admS15

I could just buy a BMW M2 comp instead and be done with. I know @Dose Pipe Sutututu will approve.

It's just that the rb25de neo I was looking at doesn't come with the cas, well it's not pictured anyway. So 33 cas is no go then? So with a proper RB25DET NEO like yours, just in case I come across 1, can R33 intake manifold work? I vaguely remember you had some troubles trying to do that with yours. Refresh my memory please,lol.

Yes please, forward me details via pm. Sounds like an Aladdin's cave of RBs

Is it the same for Neo det head, my 33 manifolds bolt straight on? Can I use my 33 cas as well?

Thanks GTSBoy. The vanilla rb25 is still the preference and unless I can find solid info about the neo det then I'll just forget about it.

I did think about asking him but would need to find what the correct cc is before getting him involved. Unless of course @GTSBoyalready knows the cc of an R34DE Neo head is

So there is one of these things here locally for 1k as a long block. Pretty sure these have 10:1 comp. Wonder if a 33 head is bolted on where comp would end up? If the 33 head would work it could be a good option as the rest of the 33 gear would bolt up. Would just need to sort oil and water feeds and returns. I've been googling trying to find the cc of the rb25de head but can't find an answer. Not sure if it's same as neo det which is 51.5cc. Anyone know?

I would like to keep things simple, I don't want to have to rewire, retune or touch anything I don't need to. So an R33 RB25DET is the preference. See above post for my concerns, lol.

The options running through my head are 1. Good 2nd hand R33 RB25DET 2. Buy a suit rebuild 25 and have built 3. RB25/30 (would depend on if my head is good) 4. LS not going to happen. 5. Sell car as is complete 6. Part out Option 1 would be great but as we all know they're pretty hard to come by these days and a good one is almost rocking horse poo. I made some calls today and couldn't find one but apparently the going rate is $30-3500 for a good long block. One bloke reckons he may have 1 in a few weeks, otherwise will be getting some from Japan in the new year. Obviously a 2nd hand engine is like rolling the dice. Could end up with something that needs rebuild. I don't really feel like playing that game. The more I think about it the more I feel like selling as is would be the best option. I'll happily take 15k for it. I do have time on my side, so I'll try to be patient. I'd prefer if I could see a 2nd hand engine running and can hear, comp test it. Definitely not buying off some flog on market place with an engine that looks like it was at the bottom of a river for 6 years.

Some more pics of the carnage I had been saying I felt like I was on borrowed time with this engine. Maybe I should invest in a crystal ball and charge people to tell them their fortunes. Pay for a new engine in no time. My bro science failure analysis. Looks like a rod bolt let go. Google says this is usually from excessive rpm. I was keeping it to the usual rpm of 7-7200, did hit the 7600 limiter once during the day. My theory is metal fatigue/stress on the bolt from prolonged high rpm/torque/hp over time and that particular bolt reached it's break point yesterday. We can speculate forever but what's done is done. I suppose it was inevitable and just my turn. Ive had a decent run over the last 7-8 years. Trying to weigh up my options. Obviously this engine is now scrap, I doubt anything will be salvageable. If the head somehow managed to survive, that would be a win.

Session 3, first few laps went ok, brakes felt good, starting to get into it a bit and then disaster struck and had to be towed off again. This time it was terminal. I knew from the moment I heard the bang and saw the smoke pouring out the back that this was serious. Luckily there was a tow truck in the car park and I was able to find and convince the bloke to tow me home. Not good I had a quick peak under the bonnet and it wasn't looking good, big oily mess. Picture doesn't look that bad but there's oil everywhere in that corner of the bay. At this point I was thinking the worse, possibly Rodney had left the room. Within half an hour of the incident I was home and started investigating. Sump was overfull and the radiator empty. Hmm, starting to hope that maybe it's just a head gasket and the smoke out the back is the result of the sump being overfilled. Got underneath and started looking around, looking at the mess underneath there, things are looking more serious again. These where found sitting on the cross member and PS rack. Rodney well and truly has left the chat and thrown a leg out of bed. f**k... Today I got underneath again and had another look and found the secondary additional pcv site. And found it R.I.P RB you served well. WTB RB25DET

Track day, done and dusted. Tyres actually gripped ok, managed a 1:26.1 which is around the expectation I had. Could of gone a bit quicker but there where some issues encountered. Had to get towed off half way through 1st session. First time ever having to be towed off. I heard some weird electrical arcing noises, flashing air bag light and dash going crazy followed by smoke coming from the boot. Car lost power and came to a rest. Thankfully my questionable tow point was strong enough for the task and once back to the pit area it was a simple fix. The direct power wire from battery to fuel pump shorted on my amp, must of been cutting into it over time. Wire was removed and bush mechanic repaired/joined together and reinsulated with a combo of insulation and Gaffa tape. Car fired up and all was well again. 2nd session was fairly drama free and I did the 26.1 , by the end of the session the brake pedal went real long. Most probably a combination of the breaking in of the new rear pads and old low front pads not cutting it. Was fine after a couple of cool down laps. To be continued

Sounds like a plan, not sure if I'll still be able to walk or drive by the time you get your skyline finished but I'll try 🤣

Did someone say pool party. I have one of these Awaiting invite 😂

So U still use and recommend NPC or would you go something different next time?

