admS15

Can you run without it, yes. Should you, probably not. My car runs 1 as it's flex tuned. I run e85 all the time, may run 98 once a year just to purge the system out. In Victoria, the ethanol content from United pump e85 seems very consistent, my sensor reads it as 78-79%, have seen 80-81% a couple of times. I haven't verified how accurate my sensor is but wouldn't be too far off. This is over 5 years, never been under or over those figures. On another note, you could get one of those portable ethanol test kits but you would need to take a sample each time. Since you already have the sensor, why not just use it. In future you may decide to run flex and it would be 1 less thing required.

You might need to make your own version of this

Yeah, there is a fair bit to do but there would be for just about any car with 150k on it, except of course 90's Nissan's, coz they're the best. To be honest, I just want to get this stuff done and then just enjoy driving it, knowing it's in the best shape it could possibly be in. I watched that video in the thread you linked, that's exactly how mine launches without any silly launch control procedure. Just put it in S, ESC off, left foot hard on brake, mash accelerator and stall up on converter, release brake and hold on. They do get out of the hole very well, even without stalling it up.

It's funny you mention that. While underneath, finishing up with the trans service, the engine mounts where inspected and the oily puss dribbling out of the driver's side mount confirms my suspicions. A slight vibration at idle has developed recently, pretty sure it started shortly after a launch event. You can't really feel it, it's more like a droney sound/frequency around the dash windscreen area. My OCD can't tolerate this for long though. I had already spent some time looking around for mounts. Every supplier in Australia seemed to only have LH mounts. Ended up ordering Meyle branded mounts. 1 from Amazon UK and the other from eBay UK. Will be a while before they arrive. Gives me time to plan how to get it done. It's going to be a shit fight, pretty tight down there but hopefully won't be too much drama. Will need one of those top mount engine support/lift brace contraptions. Will have to order one of those too. Damn freaking Germans. And Dose, this doesn't have LC like the DSG Vag's do. You just turn the ESC off, stall it up on the converter conventionally, release and get pinned into the seat while it thrusts forward like a caged animal that's broken free.

Re checked and topped off the trans fluid again yesterday morning with the oil temp at 40-45°C, was 60°C when I filled it the other day. It took an additional 1 litre in. In total around 6.6 litres came out but 8 litres went back in. Either, it's lost 1.4 litres of fluid during it's 8 years or somewhere along the line it's been serviced and short filled due to procedure not being followed. I made sure for the final fill the car was totally level, a spirit level was used to confirm, lol. I can now sleep well, knowing that it's been done properly. Trans shifts great and a massive improvement over pre service behaviour.

Got around to dumping and refilling the trans fluid again. 3 litres came out and I put roughly that amount back in. Unfortunately the fluid temp got a bit too hot for me to complete the procedure properly. I'll revisit it tomorrow morning at the correct temp and make sure it's not over/under filled. Was just able to crawl under at that height. My stomach struggled for clearance but managed to squeeze in.

I usually DMOR but in this case I was hoping someone would spoon feed me. Thanks for the link Johnny 😉

I wonder what the chances are of the nozzle getting stuck open and potentially hydrolocking the motor or bending a rod. Is that a thing or is there some sort of failsafe. How does a WMI system operate? I also wonder how triggering would be set up? Being a diesel, it's almost always on boost.

Ouch. Knowing my luck, this is probably what would happen. I think I'll just stick with the catch can idea.

That's not a bad idea at all. Just water will do enough I reckon. BRB, going to look up WMI kits.

So we've caught up now and are pretty much up to date. Today, decided to pull the intake pipe and check how much gunk is there and give it a clean. Clean diesel they said. Um, yeah. Clean diesel, my arse. After some mucking around with degreaser, rags and scrapers, we're looking much better. In future, will run a can of intake cleaner at every oil change. Forgot to take a pic of the intake manifold entry, too much gunk on my hands. May have to rig up a catch can to try and reduce some of this shit. An egr delete would fix it, unfortunately it's not that simple. The dpf won't regenerate with egr turned off, a dpf delete would also be required. I'll cross that bridge only if I need to. Anyway, CLEAN Diesel. Sure😂

No haldex for SQ5. Quatro all the way baby. Speaking of fuel. This things been returning around 9l/100 around town, under 7 on the freeway. Worse I've seen is around 10. Pretty damn good power vs fuel economy.

