JCMarshall_Law

Your getting posts mixed up I was replying to Roy's post, please read the quote above my post

Dick head, are you comparing standard production cars or modified cars, what is this 7500HP V8 shit. While we are at it, the spce shuttle's three SSMEs produce just over 37 million horsepower. I'll have to admit that is more power than my skyline.

HAHA, fair enough, I was just trying to point out that the Group A skyline and the V8 supercars are race preped standard production cars

Just one more thing: In my humble opinion, you're a wanker. Pull your head out of the sand and use your own brain.

I dont think anyony would say a HSV is slow, obviously they are not. But I think the skylines are infinatly better designed cars. As a mechanical engineer it is hard to admit that the Jap's design better cars than the Australians, I don't think it has anything to do with skill of indervidual engineers (Australians are renound for their engineering invention) but it has more to do with the market. Australians, as a market, aren't to interested in elegance in engineering design, most people are more interested in having a bloody big donk up front (5.7 L V8). I have owned both skylines and Holdens (VL and VP), I can tell you, the skyline is an infinatly better car than both the commodores put together. I'd be happy to walk around and compare the stone age design concepts in the commodores compared with the well thought out, designed and constructed skyline. The biggest one that comes to mind is the suspension setup on both cars, its like comparing chalk and cheese. Just compare a race prep skyline (group A) with a race prep commorore (V8 supercar), there is NOTHING origional in a V8 supercar, everything from the suspension to chassis are redesigned. Eg; most V8 teams use A arm suspension which is a major design change from the standard struts. A GTR skyline, on the other hand, basically things are just strengthened, there is no major design changes (eg; they come stock with full A arm suspension). And think about this: Skylines are sports cars, Commodores / HSV are basically family cars. If you had any Fu*kin idea what you were talking about you would realise that skylines are the better car.

I've had to remove broken stud bolts in a RB30 before (I broke 6 when removing the headers, its something you really cant avoid). For your job its prolly best if you take your whole manifold off so you can get to the bolt inside the head, you will prolly break a couple more but at least then you can replace the whole set. Never re-use stud bolts, they are cheap as. RB25's use standard metric studs and any exhaust shop could supply for around $2. I wont pretend it is not a shit job, it is, but it is a great experence and if your a bit timid about doing things to your car, everything seems a bit eaiser after this job. It takes a while, thats why workshops charge so much to have it done. you woul be looking at about $400 - $600 for a workshop to do it, of about $50 and a days work for you to do it. You will need the following things: 1) A reversible right angle drill (you will not fit a normal drill in there) hire one for $30 /day. 2) a couple of left hand fluted drill bits, a pilot and one to just fit insidt the stud bolt, leaving a milimeter between the threads and the hole, ie 10X1.5 metric stud, use a 5mm bit (5=10-1.5-1.5-1-1) (cobalt bits are best but good luck finding them with left flutes) 3) bolt pullers / ezouts / stud removers one to fit the hole in the stud, get the straight flute ones, if you get the twist flute ones, I have heard they can twist into the stud, make it expand, and cause more problems. Get good quality ones!!!!!!! 4) a good tool set, inc, a hole punch, hammer 5) a whole day. Method: 1) punch a hole in the center of the broken stud bolt, spend the time to get this right in the center. If you dont drill down the center you could drill through the bolt into the head! 2)Drill down far enough into the broken stud bolt to get the ezout in there without bottoming out. Be carefull to keep the drill straight, take your time. This bit could hopefully result in the stud catching on the drill bit and comming out with the drilling action, thats why I said use left hand drill bits. It is not essential, but I found that when I was drilling (with right hand bits) the studs came loose and actually ended up screwing further in. If they dont come out in this step go to the next one. 3) tap the ezout into the hole with a hammer, be carefull, not to go to hard otherwise you will expand the bolt inside head then your in the shit. 4)This bit is important!!!, you want to twist out the stud with the ezout with out applying any bending to the exout, use a T piece from a socket set or two shifters eitherside of the ezout, apply even pressure. be really carefull, the last thing you want is a ezout broken off inside the solt because you have just made your problems 10 times worse. Hopefully they all came out without a problem, bolt everything up with ALL NEW studs and makesore everything is at the CORRECT FACTORY TORQUE SPEC. some people say lubricating everything with RP7 or WD40 for a few days before helps, but I'm not sure, I removed the manifold on my R33 (did'nt break any studs though) and the studs came out dry dispite 3 days of applying WD40. Go on give it a go!!!!!

Shit, that looks like a good deal if the car is as good as it looks, I paid a lot more for mine 6 months ago, although, mine's not white!

Good on Ya, all the best.

For those who missed the last SAU QLD morning tea, here is a photo of a few of the boys having a great time.

Now your looking good Charly!

Hey Chaly your not allowed to use your own picture, it stuffs up the whole game.

Considering standard production engines, Honda make some great ones, F3 and F4 CBR 600 (motorbike) engines, F3 is prolly a better engine but the F4 is fuel injected. The sequential gearboxed on these engines are great. How can you look past the Ford Windsor V8, designed back in the 1950's, the same basic design is still used in both ford production cars and V8 Supercars.

