predator

nah.. got money probs at the moment.. things are getting done very slowly.. i get it back monday, might on the road in about 2 weeks

15mm measured just then for you..

who knows.. maybe their "mate", or even them has knocked off stuff from 20 cars over the last month..

now, now :flower:

yeah.. it at least has to be pointed out, even if no action is taken. Sucks when you get robbed

Well I don't think they are actually trying to sell it.. but "found it at the tip?" - that's about the weakest excuse I've heard. The worst bit is that they are completely ignorant to the fact that just having in their possession itself is a crime, if it is known or suspected stolen, whether they did it or not oh well..

shock absorbers have either gas or oil in them which gives them their absorbtion properties. Now any "hiss" you hear has to be gas escaping from somewhere. Once the gas is all gone it'll just slide up and down freely, either clunking on the bottom of the housing, or similar - but it won't be absorbing any bounce after that, which is their job. It may take a while, but it sounds like it's the first stages.

**** kids are stupid these days... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=64051

the other one doesn't look too bad to me... Does the horn work and things like that? $50 if you post?

Ok, I doubt anybody is going to answer this one, but I'll give it a shot.. My newish HR31 Passage, fine in most other respects, has got some major ass problems. Basically there is a very loud clunking from LHS rear wheel. The problem appears more pronounced when you get one back wheel off the ground during a 90deg turn (into a driveway, etc), makes a huge "clunk" and goes into spastic mode. I'll drive along after that, and the whole rear of the car will shudder, feels like the wheel is goinng to fall off (maybe it is.. ). Other times, it seems to sort itself out and go back to normal, but the rear goes into "minor spastic" mode over a bump, and clunks again for a tiny bit. The HICAS light will flash on during this, and might stay on once it goes spacco for a bit. Now... my suspects are either hosed diff (needs major shim? causing the axel to pop out nearly?).. although if it is the diff, then it does seem to turn ok for the most part, and LSD when on full boot when everything is working just like normal? I do have another R200 diff sitting around which I'll try eventually. The other is the HICAS itself is ****ed, going into a spastic and turning the rear wheels when you're trying to go straight. So is it more likely to be HICAS or diff related, or something else altogether? oh - and what does the little house looking thingo on the dash mean?? Mine is always on.

yeah, its probably munced itself nicely.. What I would do is keep stripping it so the nut slides off. If it's beyond hope its beyond hope so just get it off however you have to. Replacing the stud is not a difficult process once you dissembe things. The studs are about $2.50 each. You'll have to first take the disc off.. which will mean you will have to remove the calipers (again, easy) Which end is it? front or rear.

Sounds good.. $1200 to get your car to handle like a charm.. Sounds like a good deal to me The prices are about the same I was budgetting for. Probably similar setup to what I'll be going for. But I might opt for Koni's to save a bit of money.

when it starts clunking over bumps.. and/or bouncing up and down like a mofo, then it's no longer "cool"

Does somebody have a large photo of a fully intact RB20DET from the intake side (out of the car). I need to see which exact hose is leaking coolant. I can see it leaking from underneath. Its where it goes back into the block just near the oil pressure sender and a bit back from the alternator. I think it's the heater hose return, but not sure. I have the engine manuals in PDF, but useless as batshit for an overall diagram of the whole coolant flow system

cyrus is making a giant bong.. oh how cute

short shifter adds 50kw.. My bet is 150rwkw because you will be restricted by the stock ECU (as you havent mentioned any aftermarket) - what you using to tune up the motor?

butt-face

you can do the back-around b.s. with the coolers.. back to your standard intercooler pipe positioning in the engine bay.. I might try that on one of the cars - but bit of stuffing around... got to track down mandrel bends.. etc.

seems stupid that you're paying more for the actual "attachment kit" than the item you are attaching itself, if you know what I am saying. That is why I believe nexus still hasn't fitted his cooler that he has had, for oh, 12 months?

Col: the coolers are cheap, but the piping is the exxy bit. I can't find any cheap sources of piping kits around. Cheapest seems to be around $500 or so for the whole piping kit. I've got one of the hybrid copies sitting around, its decent enough quality.

yes, it does like to go "bang"

Sure the certificate may cost $150 bux.. it's about that here... but in SA do you need to install intrusion bars in each door? install a fuel restrictor cap, change all seatbelts, and the other minor things? Each of these items is several hundred dollars each.

I've recently got my R32 (stock as a rock at the moment), and it feels slower than any R33 I have ever been in. Not that I've been in too many "totally" stock R33 though. My Passage has a silvertop RB20DET and RB20 box and pulls pretty nicely though.. only real difference seems to the 3" exhaust, pod and 10psi..

The paint on the 32 is pretty decent, and if anything I don't want that resprayed for now - attention grabbed, blah, blah.. The HR31 though.. that would look horny with a good paintjob and truly something different Can't be too expensive to get somebody to paint successfully over white either. I've put in the "brain file" for later remberance.

do it.. test it my whole car if you like