Thanks Dan👍 Thanks. Tuning, shop. Never,lol. I just want this thing to be all schmick. OBDeleven is great, especially for latest gen VAG but I already had VCDS and I refuse to pay subscription fees and this new credits scheme they've got. Did you get yours before that crap started. Re launch control. I think my engine mounts may have something to say about that 💩

Didn't want to waste time fitting the injector if it was dodgy. To rule that out, it was taken to a diesel injection specialist and properly tested. I also got them to check if it was a legit OEM injector or some crappy refurb unit. On thorough visual inspection and flow testing it was confirmed as a brand new perfectly functioning OEM injector. They also gave me a new copper crush washer seal which they say is better than the Audi one it came with. Has more surface area. I paid them $40 for their time and then headed to the Audi stealer to pick up a new injector stretch bolt and o-ring. $7 for the bolt and $8 for the o-ring. Bit of a rip off with the o ring but I'd rather use the correct part to avoid any possible issues. I then got to fitting it. Which wasn't too difficult, access was good. Just had to move the coolant overflow out of the way to make room for the sledge hammer puller to extract the injector. One of these Old injector, there wasn't much sealing washer left and you can see the combustion gases had gone up the shaft and eaten away the o-ring. Apparently it's the sealing washer wearing away that creates all the issues and leads to injectors failing. The gasses end up eating away the tip where it goes into the body of the injector. (Apparently) New injector This is the crush washer/seal. This is the OEM one, didn't take a pic of the upgraded one. The upgraded one is slightly larger and goes all the way to the edge of the shaft. Don't know why Audi never designed them like that. Was pretty straightforward to fit, the hardest part was cleaning the seat and bore hole, that took a while. I used a variety of home made tools for the cleaning and finished it off with a tiny wire wheel. Injector was fed in to it's home with upgraded sealing washer. I used the sledge puller in reverse and gave it a couple of light taps to get it seated right. The new stretch bolt was torqued to the correct 6nm, yes 6 plus 90°. New calibration values where then fed into the ecu. Fuel pump prime to bleed rail of air Car was now ready to start. Um, first time around, I hadn't actually seated the injector properly and didn't have a small torque wrench. That did not go well, car started but oil or diesel was pissing out. I revisited it the following day with a borrowed torque wrench and revised injector seating procedure and all was well and the injector gods approved. We now have these injector deviation readings. All injectors are now looking good. I expect the rail calibration points that show 0.0 to change as the ecu learns over the next couple of weeks. Injectors 2 to 6 have all been replaced now. Interestingly 1 and 2 which apparently haven't, look great. I'm wondering if they had possibly been changed in the past prior to the previous owner. I am considering pulling them and replacing the copper seals to the upgraded type to prolong their life. The condition of the old copper seals should give an indication to wether they're the original injectors or not. So this is how you Audi, as seen above that VCDS scanner is a must have if you own an Audi. Actually, for any modern car these days you've got to have your own dealer level diagnostic tool otherwise you get an absolute flogging going to stealerships and euro specialists. I see countless posts of dealer charged me $400 for diagnosis but still couldn't tell me which injector is the issue. Can buy the damn tool for those $ and have change. There is one caveat though, if you're mechanically retarded, stay away from these types of tools as you can also do some serious damage that will then require an extra deep stealership level reaming.

Free tickets, yeah and I'm Santa Claus. I've nearly covered 5000km since buying the SQ5. All was going well until last week, when it failed to start after sitting at a red light. Had to put it in park and then it fired up normally. On the drive home, I noticed the idle was a bit funny a couple of times and a slight hesitation at light acceleration in high gears. Hmm. Once home, I hooked up the VCDS and it told the story. Injector 4 has deteriorated significantly and is now way out of spec. The injector deviation had gone from -1 to around 6. There is a constant misfire now at idle. I knew this was coming but didn't expect such a rapid deterioration. Luckily it didn't get stuck open and fill the sump with Diesel which can happen. I had been scouring the net looking for replacement injectors, replacement Bosch which is the same as OEM Audi without the Audi logo and different part number are around $700 each. Genuine Audi from the stealership are nearly double that. I happened to come across a genuine Audi one being auctioned on eBay. I asked the seller a couple of questions, he was a little cagey, says he bought a few injectors as spares but didn't end up using this one as he sold the car. I considered the fact it could be a fake or dodgy in some way but decided to take the risk knowing I could always get a refund through PayPal if it wasn't legit. Managed to win the auction and got it for $370. It had been sitting in a drawer for the last couple of weeks. I procrastinated fitting it straight away, now I had no choice.

They only look like semi pp. Will they do all the braps?