Another thread dedicated to driving offences commited by skyline owners, really bright! I bet some of the people who have posted in this thread have complained about the poor image of skylines in the community, news and police department.

Not giving you sh1t, but you will prolly have a hard time getting a car yard to give an 18 year old the time of the day, let alone a test drive of a ~$50,000 sports car just because you want to find out how they drive. Trust me I've been there. May not be a problem if you have some financial backing, (parents) Insurance; don't worry about that, you will not get it (in your name anyway), at least not for any reasonable price. If it was me I would not insure you for much less than ~$30,000 a year for a $50,000 car. Again, not having a go, just thinking of stastics. If your really keen, keep the dream alive and it will be yours, you'll prolly be a bit older than 21 before you get it though.

Yeah, that sounds about right, the controller will need a MAP sensor for feedback if it is to operate as a closed loop.

Yeah thats right, I just want to add something: Fig 1: Open loop - the boost will reach a preset level, this may not actually be the boost pressure that it achieves because the controller has no way of judging what pressure has been reached. Thats why open loop controllers are "set and check types" Closed loop - The controller will have a pressure sensor to tell it what the pressure is, it will then increases (or decrease) the pressure by a set ammount and checks the pressure again. based on that info, the contoller then increases (or decreases) by a set amount (smaller than the first) and that repeats untill the desired pressure is reached. Increasing or decreasing the pressure by smaller ammounts each time. Figure 2 and 3 show a poorly designed (cheap) closed loop controller, Figure 1 shows a controller that overshoots the desired pressure (boost spike) and osscilates untill it finally reaches the desired pressure. Figure 3 shows a controller that takes too long to reach the set pressure - obviously not good. Figure 4 shows a well designed controller that quickly reaches the set pressure without overshooting. The maths for control systems engineering gets fairly complex, but if your really keen look at a uni level control systems text book, this stuff is in the first chapter.

Might as well post up mine, I'm happy considering is was my first time at a track and I was not too keen to flog the car. SAU Nickname: JCMarshall_Law Car Make and Model: 1995 R33 Manual GTST Circuit Name: Queensland Raceway - clubman circuit, 2.11 km Lap time: 1:12.97 (1-2-05, check post by organiser - Paul "GTRman1992" in thread in Queensland section titled "Track Day 1-2-05" for verification) Modifications Engine: Standard RB25DET - Exhaust and Pod filter mods only Power: Standard + whatever a exhaust and pod gets ya. Suspension: Koni adjustable front struts, Bilstien rear struts, standard springs. Tyres: 17 inch Falken 235's Brakes: Standard calipers and disks with Nizmo pads Body weight: Standard ~1300kg ?

Yeah that explains a few things, I assumed you were talking about a RB25DET.

I am sure you are way past the peak of the torque curve at 7500 - 8000 rpm for a Stock RB25DET, the only thing your doing around that rpm is killing the engine.

What is the redline on the R32 GTS4? It is 7000 rpm on the R33 GTST. Supprised you were getting up to 160 km/h down the back straight, I was only tipping 150km/h, I was using higher gears though. I thought I was going a bit slow through this corner but don't think I would have held 140km/h.

Hey, just wondering what gears the other Skyline drivers were using. Myself: Clubman track 5th at the end of the front straight (~170km/h at the end) 4th through the first long right hander (110km/h) 4th on the short straight (up to 130km/h) 3-4th through second long right hander (100km/h) 4th next straight (up to 140km/h) 3rd in sharp right 180 deg (down to 60km/h) 3rd right round the lefts then 4th into the second main straight. 4th end of secont main straight (150km/h) 3rd at the final right hand 180 deg onto the main (front) straight. I think I was prolly using too high a gears, But I was trying not to hammer the car. I was also changing at around 5500 RPM. What about everyone else? Clubman circuit diagram attached.

Yeah, it was good fun, lucky I was right in the middle of the "not lost" pack. That cop was funny as, repeating everything and tripping over his words, in true pissed bastard style! I wish the uniforms had turned up, I could not believe he was standing there telling us we were up to no good when he was obviously pissed and planning on driving home. I feel so much better knowing he is out there serving and protecting the community!?!?!? This was classic: Knore: "your drunk" (turns away) Pissed Cop: "You don't tuuurrn-way, I'll aarrest uuur and you'll spend the night in the lockaaarrp! Knore: "I'm calling the real cops" Pissed cop: Naaarrr, mate... mate..... look... I ... I like you car.... Best backflip in attitude I've ever seen in a cop.

Holy sh1t, please tell me that is a joke? Would anyone really go for that? If so, it is a big indication of how sh1t human beings can be, truly incredible! "Ohhhh! The Humanity!!!!"

I suggest those about to reply to this thread should read this first, it is exactly the same thread, but a lot more debate had gone on. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+sound+as+a+BOV

I think that was the Silver Autobarn car, it hammered until something let go (oil leak?) and they retired. I was standing at the end of the main straight on the lap it happened - it did not sound so good:(