B0oStEr

I was driving home from a cruise on the Gold Coast last Saturday night, well 3am Sunday morning. I was travelling behind my mate as we drove through a small town (50k zone) and there was this blue/white flash from a car parked on the side of the road. I think it was a small car, not a falcadore and there was no speed camera in use sign. The flash appeared to be a bar of superbright LEDs from behind/in front of the windscreen. It didn't flash my mate in the car in front and we were both doing 70kph but it did flash my mates travelling 10 mins behind us. Do you think it was the cops or was it some smartar5e playing with some kit he bought at Tandy?

I'm looking for an R32 GTSt front bar. I'm not sure what's available but I want one with a deeper opening than my stock '89 4door bar so that my FMIC gets more air.

Still looking.

How many types of front bar for the R32 GTSt were available from the factory? I want a different bar to the stock one that came on my 4door, to better fit my FMIC but don't want to go fiberglass. What options do I have? Name of type eg. early type M etc and pics would be great. Thanks

I'm looking at a white '87 aussie Silhouette. The guy that currently owns the car doesn't realise the car's potential and has been running it on regular ULP so it feels like something is holding it back (knock sensor?) He bought the car 4 years ago and hasn't done a thing to it except for routine maintenance. All mods are 7 years old and engineered and include R33 RB25 DET and 5 speed Front mounted Supra intercooler HR31 struts and brakes Koni strut inserts and shocks 2.5" exhaust Things I've noticed that need attention Factory tacho was never made to work with new motor. Oil pressure gauge very erratic (reads high and flickers) No boost gauge The main plug to the TPS isn't hooked up but the one on the wire is. Apart from this the car is very tidy for it's age but shows the usual r31 wear and tear on the interior. It drives very well and I'm sure it would pull harder with some Ultimate in the tank. What would it be worth and should I buy it?

My car was cutting out like this and it was a broken solder joint inside the AFM.

The problem was the airmass meter. We finally got it to play up while the car was hooked up to to a diagnostic scope that logged pulse width, airmass meter output, ignition, A/F ratio etc. When it started to play up the Airmass meter output dropped out. We cut the sealant and removed the cover. The connection to one of the pins had broken. A dob of solder and siliconed the cover back on and she's fixed.

For the R32 you'll need 3mm spacers on the front.

Thanks for the offer but I've got one of sorts. The valve I described is definately the Auxilary Air Control valve. It has nothing to do with blowby. It supplies additional air past the throttle during warmup. The fuel pressure was perfect so the pump is not the problem. The ECU diagnostic showed airmass meter and speed sensor faults. I checked the airmass meter plug and it was clean with no corrosion. Due to the problem being intermittent I think cleaning the airmass meter wouldn't help so what else could be wrong with it? Internal dry solder joint?

This problem keeps changing. The last couple of days I can hardly drive it anywhere without it stalling. Now at idle or cruise with no throttle it drops the revs to near stall then revs up to 1500 rpm or so then back to stall. It seems to have a mind of it's own. I thought I might have found the cause. I found that the AAC valve was broken. This is the valve that is mounted near the injectors not the one with the stepper motor at the rear of the plenum. It has a disc with a hole in it that is moved to close by a heated bimetal strip. I opened it up and found the pin the disc rotates on had fallen out so it passed extra air to the motor even after it reached operating temperature. I fixed it and started the motor. When the motor warmed the valve closed off and the revs dropped. I disconnected the plug from the stepper motor and screwed out the idle screw which had been screwed all the way in by the previous owner and set the idle at 675rpm, then I reconnected the stepper motor plug. The idle was a stable 675rpm for the first time since I bought the car. I took it for a test drive, excellent, could this have been the cause of the whole problem? No, the stalling thing started again the next time I drove it. Oh well, one down who knows how many to go? I'm going to put a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow.

This cutting out problem is getting worse. Now most of the time it happens just as I start to make boost. Usually I can restart it with the key before I come to a complete stop but a couple of times recently it wouldn't restart for five minutes or so. It's only a matter of time before I get stranded in the middle of a busy intersection :Oops: At least if it won't restart it should be easy to track the problem down. My other R32 only runs 7 PSI but this one runs 9 PSI. I'm not aware of any mods to account for this small difference. As it cuts out when coming on boost could this be part of the problem?

The Jun collar requires machining the nose of the crank.

I don't think the rear bars can be the same because the taillights are a different shape.

I know the R32 RB26 sometimes has oil pump drive problems that destroy the pump and crank if not fixed soon enough. I'm not 100% sure of the cause or if the problem applies to the RB20 but both have problems with the bolts coming loose. The R33 RB26 has a stronger oilpump drive. Jun make an adapter so you can use R33 pump on the R32 crank but I think that is only for the RB26.

Also budget for a new waterpump and check the tension of the oil pump bolts while it's apart.

I haven't mine apart yet but I think they need rebuilding because the pads are binding. I tried to push the pads back but the pistons were very tight. My DR30 calipers were tight like this and needed new pistons as there was rust under the chrome. Do R32 calipers have chromed steel or alloy pistons?

Get one from Raf in the group buys. I got mine from him a few weeks ago. Now they are even cheaper.

How do you know that your pump is on the way out? The factory oil pressure gauges are often dodgy. If the oil pressure is low on a proper gauge it could be loose oil pump bolts or worn big end and main bearings.

There are a couple of smaller wires running off the positive terminal that feed ignition etc. If these were dodgy but the main terminal was ok it could still start.

Do you know how much new pistons would cost if they are required?

I have an '89 4door that I bought in December that seems to have a similar problem. It runs fine, then suddenly cuts out. Length of running time doesn't seem to make a difference. It was doing it at idle or on the overrun but now it's missing and then cutting out as it starts to comes on boost but runs perfectly 99% of the time.

Oh yeah, I wasn't sure that was for. So the earth wire from the fuel pump goes to the ecu which switches earths via either the dropping resistor or a straight chassis earth? Is it just 2 speed? What tells the ECU to switch speeds?

The car is stock except for exhaust and turbo timer. All the dashlights come on when it stalls but I couldn't hear the fuelpump although it's normally very quiet anyway. The turbo timer is unlikely to cause this because none of the ignition wires were actually cut when it was fitted and all it does is join wires once the ignition is turned off. Someone told me it might be junk in the fuel tank getting stuck in the pickup and falling off when the engine stalls only to get sucked up again later causing it to stall again. It made sense but I don't know how so much crap would get into my tank. I've got to say my money is on it being fuel pump related although I think the pump itself is ok maybe something is dodgy in the grounding. Where is this dropping resistor located? What inputs does the ECU use to switch between fuelpump speeds?

Ok, this problem hasn't gone away. Occassionally it stalls at intersections and roundabouts and always at idle or on the overrun but today when I was giving it a bit it started missing as it came on boost then it just shut down. I managed to pull the car over to the edge of the road (no power steering) and it restarted first time and I drove home. Usually the car revs sweetly all the way to the redline. Could both problems be caused by the same thing? I need to fix this fast as it's bl**dy dangerous.

The calipers look great Roy. How much did Race Brakes charge you to rebuild the calipers? Is there a pic of the mounting bracket that you could post?