SECURITY

if you look for it, its out there.

sweet as

line and m3 are mine, the civic was a mates car.

if you're looking for a step-by-step guide then i would suggest you keep away from your engine completely. BUT.. the workshop manual has info with pics on how to disassemble and assemble parts, and each part is set out in the order they need to be done. i.e. engine removal, then head removal/disassembly/assebly, same with the block and other parts around the engine... as well as clearances and how to check them.

yeah you know what, that makes sence. why risk farking my turbo? if it fails in the line of duty then so be it, but if it fails from me running it in a way where i wouldnt usually, then whats the point?

i've got an safc2 which was tuned. from my knowledge about them they correct fuel at SET rpm points, not 'when the turbo kicks in'. someone correct me if im wrong.

im sure the auto will be up to it. have faith brother!

both sold. cheers.

i took the car out for a bit of a hammer last night, 10psi is the lowest my boost controller will let me boost. the car feels pretty good, boost comes in nice and strong, and because im running so rich from 2500rpm (when stocky would start spooling), the turbo kicks in at around 3700rpm. im pretty sure with a good tune it will kick in a bit earlier.

1 sold!!

it wasnt done intentionally anyway. he fluked the absolute f**k out of that situation.

ive got 2 D820's that me and my brother got for christmas, we're quite happy with the phones we have so we're selling off these. price is $300 which is a hell of a lot cheaper than the shops or ebay. they are still sealed in the box. a few specs i ripped off a site: * Stereo MP3 Player with dual speakers * Built-in 1.3 megapixel rotating camera with 4x digital zoom * MPEG video recording and playback * Up to 262k colour display * MP3 and MIDI ringtones * 73MB internal memory * Great mobile coverage with Telstra, city and in selected overseas destinations (Quad Band) * Bluetooth wireless technology capability * Supports Java These phones are NOT locked to any network. Id prefer pickup in sydney, but will post at buyer's expense. ill grab some pics soon. call on 0431130178 or just pm cheers SOLD!

you could get away with yourself if you've got access to some decent tools. spraying it is going to be the hard part, if you want it to match you'll need to sand back all of the clear, primer the damaged section, paint and trying to blend with the rest of the paint, then re-clear the whole bar. you could get away without rubbing back the clear, but the new paint might not match the rest of the bar.

i hadnt thought about it Paul but i might actually do that, last thing i want is bearing failure while im at the drags or on a track. but im sure the turbo will be up to it, it hasnt shown any sign of weakness.

sorry i couldnt make it guys, i ended up finishing up at 1am.

im going to run around 7-8psi (well, the lowst i can), when i get a new afm ill go get it tuned. lag doesnt seem too bad, but without a boost controller i dont want to give it at all to find out.

i finished up at around 1am, took a nice 1hr long shower then went for a drive. James, we'll make a day of it mate you bring the booz

the important part.. the pics: i was lucky enough to score an 0b6 vg30 exhaust housing which is the largest housing they come in. looking at the difference in wheel sizes, it makes my pants all tingly. the car sounds a bit meaner. i havent boosted it at all yet because my little ball bearing inside my turbotech boost controller disappeared when i accidently opened it all the way when trying to turn down the boost. but i still took it for a drive and it feels good even though i couldnt boost it . i thought the drilling to 6mm would effect oil pressure, but it didnt at all. all temps are fine too.

got my turbo today. i ended up installing it at night with my house's sensor lights, a LED light and a mate always walking around to get the sensors on. it took me around 3hrs, it was farking dark and i smoke alot. the order i did it was: (after fitting actuator and oil drain pipe). -line up the dump pipe and put the nuts and bolts in but dont fully tighten -sit the oil drain pipe into its position and nip it up but make sure you've got a little bit of movement -fit the water line that comes from the engine side of the turbo -bolt the turbo into place onto the manifold, do all of the bolts up tightly before starting on the oil feed line. -line up the oil feed line and the water line on the other side and tighten -go back and double check everythings tight. -make sure you do an oil change + top up your coolant before starting your car. -then wack all your piping back on. when i was turmed the car on for the first time i unplugged my CAS, let the motor kick over to build up oil pressure then once it did i plugged it back in and started it then let it run for 10mins as Aaron instructed. look out for leaks etc so be ready to turn the car off, best to disable the turbo timer for the first few starts. p.s. its 4am, im sure ive missed something but ill edit when i get some sleep.

its probably mould or something similar. use EASY OFF BAM (not sure how this will go with your paint so be careful if you're actually going to use it)

*RE-EDITED BY SECUR1TY*

is anyone else worried that the ac compressor is bolted to the block, and the noise could be a spun bearing? i could be wrong (i hope i am), but get that belt off ASAP so you dont do any more damage if it is a bottom end problem.

thats why you keep your receipt and if the bitch leaks you take it back. the crank seal is a bit of a bitch to get to. im not sure if your oil pump has to come off as i replaced my oil pump with an N1 pump which came with a new seal (which was connected to it). at least do your cam seals.

congrats mate!!

what ever happened to the syd-gong cruises during the day? p.s. i dont feel like getting defected.