MickEdge

$450 price drop

After watching the video again and seeing it rev up and back down to idle so cleanly and easy. Thats natural rb heartbeat. Seems to be some whacky tachycardhia somewhere to be sorted

Well the thread seem to net a bit more info and help me out a bit, Looks like others have come forward with some constructive criticism also. I understand you dont want forum flood all the time. But hey. It might help someone It'd have to be an issue. Its annoying as f**k pulling up at the lights and having your rpm tacho do all weird shit and the car rev funnily when all youve done is press the clutch in and come to a stop.. and its climbed up to 1100 and back down to 850 for no reason. Well it gets to me severely anyway. Also its alot worse on cold. Cold reversing out of my chicane like driveway clutching in and out has the revs sticking and dropping alot Ive been busy with work but im cleaning my iacv and a couple other checks this weekend ill let you know what happens for me yes yes yes yes so much worse on cold.. Points more towards the iacv. I appreciate all the brainstorming. Im yet to feel a misfire in mine though. illl keep you posted

Cash waiting!

Still up for sale

I have the stock plms data cable + datascan. A while ago it threw fault code 17 tcs/acs/slip. Dont know if that had anything to do with it though. I cleared the ecu. Turned the car on and off and that fault code had never shown up again and the idle remained sticky. tonnes of people keep directing me to clean the idle air control valve so i guess that is the goes. any further help is appreciated though

Buyer backed out. Still up for grabs

Yeah basically as the title has described. Revs up Decreases, Sometimes holds at 1100rpm momentarily and drops back to normal idle Other times drops back to normal idle no worries Such a weird little sticky point Any ideas? Anyone seen this before?. Video for more clarification. Cheers

Still for sale. Need it gone

Hi guys. As the title says. Absolutely need a set of rears to match the front brembos on the ol' 98 gtt. Pls pls pls! Pm me or comment asap

As said in the title. Looking for $500 reasonable offers will be considered. Peace out

Everythings a possibilty to look into. But idk that seems highly unlikely

Well given the guy at the shop identified the pads as being from a 350z the caliper mounting + spacing is off the fact that the rears dont bolt on directly as r34-gtr rears are supposed to i can give my best assumption that these are infact 350z brakes. what a f**k around.. thanks guys for all the help! Im just gonna have to sell them, try and find a real set of gtr calipers to finish off the brakes on the car.... any further input is appreciated. thanks for the help again.

i am not sure if they are z33. Front brakes on the car came across from japan and sold as "98 r34 gtt with r34 gtr front brake kit." i didnt look into the front anymore than that. Not worried about anything on the front though. Rears is what giving me the grief So what your saying is (to clarify) these arent gtr calipers because they arent a direct fit. the bloke who i bought these calipers said they came off a 99-00 gtr. Unless he was bullshitting. Storefront did identify the pads as being from a 350z. More talk led me to believe the z33 and gtr had identical rears. Not sure though

hmmm, well i wish it was plug and play. gonna have to figure out a way around the holes not lining up. thanks for the help guys! if anyone else can share some insight it will be incredibly appreciated

Cheers 75coupe. Hadouken, straight swap? i pulled my wheel/disc/stock caliper/lines off and held the new ones up. Caliper mounting holes are bigger than the ones on my stub axe, also the holes mismatch by about 4-5mm Straight swap with some drilling may work? just seems dangerous to be drilling out shit like this. I figured it was going to be like removing lego piece a and replacing with lego piece b. Needs some work Any ideas? thanks heaps

sorry to dig up an old thread, but i have bought a set identical to these rears. are they a direct bolt fit to a 98 gtt?

bumpy bump. Someones gotta have seen some 34 gtr brakes before!

Hi guys, and before its said ive searched and searched every forum known to man. funnily enough i havent been able to find info to aid me! Nevertheless, i recently purchased a set of brembos. R34 GTR rear brembo calipers alledgedly over the course of the past weekend i decided id throw them on. I went to my local part store and got a set of matching rotors. Heres where i fall off the knowing boat. Aparently, r34 gtr rear brembos are a direct fit to a stock 98 r34 gtt, but after removing the stock calipers/discs i came to the conclusion that the calipers in question dont align to the stub axle by 4-5mm. They fit the rotor nicely just the caliper mountings dont line up. Ontop of that the bolt sizes to fit them are a bigger size. So if anyone could help me out in terms of - Are these actually R34 GTR rear calipers. Ive been told by one person they are r34 gtr ones. Another told me they are from a 350z (aparently he identified it from the brake pad.) - Do stock rear gtr calipers bolt straight onto gtt's? - Is it possible to put them on my 98 gtt? - Am i going to need to manafacture an adapter plate and get a bigger rotor? Pics to follow. Im at the point of severe annoyance with this. Happily give 4 cases of beer to someone to fit them at this point... haha Rotor Info : Manufacturer DBA Product code DBA 4929S DBA Series 4000 series T3 slotted Ventilation Vented Diameter [mm] 300 Thickness [mm] 22 Minimum thickness [mm] 20

bumpy bump

Any further help is really appreciated guys !

I hasnt happened since but next time it does ill see if it continues for as long as i stay held on the clutch for. Its just paining hana

Ehhhhh gay. Just happened from reverse to first

everything feels fine in all the other gears hey. its just this one weird issue its only ever happened 4 times in the passed 6 months.

Hi guys, really needing some assistance on this one.. Excuse my poor explaining but here we go Basically i jump in the car and turn it on handbrake off clutch in engage reverse (BRRRRRRRR Begins) Slide back into neutral (BRRRRRR Continues) Slide clutch back out (Noise stops completely.) The same noise will also stop BRRRRR-ing once the car begins to move in gear, whether it be 1st or Reverse. Seems to happen most when the car is cold (whether this is related or not im not sure but its when i noticed it.) Incredibly stumped on this one, Uploader wouldnt let me upload windows media player files so i posted it on youtube and ill throw the link in the box too. Any help is greatly appreciated. And ill readily be checking the thread to answer more questions thanks guys~~!