MerlinTheHapyPig

i love my 4-dr 32, much prefer it over a 2-door! http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh2.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh1.jpg

load axis is usually a calculation based on AFM voltage...

um, doesn't really make sense to me. I haven't used powerfc before, but i was under the impression that it used afm only nissan ecu doesn't have a map sensor input, where does it read MAP from?

how do you mean? Normal Power FC's use AFM, there is a version that uses a MAP sensor, but they don't use both. Wolf3d v4 for example can run either MAP or AFM or TPS, or a combination of two of the above.

power fc only shows water temp i disagree with what you say on water temp. It's very useful because it tells you when to take a break (or when you need to upgrade radiators). The stock gauge won't distinguish between 80deg and 100deg, usually 100deg+ is when you want to take a break. You don't want to have to wait until the stock temp gauge reads H because it's usually too late when you get to that stage. mind you, last time i was at winton, it must have been 30deg, and stock r32 gtst radiator held up great. (91deg was highest all day, though i was cheating and had the heater going)

well, fitting 20's on any car is gonna have problems! why do you need rims that big?? it's just stupid... Your problem will be due to the profile of the tyre being too high (e.g. rolling diameter is too big) - if it's rubbing on the top of the tyre Or. offset of the wheels isn't low enough and it's rubbing on the side wall of the tyres pick whatever size tyre suits the rims you buy (diameter and width of rim), make sure the rims you buy are in the correct offset...

road tune is good enough for SAFC, if you can borrow an wideband o2 sensor If you cant borrow o2 or can't be bothered tuning it yourself, take it to anywhere that does tuning. 1 hour max dyno time and it should be sweet, that's usually $100-120 or so at most places

i didn't need to cut the hose or anything, my hoses were fine, so i didn't replace them the one i got sold didn't have the 90deg bend, (same filter, but both lines were straight) so it didn't fit in the bracket properly. still does the job though.

kaaz oil has the correct additives in it i assume. did you follow the proper bedding in instructions? you are ment to change the oil right after you bed it in i think.

I think we've had this argument before.... but anyway.. different ecu's (such as powerfc) may have a different implementation, but speaking for the stock ECU the stock ECU uses TP for load, which you have confused with throttle position, TP in this context is not throttle positon, it's Theretical Pulsewidth This calculation is based on RPM, AFM voltage and a few other constants (injector k value, number of cylinders etc.) On stock ECU's, this is the X axis, whilst the Y axis is RPM and the Z axis is fuel enrichment/enleanment the theoretical pulsewidth is the injector pulsewidth required to deliver 14.7:1 afr, the values in the table are enrichment or enleanment from this based on the RPM From reading a few other posts in this thread, it seems that other ecu's use different sort of calculations for the "load axis", it's not "just afm voltage or map sensor voltage" don't worry about throttle position, though most ecu's use this for acceleration enrichment (e.g. quick bursts of full throttle)

how did you get that? sr20 pfc only has water temp --- anyway, as far as gauges go. I'd be going oil temp, water temp, oil pressure, boost. and it's not just rice factor. It pays to keep an eye on things, because the stock gauges aren't too great. If you're gonna get oil temp or oil pressure, you may as well get both because they will connect to the same fitting (usually sandwich plate on oil filter) Though i do find it amusing when you see the old riced up non-turbo lancer with like battery voltage, monster tach and shift light...

i haven't really bothered with good diff oil since i have a welded diff, but if i had a mech, i'd be using Redline oil. Just double check that whatever you go for has the friction modifiers for an lsd

oil world sold me redline gearbox for $100, but that was almost a year ago. It's funny, you put it in, and don't really notice much difference, it takes about a week to really start working, it must take a while to get into all the gears and what not. or maybe i'm just imagining it! redline gearbox oil is pretty high on my list of "good mods" I have had a leaking gearbox reverse switch (i think) for a while now, i really should fix that, it's like liquid gold! $5 a drop

"load" isn't just the boost, it also takes into account RPM and a few other factors (see my previous post) -- for stock ecu, i don't know if djetro powerfc's use a different formula

Actually, i have found, if you have a look at actual data it doesn't really make much difference. The load calculation that the ECU makes is also influenced by the engine RPM (if you look at actual calculation for TP), so the calculated "LOAD" figure will still increase even when you are at full boost. (it is then referenced on a graph of TP vs RPM, so RPM is really used twice here by the looks of things!) Personally, i think AFM's are fine, but they do pose a problem when they run out of resolution, or the AFM poses a restriction on the intake. MAP sensors are handy because their resolution is only limited by the amount of boost it can read (typically 50psi or some insane value) I think it would be rare for a skyline motor to exceed the voltage limit of a Q45 afm, but i'm sure it's been done before. Maybe look at what some of the top GTRs in japan use for engine management and make a decision based on what the experts use.

why avoid the wolf? they are quite similar in specs to the SM4

how does "bending" afm signal change timing? i thought SAFC's could only adjust fuel

usually these problems will eventually require gearbox rebuild or replacement. but alot of people have had success using Redline Lightweight Shockproof gearbox oil in their skyline boxes which seems to eliminate minor crunching in alot of cases. in any case, i'd be using redline oil regardless of whether it crunched or not, it's great stuff!

mercedes use 5x112mm stud pattern from memory, they won't fit on skyline hubs (5x114.3)

I would see how you go with current setup before spending money on upgrading (which could be better spent elsewhere) what tyres are you using? usually tyres tend to be more important, so unless you are getting obvious brake fade i'd be investing money on tyres instead.

from r32 engine manual compression is as follows for rb26dett standard 12.0 kg/cm2 = 170.7psi limit 9.0 kg/cm2 = 128psi variance between cylinders 1.0kg/cm2 = 14psi according to these specs, your engine is fine, though it is close to limit (128psi) i comp tested a motor in the cordia i just bought (daily driver), which had suspect blown rings was 95psi / 100psi / 165psi / 165psi <- that's when u gotta start worrying!!!

pm me if you want to sell safc.... i'm after one for my daily driver

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm cooler leak ey... (should have thought of that...) i'd say that's the answer. my cooler hangs lower than front bar, and i hit it on the side of a gutter the other day (popped hose on bottom of cooler) and from memory, i think this noise started shortly after i fixed that, so i'd say that's the problem. I have a new cooler kit ready to go on in a week or so, so hopefulyl once i fix that it'll go away.

fairly audiable, you can hear it with windows up, and it's probably loud enough for people walking past to hear, but not really loud add.. best way to describe the noise, it sounds like a power saw sawing through wood. it's really wierd, anyone else had this?

as per the thread title. My car has begun to make this high pitched whining or whistling noise. It only happens on boost, so i've begun to suspect my turbo is on the way, like perhaps the noise is the wheel rubbing on the compressor housing or something. Any ideas? i would have said it was a aircon comrpessor or alternator on the way, but that would probably happen off boost. it only happens on boost (e.g. it won't happen at high rpm when decelerating)