similar experience or knows where to read it off the door lock. They were gonna charge me abou $80 to take off the door cover & look at the lock. Any ideas? Ive taken off the door trim before but woudlnt know where abouts to look on the lock itself

How rough a ride are these babies?

Hmm I thought it sounded the other way around. So have they got a T3 or T25 flange? Info would be good.

sherlock_nzl, can you please send the training manual to me as well [email protected] Wow, id even be interested in whatever r33 manual you had too & a working version of fast would be awesome CHeers, Penfold

apparenlty greddy blets are 10% stronger - still sounds like a bad deal for $180

Just wondering about people experience with install HKS (or whatever) cam gears. Unfortunatley, because I live in Bundy and dont have easy access to a dyno I was after some approximate settings. Obvisouly I was planning on dialing up the +1 intake & -3or-4 on exhaust but I was wondering how far I should retard the overall timing. Initally car was detonating slightly when i was running vortex etc (no 98 available) so I retarded it but now running on BP Ultimate so I was gonna bump it up again - but thought i would throw in some cam gears. But wanted approximate settings because I would be road tuning it. ECU is chipped & has 3" turbo back exhaust, CAI & Pods (just changed plugs). Any advice would be great particulalry someone with an rb26 who has done similar. Cheers, Penfold

is it worth getting like a greddy timing belt? there like $180 bucks.

I wound my timing back a little and it did this - surging & erratic for first 2 minutes of idling/driving. Gonna move it forward again & see if that fixes it.

do the GTR & nismo pumps drop straight in? or is there alot of mucking about like the bosch ones??

[email protected] cheers

If this will all fit a GTR-r33 then: ashtray, cigarette lighter & glove box Cheers, Penfold

Hrm going by part number looks like its an AFM for a Nissan Maxima: 1992-89 3.0L (VE30DE, VG30E) 181" Will this do the same job and get similar readings?

Just got this Z32 AFM (I think ) but it doesn't have that goldy sticker on it. It's an 80mm AFM & its got the Nissan logo but where the gold sticker usually goes its got a purple sticker with : 22680 16V00 A36-000 N60 8X21G JECS made in Japan Any ideas? Penfold

What boost controller do you have setup? (dont mind me didnt see the bleed valve)

Yeh, with regard to my problems (penfold) its definitely only for the first 3-4 minutes if the car has been left for several hours (+6 hours) - other than that it runs really really well. But I haven't installed my PFC yet - just a nismo tuned ECU but like I said I did retard the timing a little but I'm a bit of a newb & was unsure of how this (CAI & backed off timing) would effect things so greatly for that first 3 minutes of drivsing (but idleing is fine). Sorry again for stealing the attention but I though the two seemed related & was looking for answers.

Hey Judd, You checked your PM's recently??? Sorry to hijack

Yep, I too seem to be getting similar problems with my new CAI setup too but its only for the first 4 minutes or so when the engine is cold (see post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30533 ). However, my airflow seems to be fairly consitant: AFM Voltage: 1.05 volts when idleing 2.00 volts or so when cruising 3.00 volts when accelataring pretty hard 3.5-4.00 when kicking it in the guts I think the flow of the air should still be the same but because the air is colder initially (more dense) its getting too much oxygen. Though I'm not sure if the engine is overcompensating by adding more fuel??? I did wind back the timing a bit too (was detonating with crap fuel & nismo tuned ecu) so that could be affecting things too. But I can definitely concur with: Frequent jolting when accelatring rough ride & possibly more fuel consumption. For the first 3-4 minutes but then it seems to fix itself. For this period I am shortchangeing because when the revs get high its really shuddery. Also when the boost winds up I dont get the power I usually get either & sometimes the boost guage vibrates +/- on 0 bar (but I think this is due to the power shuddering). Again, only for the first 4 minutes. Anyway, when I get a new timing belt I'll install some cam gears & wind the timing backup & see how things go. With the powerfc I'd have thought it would be pretty easy to monitor AFR & injector duty. Anyway, sorry for hijacking the thread but it seems like a similar problem. Cheers, Penfold

Could this be causing my situation as well? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30533 Thanks

Yeh its a little strange - its only when the engine is cold. The psi definitely rises up (a little shakily) but theres a definite absense of power (my boost guage could read 0.5 bar & its only very slow & iffy power). But after it warms up (less than 5 minutes) it goes like a champion again - at 0.5 bar its definietly pushes you back in your seat. I guess maybes its worth advancing the time & an ECU reset???? Any clues before I take it in?

Yeh, I just got my GTR back from my mechanice. Just upgraded CAT & changed spark plugs & made a CAI & partition for my pods & decided to back timing back a little. Unfortunately when I first drive the car round for the first 3 minutes or so it runs pretty rough - surging & choking with constant appliaction of throttle. Whereas before it had really smooth power delivery & well after the first initial driving it runs really well. Any ideas? Its only when you first switch the car on of a morning or its been left sitting for about 10 hours - it doenst do it if it has been sitting for a couple of hours. Oh, dropped the timeing back a little because I had to run 96 octane for a couple of months but now got BP Ultimate so i will advance it again. I'm thinking that backing off the timing combined with the cold air intake is causing the problems (engine hasnt had a chance to heat up yet). Any ideas, Geoff

Just to let you QLD guys know that Bundaberg now has a petrol station with BP Ultimate (previously you had to drive to Childers or use Vortex). It's the one on Takalvan Street opposite Autobarn. Someone really should have an online map database of all the rural petrol stations which serve 98 octane so you can plan your cruises. Cheers, Penfold

How much trouble to mount the fuel system in a R33 GTR??