mistermeena

Is this ready to go straight into an r33 or does it require mods?

Because this one is free and im a tightarse lol. Theres also a headrest mount available for 40$ which looks ok. I agree that it needs to be slightly lower though as the rearview mirror blocks the shot a little

So i rigged up this simple, free incar mount for my gopro today and figured it was worth sharing. You will need: A drill; screwdrivers; the plastic base that your gopro came attached to in the box; About 20minutes Remove your interior light fitting. Grab the black base that your gopro was attached to in the box. Mark and drill two holes in the appropriate location. Mount it to the roof in place of the interior light. The plastic is quite soft so I suggest a couple of big washers and dont overtighten. Use the supplied mounts and arms to position the camera.

who made the swaybars? got pics?

cheers mate. pm bank details too and I'll reply with address

you willing to post the dump/front pipe to queensland 4814? if so I'll grab it

unfortunately I don't think there's any way to tell. Bought mine on ebay for $330 and assumed fakes at that price. Compared them to my original ones and they were physically identical in every way, and arrived in nissan boxes. Mine are still working fine but who knows

a little is fine but I'd avoid it. Just throw a rag over the coilpacks before you crack the line

I use kyb standard shocks and king spring lows. Bit of shopping around got me the lot for under 800. Sure I'd like it a bit lower but meh. I'm super happy for the price. Stiff but comfy enough on the street, and I ran the car at the track last weekend and loved it - bit of body roll but not as bad as I was expecting.

my A1RM's squeal a bit on the front, mainly when they're really hot from some hard braking. I haven't got any copper grease on the back of them though so was going to try that.

I have a slight notch going 1st-2nd (only when cold) and I think the redline lightweight shockproof has actually made it worse lol. I was going to try the yellow redline next time but would I be better off just using the nulon g70 addative instead?

^THIS. go to natrad they don't charge much for it. They pressure test the cooling system somehow

I used kyb shocks and king springs. All up cost me just over $750 including postage, which i think is pretty cheap to do shocks/springs with reputable brands. Sure it could be a little lower, but the ride is nice - stiff but not ridiculously hard like most cheap coils. Here's a link for cheap kyb's: https://www.niftyparts.com.au/index.php/searchfilter/index/result?_type=1&_category=451&_make=23&_year=1994&_model=2656&_engine=13341 They're also on ebay pretty cheaply too, though niftyparts was the best price I found.

I'm surprised that it even runs on a de computer! Fix that up first, then see where you're at with the rest of it. I assume you've done all the usual fluid & filter services?

do you mean the rubber part is coming away from the backing strip (the u-shaped hard bit)? if so just glue it back on with some adhesive silicone if it's just a small area. If it's heaps of it then reattaching it is a pain so go to clarke rubber and match it with what they've got. It's called pinchweld.

the only advantage is not carrying a spare. Other than that they're expensive, so spend your money on a better quality tyre instead. It's annoying in beemers etc where there's no well for a spare I don't even bother carrying a spare anymore unless I'm going on a roadtrip. Around town I'll just ring the missus or a mate

Got it running today and all seems well. Thanks all who helped

so finally had a chance to sort this out today. Lined up the bottom mark and confirmed cyl 1 was at the top, and found that the cam gears were each out by a tooth. We adjusted the cams to make it all line up and turned it over by hand through a few cycles and they continued to line up on every second pass so I think that's all ok now. I'm still a bit unsure about setting the tensioner. I left it finger tight while I turned the motor over 3 or 4 times, then tightened the nut on the tensioner with the motor back at tdc. Is that correct?

it was a repco branded belt kit, and the belt is marked goodyear

I don't think it would be 180 out because even though we didn't line up the bottom mark, we were still careful not to move anything during the process. I'm just concerned that something might have turned a tooth or two while struggling with putting the belt on.

nah not in sydney but thanks for the offer. regarding the tensioner...doesnt the spring on the back of it set the tension automatically?

ah yep so when cyl 1 is at tdc, the crank gear mark will be lined up with the notch on the oil pump? And if it's wrong on the cam gears I need to take the belt off and adjust them in the direction closest to making them line up? Seriously hope it all lines up lol

...by turning the crank gear in whichever direction is closest to making it line up?

Ok thanks. The car is in a mates driveway so I cant try this until monday. Just another quick question, what do I do if they don't line up?

Ok so I need to get cyl 1 to tdc on the compression stroke, and at that point the two marks on the cam pulleys should line up? What about the mark on the crank - should that line up with the notch cut out on the bottom side, or should it be at the 0deg timing mark on the belt cover? and if it turns easilly by hand (besides the resistance of compression) then the pistons arent hitting?