SECURITY

so does anyone know the best way to run the cooler for a transmission?

got the AC condensor?

i got in before you mate. sorry

yeah it does. it'll reach around 120psi, which is the 8 (bar) in the standard gauge.

thanks for that guys. i'll use #1 with the reversed flow for my engine oil cooler. what about the trans cooler? what kind of psi would it see?

just so i know.. are you allowed to put a silencer on the exhaust when you do the EPA db test?

i've got an oil cooler kit ready to install and a tranny cooler kit on its way. my problem is choosing which way to face the cores to get the best flow/cooling effect. my car is an auto r33 gtst. i've really only got 3 options which ive drawn up to stop any confusion of what i'm talking about (sorry about my dodgyness, its 3:20am). these are my thoughts on each option. i dont know how much pressure is inside the trans system so bear with me. #1 will make the oil flow too quickly out of the core because of gravity + pressure, plus i dont think the trans oil will flow through the entire 19rows, it may mainly use the first 10 because of the low pressure in the system. #2 might be ok as the oil will spend more time in the cooler as well as utilise the entire core. but i also think that the trans cooler will drop in pressure as its trying to push the oil out against gravity. #3 im not too fond of. pretty much the same reason as #1. i've seen installs using all 3 directions and im really not sure which one is the best, or even if my ideas are right, thats why ive come to you guys the engine oil cooler should be fine to use #2 with as even on idle it has around 30psi of pressure, so it will utilise the entire core as well as have enough psi to get the oil flowing, whereas the transmission cooler has less pressure so im not too sure about it. this probably isnt a huge deal to alot of you guys but its been playing in my mind for a few hrs.

can you get me a price on the OEM radiator hoses?

nah they dont need replacing, plus it isnt a dodgy fix if you're cleaning the inside of the coil packs with a dremil or steel wool. over time they get a build up of crap inside them. this stops the route to the spark plug from being the shortest path to earth (which is how electricity behaves) as the build-up of crap is stopping the coils conduct with the spring properly under load. just clean out the shit inside it and you'll notice a huge difference. make sure you do it carefully though. i did mine at around the beginning of last year and they were good till last december when i took my car off the road for blowing #6. and im sure they'll be fine for another few years. i even took the tape off when i did it and they worked just as well.. no missfire for a year. heres what they look like before (not my coil packs): and these are my coil packs after cleaning them:

you know you wanted my 19s mona.. i know it was you who tried to jack my car up for them mmmk.

do you guys have silicone radiator hoses for r33's to go with these?

once you buy into turbo cars you have no right to bitch about petrol consumption. only about the shit prices these days.. makes me want to jack a petrol tanker and hide it in my garage.

interested in something around the 800-900 mark. pm me with what you can get mate.

if theyre too far apart on higher boost the spark may get blown out by the force of the air entering the combustion chamber. if the gap is smaller, the spark will have more of a chance of detonating the air/fuel at the right time as the spark has a smaller distance to travel. a con of having a smaller gap is the spark wont be as powerful as a spark gapped at 1.1mm. this is why people buy splitfire coil packs and make their gap larger than the .8 that is recommended with standard coil packs. hope that makes sence

look into everything else then.

i'd like one posted to syd. are these available for immediate post?

its probably your coil packs. its a common problem in the r33's. take them out and get the coil packs cleaned on the inside with some steel wool till theyre all nice and shiney on the inside. its either that or your spark plug gap is too big (although 1.1mm should be fine on standard boost).

most common: o2 sensor, leak in the fuel tank, dodgy fuel pump (filter), clogged injectors least common (but still possible): leak in the fuel lines, leak at the fuel filter, hoses might not be tight enough to hold the fuel pressure. things like that.. i saw a thread about a leak in the fuel tank floating about a while ago, search and you should find it. get your fuel pressure tested too.

any idea if the condensor will fit an r33 gts-t?

it wont work if you take them out and test them. as the current has nowhere else to go but to the thing your testing it with, where if its in your motor, you'd see it hitting your head. thats if its your coils.. it could be your CAS, afm's etc. anything to do with your timing.. its really just a process of elimination. clean the inside of your coils with some steel wool or lightly with a dremil drill and see how you go. just for comparison.. my plugs are gapped at .65.

its your level sender... just type in fuel level sender in search. it should come up.

try changing the oil pressure switch. it should cost much from nissan. do not mess with oil pressure, i.e. hoping the problem will go away. or better yet, get an aftermarket oil pressure tester/gauge. these usually come with their own sensors which is what i'll be running on my car once its back on the road.

im in if my cars on the road.

damn.. and i was hoping to run 11's with magnets stuck all over my car

sexyest colour i've seen on an r33 pav! goodluck with the sale mate