mistermeena

yeah we tried that already and did it for ages actually. It's as if no fluid is ever reaching the caliper, and the level doesnt drop in the resi either.

What do you mean by pointed up? As in are the calipers L & R on the correct sides? The nipples are at the top and pointed in and calipers are on the correct sides

So I had to replace my calipers because the fronts were leaking badly. I got a 2nd hand set and fitted them up no problems yesterday. So today I went to bleed the brakes (using the usual two man procedure) and the rears went fine - some air came out and the new fluid came through both sides so no problem at the back. But when we tried to bleed the front left we get basically nothing. We went for ages and never got more than a little air and fluid, but no substantial amount dropped through from the resi and the pedal goes straight to the floor. I blew air through the bleed nipple and it seems to be fine. Also tried swapping the nipple for the one on my old brakes. Removed the brake line from the caliper and get basically nothing from there either, just a bit of air and fluid but again nothing substantial. So do I have a blockage somewhere between the master and caliper? Or a problem with the master maybe? In either case what do I do about it? The old brakes seemed to work ok other than a slightly spongy pedal and the fairly obvious leaks. I expected this to be a quick job so now I'm stressed! oh and its a non-ABS r33 gtst

yeah there's no relay fitted for the fogs and I tried swapping the demister relay into that slot. I also don't have the factory switch on the indicator stalk. There is a random switch on the dash left of the steering wheel with a little green light on it (which doesn't light up) and seems to do nothing at all

Ok cheers guys so at least my lights are operating as they should...sort of lol. I had a feeling the car had been hit at the front but the rails are straight so i figured it wasn't too drastic. The fog lights don't work either but I haven't even started looking at that problem. So I guess the different rad support means that I cant ever change the headlights over to the nicer s2 coupe clear lenses then.

So a bit of reading has revealed that I actually have an s2 4 door front end like this:

it's a coupe sorry. From the outer edges in the parkers are there on the corners and working, then the mystery bulb that does nothing, then the main and high beam closest to grille. I agree that the bulb is so small it surely couldn't be anything to do with the main or high beam? 89cal the picture in your sig shows it I think, the section just visible in the bottom left - although mine are the diffused ones not nice clear lenses like yours edit more relevant info: I just realised an s1.5 should have an s1 front end but mine has an s2 front. So I'm assuming this problem is because the previous owner converted it. Does that make any difference to the headlight wiring?

Noticed that one of the plugs off my headlights is connected to nothing! It's the small bulb between the corner lights and the main bulb closest to grille. I still have working main beam and high beam, as well as working park lights, so when are the small middle lights supposed to come on? The main beam and high beam use only the bulbs closest to grille. Haven't had the car long and its still unregistered so just trying to nail this stuff down for rwc. No idea why these plugs are cut off or where they're supposed to go :| Here's a picture of the bulb and plug in case my description is retarded.

I'm not sure on the location/number of bolts sorry never done this type of wing. There's probably four though. The sealant stuff you describe under it will be a sort of rubbery double sided tape that sticks the wing down and stops it vibrating. It will be a total bitch to remove no doubt. So the paper trick confirmed that its coming from the wing mounts? For a quickfix option you could try getting the nuts off underneath the wing and squirting some silicone around them before refitting.

have you gotten in the boot yourself with a torch and someone hosing it outside? Yes it could easily come in around the bolts holding the wing down. Also rear window seal, boot seal, lights (which you've addressed). The mrs' Ford fairlane even had water leaking in around the key barrel for the boot - took me forever to figure that one out. ...and yes bolts and double sided tape holding it down

Yeah sweet thanks mate that's a bit of a relief lol. I had another poke around and I wondered if it might just be a noisy pulley bearing reverberating through the pipe.

Few dramas with my new skyline that I can't figure out. It's an r33 s1.5 gtst and my first turbo car. I've just changed the plugs and rocker gaskets, and compression tested, which all went well. Compression was very close to 180psi on all cyls so pretty happy with that So just started it up after doing all this and noticed a weird bubbling sound in the airbox. Quite sure the sound wasnt there before but could be wrong on that. I dunno how else to describe it, but its noticeable when i have my ear close to the air intake. I'm quite confident its not actually water boiling, just sort of sounds like that. Car isn't overheating or bubbling in the overflow etc. It seems to idle and rev quite well, though I notice an occasional pop from the exhaust once it gets up to temp. Any suggestions/help?

