fikemoo

Ok thankyou for the replay mate. My next question is I'm running the solenoid externally due to using a rb26 intake manifold. my pressure feed I'll run an3 to the solenoid. Would I still run an3 from the solenoid to the cam? I've attached this photo of a guy who did it in America but from the looks of it he used a larger line from the solenoid whether that is correct I don't know. Sorry I know the picture is pants quality

Hi guys sorry to ask about this as I thought I had all the information needed about the rb25 head on a rb30 block but I stumbled across a thread on here where somebody stated that you had to restrict the new external feed for the oil. is this true? As I don't see why as the oil going through the solenoid is restricted by the solenoid itself because of the holes it feeds through. And the rb30 doch does not meti9n anything about a restrictor in the vct feed. I know about restrictor in the block for the head feeds but not the vct. Any comments would be great

It's m18 x 1.5 if anybody was interested

The standard turbo is a T3 flange so the turbo will bolt up in factory position providing you haven't got a special rear housing like a tial one. The downpipe will need to be modified to match the v band flange rather than the garrett 5 bolt pattern. Then custom air intake and intercooler pipe work. I'd imagine you can make the standard water lines work with a slight bit of tweaking oil feed may need to be a custom braided line

Hi guys does anybody know what the thread size and pitch is of the vct solenoid on the rb25. I'm making my relocation kit due to me running rb26 intake manifold and itbs Thanks mike

Hi guys my rb30 lands in the uk today and i should have it to my door within a week so ive been looking at engine mounts as room is tight in my engine bay with the rb25 as it is let alone with the 38mm higher rb30, ive sourced some cortina engine mounts which have a total height/thickness is 36mm, does anybody know the height of the standard r32 engines mounts, or have a set laying around they can measure for me? thanks Mike

Ok now that makes sense I didn't know they all used the same input flange across the s and r chassis (apart from gtr as you said) all sorted then I just need a non abs rear half of prop to match the non abs flange. Thanks again

I'm a bit worried about him changing the nose of the diff. As I have no idea what nose/flange is on it now and if that matters or not

Well atleast I know my options now. Either find a crown and pinion from a auto r32 abs diff and put it in my s13 diff or sell my diff and buy another r32 auto diff which is abs. Thankyou for the help

I completely agree with you it was a not ideal situation and the car has been off the road since while I did other things to the engine and wiring. What was strange is the gap was only about 5mm. The guy did change the input flange of the diff to a different one so im not sure if this made a difference or what it even came off. Hence why I'm trying to get rid of the skyline pumpkin and revert back to my original diff as I know it fitted the car perfectly

Hi guys ive been searching pretty much all evening and there is plenty of information about swapping diffs between nissan but im yet to find an answer for specifically what id like to do. i got a skyline auto diff 4.3 ratio but it was a non abs pumpkin, anyway i fitted it to my car (s13) and it was slightly to short which was to be expected as i have a abs car so it has abs prop shaft. i have my original s13 abs diff sitting in the garage and id like to refurb this then transfer all the skyline internals in to it so the shafts/crown/pinion/lsd is this possible? as i dont like the idea of having the non abs diff on the car as i have heard it puts the center joint of the prop shaft under more stress due to the prop being pulled closer to fill the void created by the shorter diff mike

Yeah I've been doing a fair ammount of research on what each valve does and how it does it so I can make a informed decision. Another option that has been mentioned is a vw idle control valve. A great thing is that my engine loom is being completely re made for the link so nothing is set in stone and the loom can be made for whatever route I go

Only reason I'm removing now is because I have the link ecu. I have used the system for the past few years and I've had no issues with it. But as I have the ability now I like the idea of only have one idle control valve so to speak. Less to go wrong and just a more modern system. I thought it was quite common for people to get rid of it?

unfortunately im in the uk so its quite often cold wet and windy so a cold start is something that is needed but i wanted to get rid of that crude system, it was a thread you had posted on recently pete i believe that gave me the thumbs up for getting rid of the cold start valve especially as i have the link now, this thread was more so about the coolant that runs down the sides of the ports then in to the log under the plenum which the cold start valve is bolted to, in perticular my current greddy style intake manifold for rb25 the water ways travel quite far in to the intake manifold and after a little blast in the car i was finding my intake manifold was like radiator hot (to hot to touch) so it just gave me the idea of stopping the water from entering it, but unfortunately i cannot do this

Thank you very much for the reply and information. I had a feeling the water log would carry the coolant away from the head I just wanted to make sure. As I did think the log could of been exclusive to the cold start valve as it was bolted to it. No problem though. I've been told for quite some time to get rid of the cold start valve as it is an ancient technology and now i have the link I can do just that

Hi guys ive made the decision to remove the cold start valve (IAC Valve) as im going to be running a link ecu very soon and i thought why not bring the car into the modern world abit more and use the ecu to control the cold start, now what id like to know is. the coolant passages that run between the intake ports on the rb25 and rb26 heads, are they linked inside the head or is the tube that is bolted and runs underneath the intake manifold in fact a crossover tube and this cannot be removed or blocked off? I ask as im in the process of installing a rb26 intake manifold on my rb25 head and my adapter plates havent yet had the passages cut out of them so i thought i could use the adapter plates to block them off as my current intake manifold seem to get rather hot, ive tried searching for what feels like an eternity for a coolant flow diagram for the rb25 and 26 but i just cant seem to find one, well one that shows the coolant flow inside the block/head, any information would be great thanks mike Picture of pipe/tube in question:

It's a series 2 I'm after as im building a rb25/30 the seller has shown me pictures of all the bungs so I'm sure it's a series 2 block which is great. But the first thing I noticed was the sump is completely different to the vl and skyline ones and it just made me wonder what else might be different on a patrol rb30

Thankyou for the reply I have seen some people selling a patrol rb30 as a series 2 engine. But as you said I'd of expected it to be a series 1 as the patrol rb30 was the most basic of all three

pretty sure i saw this over on driftworks or somebody linked it from here on there, awsome build, i love something a bit different

just a quick bump as im after a bit of advice i have seen tons and tons of threads about people asking the difference between the holden and nissan rb30 blocks and the answer is always nothing the only difference comes from what year the block was amde ie if it is a series 2 or series 1, but i find people are always talking about the r31 skyline or the vl, my question lies with the patrol block which is called a rb30s not a rb30e i know this is because it is a carb engine not electronic fuel but are there any other differences, mainly in the block? like different pistons? compression? or is it the same aslong as its a series 2 ofc thanks Mike

I've found my engine now I'm just after abit of help and advice if you guys know of a decent freight forwarder over there that can do a door to door service that I can get in contact with Thanks

Yeah this does seem to be the case. I've also been offered a short motor for 330 and a complete engine for 100. The complete engine has been in storage for 5 years though but I'm assured it was a runner before it got put in storage

Have the money waiting just need somebody to sell me a good rb30 block or bare engine. Have one lined up from a breakers but I think he wants a bit to much 450 aud. Can you beat this? Mike

Hi guys i posted up a thread about trying to find an importer/exporter to get one fo these over to the uk but its actually easier for me to just sort out all the shipping myself, so im now just looking for somebody with a series 2 rb30e engine or block needs to be in good condition, well only the crank needs to be good as forged pistons and rods will be going in. All id need from the person is them to strap it down to a pallet for me and drain the oil and water out if its a complete engine thanks Mike

After some helpful information from people I think I'm good to go. I can organise all the shipping all I need is somebody with a series 2 rb30 willing to part ways and who is willing to pallet it for me and drain the oil and water. So let me know what you've got Mike