Most people around here use and recommend NPC clutches. @Dose Pipe Sutututuhad I believe their single plate carbotic and was holding 375rwkw for years with no issues. Not sure what he's running now. What are you running now Mr Dose? I run their organic single plate and has been holding 315rwkw easily for around 6-7 years now. I've kept my setup at this power level as too much more gets exponentially more expensive.

Unfortunately won't be happening b4 track day. Surprisingly I don't have rear brake locking issues, just high wear. The only time I can recall pinching a rear was mg corner T10 at Phillip island. It is downhill and off camber so kind of explainable. Looking forward to Sunday and just getting some leisurely laps in 😂

I have a stoptech st40 kit with 332 X 32 rotors. And 3:1 is around the wear rate. Braking is good though. I did also have the same issue with stock brakes but probably 2.5:1. The bm57 may be an option but don't know how it will go with the fronts, stoptech matches the kits to the factory master cylinder. The pistons in the caliper are pretty small from memory, smaller than GTR brembos. Brake bias valve sounds good and fits in with the tight arse nature of the car. Will definitely look into it if problem persists. Thanks for your thoughts gents.

Octopus grip has been applied, 1 coat went on on Tuesday and a second went on today. Shed smells really funky, like an Asian massage parlour on roids (think tiger balm X 1000 strength). Your meant to wrap the tyres in plastic after the 2nd application. Will get around to that tomorrow. Weather is looking good for Sunday, 23° and sunny. Should be decent track conditions. In other news, while looking around the shed, I found 2 boxes of front brake pads, turns out there's an almost new set of front pads, much better than the ones that are fitted ATM (I was sure I had a decent set but couldn't find them on the day I was doing the brakes, the ones fitted are around 50%, should get through the day ok). I'll keep the newish ones for when I get new tyres. The boat has always struggled with rear brake wear, it's kind of weird as every other skyline owner reports minimal rear wear. Maybe it's because non abs model, possibly has slightly less front bias or maybe just overheating. To try combat this without upgrading the rear brake setup, I'm trying out Circo m119. They've been fitted, we'll see how they hold up.

Yep, you're probably right. The idea is to burn up the old track tyres to get new ones and not wreck the new street tyres but if it has to be done, it will be done. You should bring your R34 out, we can torch tyres together, lol.

This is very true and I won't lie, I am slightly concerned about a tyre possibly delaminating (hence asking the question here) but I think if that was going to happen, it would regardless of tyre softener usage. I'm going to roll the dice and use it but will be cautious and check the condition of the tyres like a hawk between sessions. I think I'll take the street wheels with the zestinos as a back up, wouldn't mind cutting a couple of laps with them to see what they can do.

Have booked in for a track day at Sandown this weekend for a bit of a shakedown. First one in 3 years+. Yay. Got to work last week and refitted the track pads, wheels/tyres, rollcage, race seat and harness. Took me a few hours all up. Also re bled the brakes while at it. Ready to roll. Will be going out on 5 year old nankang ar1's, I know I won't be going anywhere near a pb but should be ok for a shakedown. I have a can of octopus grip tyre softener in the shed. What do you guys reckon, should I use it to treat the tyres or just leave them as is and hope for the best?

Shaving them is the best option..

Minor update. The zestino 07a where fitted to the 33 recently. I tell you what, tyre fitting prices have gone way up. $40 per tyre is the going rate now, Sheesh. Rang around locally and one bloke said $30 each if I took the old tyres away. I was happy with that, as that was the plan. The ad08r that came off where promptly posted on marketplace as skid or fitment check tyres for $100. Gone a few hours later. Net cost of tyre change was $20. Excellent. Tell you what, the zestinos grip really really well straight line. I'm quite impressed, can almost put all the power down in 2nd gear, even in the wet they hold on better than expected. Sure, the ad08r that came off where old and rock hard but I really don't remember them being any better for straight line traction when they where brand new. Only downside is it feels like Ive lost 100rwkw, no more 3rd gear power slides and baking the tyres at will🙁. SQ5 has been going well and chopping just about everything at the traffic light gp. It's been happy motoring.