Digging up this old thread Can anyone clarify how the steering angle sensor works and if I can connect this to an s2 wheel somehow? Basically my s1 (airbag) wheel is completely stuffed, but I have a mint s2 wheel already (the one with the clear plastic shield behind the wheel). I'm not worried about the airbag not working I'll just remove the bulb or whatever, but I just need a decent stock looking wheel to get through a roadworthy and then I'll probably go to an aftermarket wheel anyway. So is there any way I can keep the hicas working with the s2 wheel? cheers.

Underdrive pulleys are generally for ball-tearing racecars...when you're trying to squeeze every last bit from a car that already has no interior, no aircon, no glass, and half the bolts it was built with.

Thanks for the offer Roy but I'm in Townsville QLD. Should be grabbing a used pair this week pretty cheap anyway as I need this sorted before roadworthy inspection

Nah didn't try to separate the two halves, nor tighten the bolts that join them - I could tell that wouldn't stop the leak anyway. Once I noticed it was leaking I just left it alone and based on advice given above, decided to just grab a used pair. I would happily attempt a rebuild if it was just the seized piston but I don't want to deal with splitting them open and whatever. I'm a bit surprised they (both fronts) leaked there actually. Have worked on lots of older cars with this design and never seen leaks there but anyway. Turns out r33 parts are plentiful...probably easier than sourcing parts for my gf's fairlane ghia actually

I've found a used pair locally at a good price so I'll go inspect them this week and hopefully they're all good. I'll keep hallite in mind though as I might eventually rebuild my shit ones as spares anyway

I'm sure they're repairable but in any case it's too expensive for me so I'll just have to try to find a decent used pair

So a local brake shop quoted anywhere from 180-220 per side, depending on condition of pistons. Looks like I'll be buying second hand :|

Yeah I'll get a price from the brake shop first if it's reasonable I'll just get it done professionally. I notice the rebuild kits on ebay only seem to cover the piston seals, and presumably wouldn't address the leaking join or seized piston?

Yeah I suspected as much. That's a bummer. I managed to get the old pads back in on that side. Car's not on the road yet so I'm not driving it anyway, but I guess that'll set me back a few weeks Thanks for advice.

I'm changing my pads and having massive dramas now. The other side went perfectly well, and I'm now stuck on the front left. I can't seem to compress one of the pistons at all. Is it possible for these to seize up or something? The other three pistons are pushed right back (I used a c clamp, as I have done with many cars in the past). While I'm at it I also noticed brake fluid seeping from the crack where the two halves of the caliper join - Could this be resolved by tightening the bolts that join the two halves together or is that a no-no? Thanks.

Yeah planning to clean it up its just red dust from up here. This is actually after I hosed it once the stuff was everywhere under the car My rwc guy isn't too picky, but if there's obviously something missing - like a bunch of vac lines with bolts in them - he might send me home. If I cant find a canister locally I might just try to slip it past him Thanks heaps for help guys. Hopefully on the road SOON

ok thanks mate. Where would the charcoal canister normally be located - up front near that open metal line? Any idea if its absence (or having blocked vac lines) is likely to be a problem for a roadworthy inspection? As for checking the stock bov, do I just check where the whole unit mounts to the flange as well as under the larger hose that runs back to inlet? One other random question that's bugging me: the radiator fan spins full-time - is this normal or shouldn't it be switched on temp? I read some threads saying they can seize up but mine still spins freely by hand when the engine is off

Hi all I'm trying to sort out some wayward vac lines in my engine bay. I've just bought the car and it has two bov's fitted, the factory one and a blitz one, and I'm trying to delete the blitz one and get the car through a roadworthy. From what I've read on here the factory one should suit my needs so I'll probably just leave the blitz one off. This is my first skyline, and in fact first turbo car so I'm flying blind a little here. The blitz bov has a line attached which runs back to the intake mani collector, to a fitting identified in the manual as "to canister". The factory bov appears to be correctly connected as far as I can tell. From the top of the throttle body there is a hose which is terminated with a bolt (visible under the Nissan logo in first pic) - although the fitting on the throttle body is visible in the manual, it's not identified for some reason so I'm wondering where this goes? Lastly there is a random metal line (second pic) next to the radiator which is not blocked or connected to anything. I tried to follow it and I THINK it runs along the rail and across the firewall then possibly down under the car. Can anyone identify this for me? Could this be the mysterious "to canister" line? Thanks.