fikemoo

Appreciate the replys guys, sounds fairly common then just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything obvious

Hi apologies it is a RB25 turbo manifold, i test fitted the new replacement gasket and that fits as you would expect so the issue certainly is with the manifold itself

Hi guys, due to a change of plans with my build I've reverted back to the factory exhaust manifold. Trying to fit it up today it seemed to really struggle getting over the exhaust studs, I have changed them so they are all brand new studs but I don't imagine that would be the issue. I'm sure it wasn't that tight to remove (although it was taken off a while ago) any advice would be greatly appreciated. Mike

Hi guys I'm from the UK and imported a RB30 over for my s13 build. And with the RB30 being Aussie based I struggle sometimes for parts I posted up not to long ago about the part number for the thermostat housing and you guys came through so im hoping you can help me again I'm after the part number for the harmonic balancer. My engine came from a r31 skyline and has a 2 piece balancer (the power steering pulley unbolts) not sure if other vehicles with the RB30 have that also Any help would be great thanks

Pm'd thanks mate

hi guys sorry to dig up and old post but i dont suppose anybody has the file for the crank trigger bracket, im currently converting over to a link ecu and would like to use a trigger system and i fancy building my own rather than paying the mental prices out there thanks mike

Well done that man. Thankyou very much. That's exactly what I need

I'm in the UK but willing to pay for postage ofc. And the only problem I'm finding with non oem ones is the main flange is to thick which will fowl on the bolts on the coolant tube under the intake

Hi guys looking to find out the part number of the rb30 thermostat housing. I know there are billet replacements avilable or I could use a rb25 one etc etc but unfortunately due to my intake manifold setup it has to be oem rb30 one. Here's a pic: http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/595955d3912f7/20170702_190030.jpg?

Hi thanks for your reply you are correct if you want to make a rb24 and you can make a rb23 using the rb25 crank using the 4agz pistons. I did my own measuring and calculations regarding using the rb20 pistons with the rb25 rods and pistons and due to the difference in pin height between pistons it would require a custom piston and it would make a rb21

Hi thanks for getting back to me that's the information I've been trying to gather. As far from what I've seen all three engines share the same rod length so the differences have to be in the pin height so in theory 20 pistons with a 25 crank won't work unless somebody can clarify and share any info they have

Hello guys just a quick question I have looked through the various topics that already exist and I couldn't seem to find a straight answer. I have a rb30 which my rb25 head will be placed on to. So I am now left with a rb25 bottom end. I've just put a rb20 in a bmw e36 so as I have the parts laying around I thought about putting the rb25 internals in the rb20 I know the pistons are way to big so the question is what pistons can you use. Can a combo of rb25 crank rods and rb20 pistons be used as I'd rather not bore the rb20 block Thanks for any help/advice mike

No problem matey. In regards to the lines. As I've put a rb26 intake on a rb25 head. I've only put the lines that need to go back on so the idle control valve stuff. Only other lines are to accessories so fuel pressure regulator. Boost gauge etc. Everything else is gone

I posted up about this not to long ago and got some pretty good info from the guys on here and from another thread (forgotten the op's name) you can get rid of the cold start valve but the idle control valve needs to be kept and also what ecu you run will be a deciding factor

Hi sorry for the delayed response I haven't been able to log in to sau on Tapatalk for some reason. I'm ideally looking to gain the extra height of the rb30 block. So atleast 38mm. The problem I'm finding is the sump will hit the steering rack before I can lower it the required ammount

Hi thankyou for the reply I had seen this combination before. Do the engine mounts lower the engine that much then? As im already using the r32 stuff and didn't think the r32 engine mounts were that big to begin with. I also found this thread: https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/the-definitive-nissan-crossmember-thread.243198/ which was quite interesting and when it comes to the crossmember itself it would appear the r33 crossmember sits the lowest. But this doesn't take in to consideration the size of the engine mounts. Thanks again mike

Hello guys I know there are a few topics on this but no definite answer was given. I currently have a rb25 in my s13 on a r32 gtst crossmember and engine mounts and bonnet clearance is pretty tight as is. Now the rb30 engine is taller and will definitely fowl on the bonnet. Is the rb30 38mm taller or 30mm taller as I have been told both? And from the other topics I've seen the r32 crossmember is the lowest crossmember you can use. The problem I'm finding is if I lower the engine using the mounts the sump is going to fowl on the steering rack before I can get it low enough. Would using the s13 crossmember be better? Is it lower than a r32 one? Thankyou for any help that c an be given on this subject Mike

After doing some research it appears it does feed the front cam lobe so this kit doesn't create a feed for the lobe if you were building a rb30. It's more designed for people using a rb26 intake on a rb25

So the vct oil feed that you block on the rb25 head doesn't only feed the variable cam it also feeds the cam journals?

I thought the done thing was 26 headgasket and make sure the oil gallery in the 25 head was blocked off. I'm now worried ad I'm in the process of doing mine lol

I looked at buying a z32 one from conceptzperformance as they were the only place I could find them and nissan said that the part doesn't exist anymore. The guy was very helpful but on nissan fast they were listed as different product codes so no bueno. I ended up ordering one directly for japan

I just got the aem smart coils for my rb. They have been well proven to stupid high power and boost. Nearest thing to cdi ignition without needing a cdi unit. And for around £50 a coil you can't complain http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/585aeba725647/20161028_170501.jpg?

Yes of course but I was lead to believe it's due to the lack of stenghtening in the block. Compared again the rb26 Thanks for the reply matey

I thought the rb30 block didn't like revving past 7000-7500 unless messed with?

Thankyou for the reply mate again very useful. I had a look and it seems I have done the same concept that they have used: Now what I'm a slightly confused about is I believed that specific oil gallery in the rb25 block and head didn't just feed the vct. Hence why people tap into the head on a rb30 conversion so to oil back in to that gallery. Where using my own (or forged performances setup) you can see you have to reproduce a male version of the solenoid: And as you can see it only send oils straight to the cam to advance/retard the cam it bypasses the gallery and the chamber the oil gallery feeds so if that did feed anything else it would no longer have oil