predator

6. Let things dry for about 2 hours in the sun until its nice and hard. Probably best off leaving it overnight if you can. 7. Time to get out the wet & dry sandpaper again, and the bucket of water. Start with 120 or 240 grade paper to start with and that should really get the roughness out of it. Again be careful not to sand back too much more than the filler area itself, as you've have to touch that area up as well. You should gradually start feeling it getting smoother and smoother, and the main goal is to sand it back to the original level/curve of the bar. For the end parts you will probably want to use finer grade paper such as 800 or so to get that really smooth finish, although 1200 would probably be overkill. Run your finger over it, you shouldn't notice too much abnormal roughness or extra "lumpiness" from the rest of the bar now. You should be left with something resembling the following:

5. Start mixing the plastibond. Instructions are on the tub and its pretty easy. Just apply the right amount of hardener and Plastibond and start mixing using your spatula. Be careful that you only put a smidgen of hardener in. Depending on outside temperature, amount of hardener used, and other things will depend how quickly it starts to set. If it sets too quickly, it'll be impossible to apply properly and set on your mixing area before you've had a chance to blob it on. If it hardens as you're applying it , it also may not bond properly with the surrounding surfaces. This can be from less than 1 minute to 10 minutes or more depending on how much hardener you use. You probably want something around the 5-10 minute mark - this way it remains fairly gooey for about 5-10 minutes that should be plenty of time to apply it. Apply it liberally, trying to squeeze a fair bit into the hole (if you have one), this will set behind it, and add extra strength later. Try not to get it on any good paint, as it will basically stuff it even if you wipe it off quickly. Try not to get too much on areas that are outside the basic crack area, as its going to be a bitch to sand it all back the more you use. You're basically aiming for something like the last pic:

4. Here comes the fun part. Start digging away near the crack, flaking off any chips that look they're about to come off. Basically you want to remove any bits of surrounding fibregalss or chips of paint around the crack that look like they're weak or going to fall off. Can just use your fingers or a flathead screw driver. Now you're probably looking at the photo - going what the f.uck has he done? Its looking 5 times worse than before! Well yeah, true But getting rid of all the surrounding debris also gives a much better area to fill and more surface area for the filler to bond to. And once its filled, it will be totally new, and small miniature cracks left from the last incident can easily cause it to crack up later. Best to remove anything that isn't nice and solid and replace it with filler.

3. Ok, now to start. Grab a container of water, and some fairly course wet & dry sandpaper (any hardware store, the black paper).. around 200gritt or so to start. Just start sanding the crack area, wetting the sandpaper now and then. Be careful that you don't "overshoot" too much and sand back a perfectly good paintjob.. even if you don't sand it right back you'll take the shine off it. If you're just using touchup paint (see later) you'll have to go over it with that, and its nowhere near as good as proper paint. Keep going until you basically get it all smooth to the touch, and back to the fibreglass itself. You can use some lighter grades (say 800) of sandpaper if you like to get the smoother finish, but not so important here. You should be left with something that looks like the last pic. Nice and smoothed back. You can see the old filler in there too (the yellowish stuff). Once you sand it all back you should have a better idea of the full extent of the damage and often smaller micro-cracks will become visible. Like in this shot, you can see how when I actually pull like shown, you can see how it comes apart there (and this also goes underneath).

2. Here is what you'll need to fix it. I've used Selly's Plastibond here. I got mine from Kmart for about $15, or probably any hardware store. Seems to be pretty heavy duty, and that is what its specifically designed for so I decided to go with that. You'll also need a scraper. Plastic ones are cheap and you can throw em away - otherwise just buy a thin metal one for $5 or so. The other method would be to use Fibreglass resin and hardener. You can follow a similar method using that. I've used that previously, but couldn't be bothered stuffing with that in this case. That sort of stuff is probably better in combination with fibreglass mats (if you've ever worked with fibreglass you'll know what i mean) anyway, to give its full strength. To be honest I'm not sure which would be stronger. I just was banking on Plastibond being a specific filler, whereas fibreglass+resin is for other uses.

How to repair a front bar or other fibreglass cracks This guide shows you how to repair minor cracks in a fibreglass (or probably plastic) frontbar, sideskirts, or the like. Wrote it a while ago actually, just for some reason forgot to put it up....Here 'tis.. 1. Here you can see the crack. Doesn't look major but left unfilled eventually will just keep spreading upwards, causing further damage. In this case it also extends under the bar right to the end - the result of what cracked it in the first place. You can see its been repaired previously by me. Maybe looks a bit “rough” even when it wasn't cracked, but from 1-2 metres away you probably would spot it. And before you go “the last job musta been crap, therefore it cracked again” .... That's not really why,.. going at 100km/hr and bottoming out not much is going to save it :wassup:

The full thread on how to do this may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=44477

he's in china.. this is a stupid thread if u don't post your state.. even so its probably a stupid thread

.. i have the scary belief that most people that don't drive anything customised or interesting are boring people

your drag strip is concrete? hmm.. hard to tell from the vids.. just bouncing off the rev limiter probably chokes the car a bit after launch wouldn't it? I think one launch in your vid was a low 2.x time which is not too bad.. should be able to get you a mid-13 from what i see from the SAU list if everything else is right. What types of modifications dso you have on your car? Doesn't really seem to be taking off that quickly after the launch really, i think the mid-range is letting you down. What sort of tune has it had? do u have a dyno sheet? Maybe its just building too much power up top-end and not enough down low-mid end?

erm... no

But the law can vary from state to state on even such things as pods, etc?? Say i had an engineered car which was engineered for one state, i thought that would mean that it may not be legally engineered in the other state? and if you transferred a car from one state to another you had to get the engineers redone in that state? For instance, in Victoria I had the full EPA test check my car over with an aftermarket FMIC, and exhaust and they said "no worries" even pointing these out. Did the noise test and polutions test and was able to drive out. I know in other states unless u obtain a full emissions test those things are not legal at all like you say. I always thought that the registration meant that the vehicle had to abide by the standards of the registration state, not the state you're in. License issues and road rules though are a different thing. I do know that when cops see the plate they generally go the other way. I know for me i've had cops hightail it right to my ass, then seen the plates and quickly changed their mind. Not a good idea drawing attention to yourself though, guess what happened, happened just because of that.

well he probably WAS trying to do the right thing and make it all neat for you.. pitty it was just the wrong exhaust

crap... just tell him to go fix it.. unless u asked for the work specifically to be done, they shouldn't have done it.

how much would you be looking at for one of those? lol - i like the rocker covers.. they'll look like they're made out of wood in that photo top mount cooler.. interesting.

i've replaced the air with "all new and improved" air .. and the box is still available.. any offers?

i'm up for a set.. missed out on the last batch.. but should have some moula now.. ricknismo: the price, etc in here somewhere

yeah... the 400R bar may be common, but its got praticalities... time to wind the boost up eh

http://darkhalf.r31skylineclub.com has it all.. and more.. but seeing as the servers are so reliable on there its down right now..

was it in your bed?

so is james car ok ?? there would have been nothing worse if he got his back after all the work and something happened to his car ..

got a car like that? move states...

yeah.. bitching.. i'm almost glad i've been staying at home lately. Bad shit can't happen at home (unless the roof falls on your head)

man.. why has everything gone to shit lately

yeah i'm paying $125.. plus about $60 petrol at the moment a week suxors.. wanna sub-let me @ $25/week ?