Lunatic Dancer

yeh it will be fine....just dont go over 1bar of boost....

spoon ur right.....for drifting its really bad, whole point of drifting is controlling the slide by counter steering with front wheels..with hicas on the rear wheels would be counter-counter steering ur front wheels...somethin like that also Fitzy ur right thats one way but u gotta remember thats no 100% garuntee rear toe isnt going to move under load....better off getting the hicas lock.. i installed mine few weeks back and can feel the difference straight away, when 'trying' to drift it is sooo much more easier to control, though i got mine cheaper than that straight from japan...

yep....overfill = bad

interesting.....i read somewhere that when applying its better to wet them with water first, then wrap/clamp.... is that the way to do it or just bull?

hahah...wats the width?

not on nites one!!! muahhahaha......

there are 2 types of iridium ngk sparkies.... the difference is in the centre electrode (tip) size.. 0.8mm and 0.6mm. 0.8 is the same size as plats so they are only better by lasting longer. 0.6mm one has better spark and uses less voltage but only lasts same distance as the platinum ones. also when you order em make sure u tell em to get the model without the -11 at end cause then they will come gapped to .8mm not sure the code for the RB's. you dont want to gap them the traditional way cause you might scratch off the iri coating which defies the getting em in first place! i used to use the v-groove copper ones but with the iridium's engine does feel smoother and seems to hold boost better.

yeh i know. i hate it..sounds like its broken and driving it more like this is going to screw it more. tomorrow im going to lower it another 1-2cm to see if the noise will go away, cause alot of these jap coil-overs are designed to be used LOW, having said that i dont even know the brand of mine lol....springs are thick black and coil-over is blue. but i still think that this has got to do with that incident at the mechanic.

ye...when using quick shift kit it is really recommended you use better quality gearbox oil. cause the syncros are working faster as you are going from gear to gear faster. unless ur sycros are screwed to start with =]. but depends on how u shift too...you can still shift like granny with shortshift, either way better oil will help u save money in the long run.

yeh i have the same problem, but only in my rear left coil-over. going over bumps..instead of the usual hydrolic sound the shhhhh sound i get this bump bump sound.... dunno if this has anything to do with it but im sure it does, while getting an rwc the guy had to test drive my car and when he came back instead of going slowly up the driveway the **** drove it as if it was a 4wd and the left wheel ran up the driveway pretty hard . so could be damaged. but i also realised that all 4 coil-overs will do this when i raise it too high (to pass defect) and when i put it back to height it was its fine. cept for that single one still bumps.

also advancing the timing past stock isnt going to help it cool down hehe....

used to use mobil 1 5w-50, now i use castrol R 5w-30 and i find it better than the mobil stuff.....

how much oil did you put in? because i was having the same problem....but mostly going from 1st-2nd... its really important to only fill till it spills out from the filler on a FLAT surface...cause first time i changed mine i didnt lower it back down to get rid of excess... did that last weekend and i had about 400ml too much and now it shifts heaps better....

i've got one in my 180....its very easy to use and same with installation. has hi / low setting and also scramble mode (hi boost on timer basically) and digital boost gauge. its really a good ebc considering its age since release. you gotta remember that once u dial in the boost setting you need to do a few full boost runs so it learns the turbos boost curve then it will pull . one thing though i've tried installing one on my friends r33 gtst but no matter wat it wont pass the learning mode stage 2...not even the alternative method.....his ecu is chipped though so not sure if that has anything to do with it.

yes it does work, this feature along with the ability to control boost spikes down to 0.5psi is why you hear alot of ppl saying it is so hard to tune the avc-r and go for a different brand. even though its single solenoid its abilities make up for the imperfections compared to dual solenoids. that said the difference between dual and single isnt night and day i would believe only in the higher boost settings would you see the difference how big or small i dont know. but like i said it has alot of features and u really gotta know wat ur doing to use it to full extent. btw i've got the old profec a...single solenoid - dial in boost via knob max 3bar - doubt its affective that high though, but then again as if im ever going to see that figure on my car - im running 0.9 bar and it holds boost extremely well reduces turbo lag by a margin. if u dont want attention from police hide the controller behind ashtray or glovebox instead of on dash etc. also the avc-r solenoid looks comparitively to factory one. final thing if u want best out there in the market Blitz SBC iD-3.

yes but with the avc-r you can set boost for each gear and rpm range..and ye u cant set boost lower than lowest on wastegate. install you can do urself with a bit of skill and tuning you can go dyno or with a mate and long stretch of road if u only want hi / low setting then profec b spec2 is good buy..

yeh its designed to fit pretty tight after you get it through so its pretty hard to do it....wat i did was use 3 long zip ties.....sorta like in a triangle...like 3 sides between the boot and shifter and getting it through inch at a time u can use some lube but will get messy.....

another thing - take off the fuel pump fuse and give it a few cranks, usually helps reduce the amount of fuel spillage when u take off the fuel and return hose from the top of bracket....(spare clothes come in handy) yep its in the trunk but not exactly like the 180's though, its right behind the rear seats, got this step thing like another level same as the 200sx u will see wat i mean.... if u decide to take off the neg. of battery then might as well reset ecu, press the brakes a few times after you pulled the plug. ur question - if ur fpr (fuel pressure reg.) is in good order ur mileage shouldnt have any major changes though u will be running a lil more richer... im sure jimx will be able to help ur more precisely as hes changed his to a bigass bosch item, ur will be easier though still probably require a bit of modding.

always a good idea to have the support sytem before ramping up the power.... i've not seen a gtr one but like any other fuel pump should just be + and - up top....its quite simple take out the fuel assembly and remove old install new same way, use stainless C clamp to hold it...im not familiar with skylines but my 180 was really simple just take ur time and keep sparks away

lowlux...try this dude http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

when i switched from optimax to bp ultimate..it was like night and day.....soo much smoother and more torque as before running 60 in 5th car would not like it *shakes alot?* and now its heaps better.... bp is cheaper too...

more pics up.... yep they will fit GTR's perfectly....

rims still for sale~

anyone?

hey dudes, i've upgraded my fuel pump so my stocker is up for sale... good cheap step up for ca18det's....its outta my 180sx so should fit all s13's... comes with pump/filter/power connections... ppl interested make me an offer...... Fai