admS15

The bangs where quite good when the rev limiter was active. I just went and double checked my settings was 10% enrich and 35° retard. Pretty sure with the adaptronic that's not absolute. Eg if base timing is 15° advanced then -35 is 20° retarded. Correct me if I'm wrong sir. Of course I did until my across the road neighbour came over yelling and screaming, had to drive to somewhere secluded to continue. -35 was where I settled and was producing 10psi on the 2 step. The problem here has been the limiter not activating and the turbo making a shit load more boost and heat than 10 psi would.

Shhh, lol. Yes I'm partially retarded but commo bogan turned me into full retard momentarily. I think i had set it at - 40 to 45° The other thing I didn't mention is the 2 step part (rev limiter) which is set at 3500rpm didn't activate. So she revved pretty good. Probably my dodgy wiring. It is also possible the turbo bearings where on their way out. Anyway turbo is off to hypergear. We'll see what Tao says.

Bloody jinxed it. Decided to drive the skyline to work today. On the way home some bloke in a commo was giving me the thumbs up so decided to do an antilag launch. The car took off hard, then made a funny noise and sounded like a vacuum cleaner. I was meant to go get a hair cut but skipped out on that and went home to investigate. This is what was found, f**k. My luck seems to have run out. Will be dropping it off to hypergear for a rebuild.

Mmm, you made me hungry now. Will have to go sample one of those one day. Well those weights look much better with you in it. She is a bit of a porker but you do have subs, full tank, spare and other assorted crap in there too. Probably 1/2 a turn on a spring perch would get that to 50/50. So was that just put on the scale to get the weights and not adjusted at all to get optimum balance? If so, that's pretty damn good.

@Kinkstaah Yep, I followed the tried and tested sau traditional highflow set up. Has served me well. It's pretty basic but does the job. I saw the results and reliability John Richardson was getting with his car and based my mods off his with a bit more of a road going bias. For the corner weights. My car had full stock interior installed, just under a full tank of fuel but no spare or boot trim. Roll cage is also currently out. I figured leaving the rear seats in would compensate and be close to the same weight as the car in full track trim. I was also sitting in the driver's seat. I'm around 95kg. That makes the car weight 1406kg with almost full tank of fuel. Not bad. I think your cars cross weights can benefit from a bit of a tweak. Mine is within 1 kg. Fr 450 + Rl 305 = 755 Fl 428 + Rr 328 = 756 Yours Fr 422 + Rl 329 = 751 Fl 425 + Rr 344 = 769 Thats 18kg difference in the diagonal weight. Apparently it's the diagonal weight that is meant to be balanced. That's what the bloke that did my car was saying anyway. (Put an RB back in it, should balance out perfectly) 🤣 Ultimately 25% at each wheel would be best but that ain't happening on a skyline. Question. Are those weights with you sitting in the car? Assuming they are.

Saw your ad on gumtree, clever pricing. No offence but I hope it doesn't sell. Not yet anyway, too much effort has gone into it and I feel like you haven't really gotten to enjoy it over the years as much as you should have.

Yep, super duper happy. Skidding ability greatly increased and required effort decreased. Win win.

So, treat them like twins and put them in the bin. Got ya. Although I do have a barely used can of octopus grip tyre softener in the shed. Hmm, lol. Or I could just do some massive skids with them. That would be a fitting send off.

This is the dyno graph showing the vct off and power tapering off excessively. Before and after runs You can really see the power completely dying after 6k even the torque drops off significantly compared to the way the final runs. Don't really know what happened there. Vct being off shouldn't be making any difference to the top end. Either way, it's heaps better now. Starts pulling earlier, harder and keeps going.

Yeah, I really do believe the tyres where the problem unless the vct being turned off occurred at the same time, unlikely that would make 1.5 secs difference though. It is cool using these cars for what they're meant for but we're all kind of in the same boat with how the values have soared and risking major damage. I guess we just need to take a bit more care. They're not throw away cars any more. Yalla Habib, don't know about beast but she goes alright. Will definitely yell out for brake stuff when in need.

