SECURITY

try these guys... http://www.deatschwerks.com/skyline/skyline-1993-98

they dont come in side feed mate, the ones i got are top feed (which is why they are cheaper). i had to buy a new 14mm fuel rail to suit.

any idea if the mirrors will fit on an r33 gtst?

ive just converted my auto (shit, just realised my sig is no longer true!) and the difference is MASSIVE. at WOT in the auto with 1st and 2nd gear having full traction to 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear having no traction. you can definitely have more fun in a manual, its much more responsive than an auto. you can have fun in an auto - but more so in a manual. auto is much better for drags (most of the sub 9 sec cars are auto - obviously not stock though). manual is better at everything else. the new semi-automatics you see in the more modern supercars are getting much more common and with the rev matching function (like in the 370z) they would be better for track work, but personally if i had a choice between the ~300k supercars i'd get the audi R8 because of the manual gearbox. paddle shifters are for the gays. where has the racing feel gone??

cranking is when your motor is actually turning, pre start. you need to tell us if its turning or not. if its clicking and nothing sounds like its turning then your starter starter motor may not be engaging. did you put the ~3mm plate between the gearbox and the motor back on?

yep

sweet - i just made my order. thanks fellas.

thanks for the info - at least they look reliable. im getting the top feed with an aftermarket fuel rail/FPR to suit. you sound like you've got the 60lb which are 10.5 or 11mm. i might order them in, they seem good enough.

im looking for some bigger injectors. the ones that look the best to me are the 80lb siemens injectors. they flow something like 80lb/hr @43 psi = 875cc. theyre high impedence and look the goods. ive gotten the approval from a few tuners. and theyre around $350 for a set of 6. has anyone had any experience with these? can anyone confirm that they're 14mm? cheers

that hose should cost around $70-80 from pirtek and enzed. you can also replace the hose yourself.

its only power steering. disconnect the belt then no pressure will build up. you'll just have to drive it with the steering feeling heavy. that pipe will probably leak. replace the entire thing with pressure hose. as stated, get it made up or even get a 2nd hand rb30 power steering pump fluid feed hose.

ive got a fujitsu plasma screen id sell to the club for $100. its 42". its heavy (around 50kg) and needs a digital set top box as its only a screen - not a tv. has 1 dead pixel that you dont notice at all. comes with a remote. no stand. sounds like a heap of shit but actually works really well. edit: ill also be demolishing a few houses soon - you are more than welcome to check out wardrobes, shelves, kitchen etc etc that you may be interested in.

93 r32's have the r33 gtst crank in them i think. they dont have the oil pump problem that the others do - but they will still send all of the oil into the head. some guys have gotten away with filling 500-700ml over the fill line on the dip stick but this is just a band-aid fix. also he says its got minor paint imperfections and to be expected of a 20yr old car - the paint looks new. i'd be looking for obvious damage. check for welding around the struts front and rear, inside the guards, in the boot, condition of radiator support as well as the chassis itself.

if its not plugs then its your coil packs. ask a local perth SAU member if you can swap over splitfire coil packs (make sure its a series 2 as well) to test your problem.

Firstly, you don't insulate the stem. It's the actual coil pack unit that earths out. Try some known working packs and see how you go

my intake pipe must've been shagged. it was sucking closed at just over 200kw.

i speak the truth.

1 - exhaust 2 - steel intake pipe (no point in having power when the stock one sucks closed) 3 - coil packs (standard ones tend to fail = crappy power delivery) 4 - front mount 5 - vipec ecu (which has a built-in boost controller so its a 2 in 1 mod) with a tune the reason why i didnt put a pod is because the standard airbox does a good enough job for that power level. 5 is a shit number though.

i see your problem.... you're missing around 1000cc of engine capacity.

and just because you havent done it that way, doesnt mean it wouldnt work. like i said, your results arent going to be at OT but you can still check if they are within spec to a certain point. i mean if you're getting 90psi from one, then 70 from another using that method then you will know if its rooted or not.

if you knew how to do a compression test you would know that you only need 5 revolutions to get a result. obviously the quicker you do it the better, but it can be done (i've done it) and you can get a reliable result. keep in mind you will not get a OT reading, but you are only looking to see that the cylinders are within 10psi of each other.

long breaker bar will give you the leverage you need to turn the motor at cranking speed - or thereabouts.

to do a compression test i managed to get around 70psi from turning the crank bolt by using a rachet while the motor was on the ground. i suggest getting a long breaker bar and try turning it. you need to get 5 uninterrupted revolutions to get a decent reading. you wont get a proper reading because the engine wont be at OT but it will give you a good indication on how even the cylinders are holding compression. for the leak down, you can lock the cylinder at top dead centre (dont forget, each cyl has to be at TDC when testing it) by holding a breaker bar on the crank bolt. but because it will be at TDC the chances of it turning arent that great.

That could be an AAC valve issue rather than ecu relayed. Good thing is you can start a thread on the vipec forums and ray hall himself will give you a solution.

p.s. conversion done. my hands hurt. eastern creek next wednesday anyone?