SimonR32

nice power curve for 105.5kw

i would be about $20k unhappy seriously, thats a motor out, rebuild and reinstall job

the hate for this one is very strong nice parts, when u sell your car... ill buy it with a low ball offer im starting at 3k! you can counter if you like

couldnt say it better myself... run some whiteline (or whatever) cradle bushes set to traction and not much rear camber and you will have tons of grip i could load up my gtr with 575rwhp in second gear with 235 nangkangs and it would only wheel spin a little, but it squatted and gets the fcuk outta there

sorry my bad, i was reading the power in kw not hp... so quickly read power as boost and boost as power haha makes more sense now, power curve is very wierd though

please rearrange the following "told so i you" oops

dammit, if only i had thought of this i probably wouldnt have dropped engineering at uni... god it was boring of course you do!!! great minds think alike, hense our love for rb20's

i have a few questions! 1. was the ecu reset between each tune? 2. who set the boost control, 2 graphs went to 20psi... but the godzilla one goes right up to 32psi (thats big boost and drops back to 20psi) 3. what turbo/turbos is on that thing? "WHY SO LAGGY"

the people who designed this apparently own a wind tunnel its a good example of what to aim for

actually i believe the z's windscreen is at lower slope (angle) than a gtr, which means it would create less drag but actually more lift

you have got yourself a little confused here! cars (which generally have curved upper surfaces and flat under surfaces) act like a airfoil (wing)... but a airoil gives lift not downforce, so as your speed increases so does your lift!!! we then put on spoilers, rear diffusers, flat undertrays etc etc. to try and to try and create downforce. there are two ways of doing this, reducing the amount of lift (the best way but you will never get downforce by doing this only) and also by increasing negative lift (this works as well but puts more drag on a car than just reducing lift as you are increasing drag on the car twice, first with the original lift and then again when you create the negative lift to counteract the positive lift). All of that confusing enough? I'll try and lay it down a bit more... the aim of a undertray is to increase the air velocity and thus reduce the pressure (like you said) under the car and let things like spoilers still create downforce (not the whole upper side of the car, this will still be creating lift)... the only way to create negative downforce under a car would be to have the undertray as a reverse wing... but because the car is close to the ground this would actually not work as the air would increase in pressure as the undertray gets closer to the due to the volume of space reducing and actually create lift (would actually create more lift the lower the car got) a rear diffuser is designed to create lower pressure (a fixed amount of air travelling below the car at a constant temperature is then allowed a higher volume thus reducing the pressure) below say a rear wing creating negative lift and higher pressure will cause "downforce" a front splitter creates a huge high pressure zone from the car travelling through air being trapped above it thus creating drag and negative lift also remember you can't create lift or negative lift without creating drag, but if you have enough power to overcome the drag then the benefits outweigh (pardon the pun) the drawbacks. This is why we get to jetset around the world in planes its just simple physics and gravity using , but it can get confusing a understanding of pressure in direct relation to volume and Bernoulli's principle is a must as roy said, its very hard to explain without face to face with diagrams and hand gestures... if you want i might be able to do a diagram some time to try and explain the pressures put on a car body!!!

nissan uses 440cc injectors on a GTR, which is twice as much flow as a stock GTR needs...

137mph and 10.2! time to go back to low mounts

it's common knowledge that is his catch phrase, sorry for not being ignorant like yourself! wow it turns out you may just be a fvcking idiot i've only been posting on here for 5 years now and i still didnt know that happened when you type that, maybe its because im not a teenage douche handling the onset of puberty with more dollars than sense!

we usally refer to HKS fliters as rock catchers!!! because thats the only thing they filter out, everything else goes nom noms in the engine apexi are very good filters, i would consider k&n even better...

lots of good tuners to use around now days that you would have no problems with at all... its more of a question of not going to the few that try to push the boundaries too far or just simply dont know what they are doing!

sorry mate, it was on my old gtr... i just went down to the local K&N distributor and found a small one that was the right size

your pcv valve pulls air from you cam covers to your intake manifold under vaccum... this air is filled with oil this oil in the air lowers the octane of the fuel and can cause pinging = motor go bang id rather have oil go in my catch can that into my combustion chamber

haha, i meant skylinekid cause he says "flamin mongrel" a lot, i believe that is alf's famous one liner

are you alf from home and away?

lol more fun pm's, is this guy 12 or 13?

sent via pm hahahahahaha

you may not be a f**kin idiot but u seem to be a f**king wanker!

woops, just realised u cant see the k&n in that picture... its on the other side of the battery to the entry pipe

correct!!! here is my set up using a essential catch can from greenline.jp and i went and bought a k&n filter locally