We're about 2 years too late unfortunately. There's 50000 other Muppets raffleing, I mean giving away cars. That Adrian+ bloke would probably try to sue us 🤣

@r32-25t Challenge accepted?

They are awesome to drive. I would have loved to get a 2017 on. Much more current tech and choice of TT petrol engine. Unfortunately I ain't that baller. They're way out of my price range or the $ I'm willing to sacrifice if it all goes pear shaped.

I was feeling a bit YOLO bro and very brave when I decided to buy this.

@Ben C34yep, that's probably not too far from the truth. A lot don't even make it that far, lol. Although the 3.0TDI engines seem pretty solid. I've had a good run with the one in our Q7. Agree, filled for life is the biggest joke going around. To Audi, life = warranty period. 3 years.

The flange does look a bit like Mickey mouse, maybe Mickey mouse designed the thing too, lol. I feel your pain with the injectors. The ones for my Audi are around the same from the dealer. Thankfully in my case they're made for Audi by Bosch and you can now buy them from Bosch under a different part number. Still pricey but substantially cheaper. May be worth doing some research to see if there is a similar option for the BMW DI injectors.

After getting the car to Melbourne and getting a rwc and registering it, I went through the service history. There is no mention anywhere of a transmission service. It has a ZFHP8 in it. Audi says it's lifetime fill but ZF says 80-120k service intervals. My car had 150k on it, if it had never been done that's quite overdue. The shifts where still good but sometimes not as smooth as one would expect. The hunt for service items begins. Apparently only ZFLG8 fluid can be used but at $60 a litre I searched for alternatives. There is quite a few compatible ois available but most are fully synthetic whereas the ZF oil is a semi synth. Eventually I came across liqui Moly top tec atf1800 which is semi synth and a German product(probably make the lg8 for ZF anyway, maybe). Quite a few people have used it with success. I got a great deal on it from automotive superstore in Sydney, almost a 1/4 of the price of ZF fluid. Ordered 8 litres from them and a filter kit from eBay. The tranny holds around 9 litres but you can't get it all out in 1 go as lot of it stays in the torque converter. Around 4 litres comes out when you drain and remove the pan, 3.6ish in my case. All cleaned up with new filter VCDS scan cable, I've used this for years for my Q7, it's a very old version but is compatible and has been able to read and code things in the SQ5. Win. You then have to follow the refill procedure of filling it from the fill port on the side until it starts overflowing. Refit the bung and then start the car, select drive and reverse and let the wheels spin for a bit, one of the guides I was reading was saying to go through the gears, it wasn't possible on my car as the abs was cracking the sads and doing weird stuff. You also need to use a scan tool (VCDS or other) and monitor the trans temp. Once it's between 35-45° you need to get underneath again with the car running and top up until it overflows again. It's now full. In total I used 4 litres. A 2nd dump and fill now needs to be done. I've decided to drive it for a week or 2 and let the oil dilute itself properly before I do it again. Even with just 4 litres of fresh fluid it has made a big difference. The shifts feel a lot smoother and faster too. Next week I'll do the 2nd part. If the fluid that had originally come out was really bad I would have considered a 3rd fill but it looked ok to me. I did also use the VCDS to check the injector deviation which shows you how much correction the ecu needs to make to get the fueling right. As the injectors wear, the deviation becomes bigger and once it's too much the engine won't run right, hit limp mode or not run at all. Sure enough, no. 4 which was the one the euro specialist said was approaching the limits did stand out, it wasn't too bad and I decided to keep an eye on it while I try to source a replacement for non drug money. The deviations for all 6 injectors are the first 6 lines. The following 6 are calibration figures that I'm not too sure what the mean. There are 3 for each injector. I could only log 12 channels at a time, so I chose injector 1 (best performing) and injector 4 (worse) to compare.

Boost will remain standard for sure. It's more than enough. I'm too scared to even get this thing tuned, don't want to push my luck. I still might later on but leave boost as is and only increase rail pressure. The Garrett turbos interestingly are Italian made as are a lot of the other parts on the car.

Interesting factoid for you @Dose Pipe Sutututu I know you'll like this one. These things run 2.2 bar relative boost pressure stock. Yep 32psi. This part you may not like, Twins in compound arrangement. A GT30 feeds air into a GT17 used for quick spool up, various valves are used until full boost, then the 17 is bypassed and the 30 works solo. Check out the OEM heat management materials, looks the goods. I hope I never have to pull that crap out. Fingers crossed 🤞.