Penfold

Yeh, I just got my GTR back from my mechanice. Just upgraded CAT & changed spark plugs & made a CAI & partition for my pods & decided to back timing back a little. Unfortunately when I first drive the car round for the first 3 minutes or so it runs pretty rough - surging & choking with constant appliaction of throttle. Whereas before it had really smooth power delivery & well after the first initial driving it runs really well. Any ideas? Oh, dropped the timeing back a little because I had to run 96 octane for a couple of months but now got BP Ultimate so i will advance it again. Any ideas, Geoff

how easy is the 910 & 911 to fit compared to standard pump & 044

$2950

$2750

Any idea how much modification for an r33 gtr?

Hmm, after opening & shutting the door a few times, now it seems to work ok. But as it goes down is a bit "jarry" & when it goes up its "jarry" too. It's a little louder but when it hits the top of the door it makes a "GRRAAKD" type of noise as it slide sup & doenst stop properly. ? Any advice? new engine thingo for it

Whats the guy in Bundaberg's details? ie does he have a workshop etc?

standard is about 0.8 bar~ 11.5 psi r33 GTR is 0.84 bar ~ 12 psi But thats max so just make sure your at about 5000 rpm before you check it.

Heres another one: This is a rocker switch on my R33 GTR. It lights green at the top & orange at the button when lights, etc are on. http://home.austarnet.com.au/myra/thingo.JPG I've tried flicking it but cant work it out. Cheers, Penfold

Hmm, so what colour is it?? blue?? I guess this would fit a R33 GTR What kinda scuffing etc does it have underneath? Thanks, Geoff

Interested in the drivers side window winder thingo too. I think mines gone but illhave to wait till weekened to find out what exactly has gone. Also any of the boot lining would be handy. tah, Penfold

I think i might be in the same boat. I was driving home today & when i went to wind down it didnt move & it made a funny crunching/whiring kinda sound. Then the window stopped winding - so it wont go up or down. Now the window still makes the high pitched noise when you press the up & down buttons but it doesnt move anywhere. Any advice on removing the door fittings & recommendations on whats wrong would be good. I'll look at it on the weekend. Thanks Pefnold

erm I didnt think so I thought that HR31 RB20DET RB25 DE, Z31 VG30DET, K10 MA10S, EN13 CA16DE all required side feed injectors & the RB26 required top feed like the injectors here.

Ok, so how much for the z32 & timing belt?

How much you looking for the Z32? I take it the Powerfc is just for a r32 GTR & doenst come with HC? Anyway $70 for the cam cover.

Erm I think its probably a credit to the injectors physically supplying enough fuel more than anything else. Did we actually have a look at the fuel rail to check they were standard? Anywhose it with the standard injectors, I wouldnt mind finding out how exactly the wolf was squeezing the fuel out compared to tuning with a powerfc. Any ideas?

hehe i wouldnt exactly refer to gtr's & skylines as big muscle cars

Well i thought, 1 bar = 760 mm hg so 7(x100mmHG) = 0.92 bar or 13.5 psi I could be wrong though

well yeah so more friction & more heat would equal more losses through bearings & drive shafts

In reality its probably a combination of the two - something like the Duckworth-lewis formula in one-day cricket. The loss through the drive-train obviously varies between different car makes - where you compare a commodor to a skyline & indeed a gtr compared to a GTS - with different drivetrains. Also, any modifications will assist as well in raising the ratio - a nice well layout machine with big exhaust will loose less through the drive train than another. And on that topic, a newer car will probably be more efficient than an older car (as bits gradually decline & increased resistance - especially if not well oiled & maintained etc. So you can probably have some sort of guess but for any given car it will be a fixed loss through the drive-train + an adjustment factor ie say 30kw for the drivetrain but also say multiply it by 1.12 after that. Obviously if you've got a part in your drive-train that is a little inefficient then the more it turns, pulls, etc then more it will more power away. Anyhow it sounds reasonable to me - but feel free to tell me im wrong Cheers, Penfold

yep, emailed ya. cheers, geoff

pics would be great - the ones you got dont seem to work

pics of the boost controller to [email protected]

Any ideas on $$$ for the datalogit?

will this powerfc work with an r33 gtr?