Lunatic Dancer

I've just installed one of the xforce metal cats...3" the actual cat bit is slightly larger, maybe 4" but the ends are 3" driving wise I can definitely feel less restriction, boost comes on earlier and quicker, less throttle at cruise, bit more responsive.. All in all I would say that its definitely worth it. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with straight pipe replacement so can't comment on that but I went from 3" catco high flow (large volume) to this and can def. feel the difference.. Only problem is xforce ones don't come with anything stating its legal etc like the metalcat type.. no stamps no nothing on the actual cat... I'm getting the pfc tuned sometime this week and can post results if anyone is interested... this is on sr20det with cams etc btw...

Sold

hey guys...got my Profec A for sale.. perfect working order....selling cause i need cash :| includes copy of english manual... if you want it call me 0401120782 cheers, $230...

it goes after the cat... so you will still need the flange from cat to cat-back... and you cut a section of your catback enough to weld the ecv on

performance wise..i'm not sure... though i'm inclined to say full throttle when the valve is shut is a bad idea..

Hi there...i've got an apexi ECV 80mm for sale.. ecv = exhaust control valve... basically goes after your cat and its a butterfly flap that you can control to lower your exhuast noise...maximum of 10dB... all with inside your cabin... its 80mm unit but i had 75mm (3") pipes welded on... i was supposed to use it for my car but need cash now since turbo just died...brand new never used... asking $270 call me 0401120782

actually because its only half an inch more, it will make it 6.25mm more on each side of the rim... so same offset its going to stick out ~16.25mm which a gaurd roller will easily fix...

frame jack = scissor jack? if so don't do it...too dangerous... get a good hydraulic jack and jackstands if you want to live..and jack the middle of the diff like under the drain bolt with wood, not at the fins.... also the bush area...it seems normal, maybe a fraction too much of a space inbetween but the metal spacers will fill them up...

hmmm...I've tried adjusting mine a few times but does not seem to be locking it any tighter.. As far as I know the 2way GT-lsd pro comes out of the box torqued at MID setting... Has anyone with this lsd successfully tightened theirs, while on the car, to the High setting?

wot offsets are they?

pictures can be seen here.. http://members.optushome.com.au/koguchipower/Sale/

yeh...probably the words i used wasn't the proper ones.... but yes..you are now officially a clutch expert haha

ok..the pivot bolt is the lil thing the clutch Fork 'pivots' on... the bearing carrier is the thing the sleave bearing is pressed into.. the bearing carrier is attached to the clutch fork... it slides up and down the main shaft when as you clutch in and out.. and the sleave bearing ofcourse, is what pushes against the pressure plate fingers.. this is for push type obviously... you're right about the lil spring eliminating the rattle though..

front and rear sway bars off hicas 180.. slightly thicker than non-hicas... includes all mounts $60 Apexi Air filter dual funnel Used approx 5,000k suited for s14/s15 but can be used on s13 if egr stuff is removed... -filter -all brackets -proper apexi adapter $150 R33 rear spindle/knuckle - perfect condition... $100 for both

thanks guys...i pretty much knew how to put in the dba slotted's... was more curious on why the different directions on certain discs... another question....ppl running the rb74 pads... what colour are they? red pads with black compound?

i figured that out....lol.. only that i see cars in magazines with thiers the other way from the dba's.. just wondering if there was a difference.. probably depends on manufacturer yeh?

Hi guys...just a quick question on slotted rotors. Does it really matter which direction the slots are pointing? Like will there be a performance or life issue if its going round the wrong way. On the box there is right and left ...that is to say when you are looking straight with the car. ie driver seat. correct? Please see attachment if you don't understand what I'm on about Btw I'm talking about the DBA 4000 ones..

your 2* toe in is killing your tyres bad.... i'd get it realigned back to 0.. have you dont alot of twisty driving after ur wheel alignment?

Iwells please understand that my post was not meant to come that way... Maybe try another abs in syd? You should be getting prices similar to cowies.

Yeh...getting chassis numbers will be a problem as these calipers are for my 180 5 stud conversion... and since all of them are pulled off wrecks in japan.... What year does the series 2 r33 gtst come in again? They would still have identical calipers to the series 1 though right? Also do you work for nissan?

Yes the part no.'s that SteveL gave are still valid as i've just rung ABS from work. SteveL can you tell me whether those rebuild kits fits the R33 gtst and R34 GTT calipers?

lol...yeh paragraphs would be nice. After reading that I'm hoping you didn't spray the spot where the two parts of the caliper joined (middle). You didn't need to take every part of the caliper apart, just use masking tape. You also definitely need to bleed them now as inasnt said. Do you know how to do that?

215 on the 9's is a nice stretch....i've got 225 on mine and it looks very normal, not stretched at all.... on the 10's id say 225 or 235....

Hey....I'd just like to know if the R33 gtst and R34 gtt calipers are identical? So would it be an easy bolt on swap for the gtt calipers straight into the gtst? I know they use the same size discs 296 fronts and 297 rears. I've already tried searching but couldn't find much on the calipers...

hehe...rattle is cool ^^ basically..to install a twin place you need -twin plate clutch -sleeve bearing (smaller diameter) instructions should have nissan part no.s -sleeve carrier (shorter) "" -forged pivot ball (nismo etc, highly recommended) to get the best out of it i'd recommend -stainless steel clutch line (increases response, takes out vagueness, also take out the clutch loop from original assembly) -lager slave cylinder (nismo etc...decreases pedal pressure, better level of control, drive ie. parking) only problem with multiplate clutches is when its time to replace them its very costly. But they can handle alot of abuse, as long as you can thrash the car WITHOUT slipping the clutch at all they will last a long long time... also i dont see how the nismo one would be any less hassle that installing an ORC type... but they are both good clutches so either one would do well..