mistermeena

So I changed my timing belt, tensioners and water pump but I was apparently not paying enough attention to the instructions and now I'm worried. Before I removed the belt, I only lined up the timing marks on the two cam pulleys up top and didn't pay attention to the mark on the crank. I was careful not to move anything, but the belt was hard to get on so now I'm worried that something might have moved. I haven't fired the motor yet and I don't want to until I know this is right. So any advice on what I should do? Is there anyway I can safely check that it's lined up correctly?

Mine is off the car at the moment and I don't feel any difference at all. Personally don't think it does much/anything - most of them are a fashion item

you need something to draw air through the rad when the car is stationary, and you also need the shroud that's on there. I just retained the clutch fan and factory shroud but you can make it work with electric thermos if that's what you want to do.

thanks mate.

My new front shocks arrived today. Part number is correct 341287 and KYB only list that number for front shocks "left & right". This is possibly a stupid question but I notice both shocks are marked with an "L" on the tubes (near the bracket). Does this indicate "left side", and are these shocks left/right specific? I assume not, but I'd appreciate if someone can confirm before I go to the trouble of pulling the old ones out.

I think the aac valve has an idle screw on it check this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

yeah I don't need 50k out of it just a few months. Cheers guys

Well yeah but that job's a bit of a pain and a at least a few hundred bucks since I'd want to do water pump etc while I'm at it - I'd like to spend that money elsewhere at the moment. Is the service life of the greddy belt 100k as well?

Pulled off the cover today to eyeball my timing belt and found this greddy one fitted. I have no idea how old it is as there's no stickers in the engine bay and I just bought the car recently. I can't see any cracks or splits around the edges or wear on the teeth, although there is that brown discoloration on the underside. Any opinions?

kyb shocks should be under $600 and get some standard springs 2nd hand, or king springs standard height.

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booster/master is abs model?

So i did the gravity bleed thing this morning and I now have working brakes, with seemingly good pedal feel. I dont know wtf was happening there, but I'll be getting my mechanic to check the brakes out for me anyway. cheers guys suggestions were very helpful.

Yeah the procedure is correct so I guess I'll have to start looking for a new master Warps: What I'm getting is maybe 2-3cm of fluid in the drain hose, then a big(ish) bubble, then another 2-3 cm of fluid. And it just goes on like that forever. I've been over all the lines there's no fluid leaking out anywhere and all the hoses and nipples are tight. Also, I've still got no pedal feel it goes right to the floor. If I pump the pedal with the nipple closed it goes slightly harder and stops at maybe 3/4 to the floor. I ended up running the car yesterday and I noticed that the idle drops slightly when I press the brake. Is this likely to be related to my problem? Does it suggest a faulty brake booster or master? It didn't have this problem before I changed the calipers

The thing that makes the ticking sound is the indicator relay. It will be located under the steering wheel to the right somewhere, possibly in the fuse panel - I'm not sure exactly where. Replace it

Well I'm stumped again. The problem on the front left seems to have resolved itself but now I keep getting air through the rear right. I put almost a whole bottle of fluid through the resi and still get big bubbles. This is really starting to get me down :|

Also someone suggested earlier to try this with the engine running so should I be doing that? The reason I havent tried that already is because the battery is dead and it's a bit of pain to jumpstart it where it's currently parked - I'd probably have to put it back on the ground and roll it back or maybe get a second set of jumper leads to extend the length. Having said that if having the car running will have a significant impact then I'll do it. Appreciate all the help guys I'm determined to have brakes!

I had already removed the rubber line from the caliper and found that I had the same problem at the line so I took that to mean the problem was the line not the caliper. Anyway I got stuck into it again today and strangely enough, the front left (the problem one) bled fine first go through the nipple. That worries me a bit, because really only clean fluid and air came out so I'm not sure if I've cleared a blockage or just dislodged it to somewhere else lol. After that I bled the front right again no problems, then bled the master and got a little air through that but it came good after a few pumps. I then went to the back left to start the whole process again and the back left went fine no air came out. The back right keeps giving me fluid and then air for some reason, even after we did it more than 20 times or so. Anyway it got dark so I'll have another crack at that one tomorrow and hopefully it gets there eventually.

new development: I gave up on the front left side and thought I'd try bleeding the front right just for laughs, and it worked. Front right seems to bleed fine and pumps good clean fluid out. So hopefully this proves my master is fine? And I'm thinking this suggests a blockage in the lines to the front left? If that's the case how do I deal with it can I remove the rubber line to left caliper and metal line from the master (to front left) and blow compressed air down it?

OK so I tried bleeding the rear left again and its fine. Fluid came out strong so I assume the master is ok

nah was careful to make sure the resi was topped up. Will try to bleed the rears again tomorrow and see what happens. So if I get nothing through the rears the outcome is replace master cyl?

Would it be the same bleed procedure on the master? hold the pedal down, crack it, close it, release pedal?

It's hard to know if the pistons are ok really, they were pretty tough to compress but I got the brakes of someone I know so I trust his word that they were in good working order when they came off his car. Also, the fact that I can't get a good stream of fluid out of the hose when it's disconnected from the caliper suggests that the problem is before the caliper anyway? Zebra: yes, there appears to be a bleed nipple on the side of the master. I didn't mess with it because I've never done that sort of thing before lol

this thingo:

No ABS. One random question I have though is why does the rubber hose go to a little block on the suspension, then come out an go into the caliper? i.e. what is the block for?