3 and a half years later, time for an update. Where to start? Well, car has pretty much stayed as it was except that it's now on Victorian club reg. Had to return certain obvious parts to stock for rwc purposes and other than dealing with some fools at Vic roads the process was straightforward. The new gearbox talked about in the posts above is no longer with us. It developed a whine from 1st to 4th on it's 1st track day. Dumping the oil told a sad story, was full of gold/brass flakes. Not sure exactly what but something broke. Box was removed and upon recommendation of the seller returned to Nissan under a warranty claim. It took a hell of a long time (8 months, I think they even sent it back to Japan), surprisingly the claim was accepted and a new box was supplied. Meanwhile I had sourced a 2nd handy from gumtree which turned out to be OK and is still fitted. Pre covid I bought a new set of tyres AR1's and tried to better my PB's at PI and Sandown multiple times but for some reason went backwards rather than forwards. Not sure why, tyres weren't totally fresh (around 70 weeks from prod date). So that has been in the back of my mind as a possible reason. Post covid, I haven't been to any track days, I think I did 1 in my rs265 megane. In the past few weeks I've decided to get the R33 ready for another attempt at going forward. First port of call was getting the alignment checked and getting corner weighing done. Settings now look like this. I didn't get a before but it wasn't too bad, toe on the right side was out a bit. Probably from kerb hopping at Sandown. The camber I had eyeball adjusted at home and somehow got both sides spot on at 3°. Yay. Corner weights are within 1kg on the diagonal with me sitting inside. Obligatory pic. As you can see, still looks the same. Next thing on the agenda was getting a dyno health check done by Trent at chequered tuning just to make sure everything is still as it should be. Was a good move as it was discovered that somehow some idiot (yours truly) accidentally turned the vct off. Power was obviously a little laggy but was also nosing over very early. Wasn't making the same power as before either. Previous output was 312rwkw and 475nm. After some tweaking everything was good again and a little extra torque rwkw was found. Ended up with jusr under 315rwkw and 512nm. Trent continued to make some adjustments and fine tuning and the car idles and drives so much nicer. An excellent job once again. There's still a few things to do. I've got some new cheapy rotors to put on the front. Current ones have little stress cracks. Some new dba t3 rear rotors and some circo m119 rear pads that I picked up cheap. Yes, it's still a budget build so I'm always on the lookout for bargains. I did splash out though on some $100 Castrol srf brake fluid, lol. Hopefully I will get out to Sandown in the next few months and see where Its at. Still deciding if I should get new tyres or not too. That pretty much brings us up to date I think. Sorry for potato quality pics. Currently using an old shitty phone.

2 of the big ones..

Do it and run a 10

The Matouks boys would be shaking their heads at this comment. Bipolar R33 gtst recently went 6.49 221mph 1/4 full bodied and still running irs rear end on 275's. I think that's the fastest 33 gtst in the world, also has sunroof. Covers off that record too. Lol. Yours should do an easy 10 with traction. I know, easier said than done. Sorry MLR for non bogan content.

f**k man, you have a real sickness. Et streets on 16's or even 15's will grip much betterer. Need that side wall big profile energy. Not sure if will look more or less bogan though.

This came up on my YouTube feed. Instantly thought of you.

Swap you a pack of Winnie blues and half a preserved cheeseburger from 1996. I'd sell mine and buy yours but then I'd have to go through the process you're potentially going to go through. Yeah nah, stuff that.

That's some mega dedication right there👍

Flames, I like the flames. Need to see more of the Garmin before I'm convinced it's good value.

https://autoaction.com.au/2022/08/19/wakefield-park-to-shut-the-gates-september-1st

No, have it sitting between tip of drill bit and hole to be enlarged. Just helps the bit cut smoother without grabbing onto the metal and jerking your wrists. Rough side down.

Pro tip from the now retired machinist at work. Use a bit of Emery paper on between the tip of the drill bit and hole, drill slow and smooth. Emery paper will help so it doesn't grab while it's cutting. I followed his advice and had no issues, took around 30-40 mins all up. Last hole took a bit longer as the bit was getting a bit blunt.

Everyone knows that's stage 37 stupid😂

You know what they say about leading a horse to water.. Let sigh, I'm out.

Alibaba is wholesale. Minimum 100 pieces. It doesn't seem like there are many reliable options for your part. I have also used amayama in the past and they where good.