MerlinTheHapyPig

get rims with correct offset... you can get bolt-on spacers, which make the wheel sit further out. but they're not technically legal www.garage-13.com can get them for you.

http://www.ebay.com.au/

probably aftermarket turbo's you went to are more laggy - due to heavier exhaust wheel (compared with stock ceramic wheel which is also smaller)

you probably let air get into the lines if the fluid went low enough. Or your master cylinder is f**ked. Re-bleed the brakes and see if that helps, if that doesn't fix it, you may need to reco your master cylinder. I'm assuming you checked the obvious. i.e. checked lines for brake fluid leaking etc.....

you could try using redline gearbox oil. It's expensive, but has been known to solve a lot of these sorts of syncro crunching issues.

u can post them to that place, i sent a pair up from melbourne, cost about $20 postage each way. You have to do them in pairs, cost is approx $150 per corner to do a base reco, just hope the shafts aren't damaged because that will cost more. The place in qld are highly recommended, they usually take about 4 days for a base reco + postage time. Call them to get a quote. Cheers, TK

stick between 2-3 degrees camber. depending on how much body-roll you are getting. more body roll needs more camber to compensate for it. But yeah, you'll start chewing tyres if you go too high.

blown coilover, needs a rebuild. check out www.shockreco.com.au or give it back to the guy you bought it from. usually damper is in the middle of top shaft, above bolt. You usually use a hex key to adjust and generally anti-clockwise = softer it's not the 19mm bolt

i use a stocko-welded diff in my r32, been drifting it once a week for 6 months now and it's still going strong. A welded diff will start to whine before it breaks -- as soon as that starts happening, swap it out, because as some1 else said, it's undrivable when it brakes. Getting it shimmed up is not worth it, it will act the same as welded for a while until shims wear out and then it will just single spin again. U may as well weld it. and just to add, I don't know anywhere you can buy mini-spools for skyline diffs, but that would probably be better than welded. Skyline driveshafts and diffs are very strong and last ages if you weld them.

poles/fences/walls/ripple strips/gutters...... whatever man drifting with worn viscous is not pretty because it's unpredictable, and it can open up when you don't want it to -- this can cause understeer, and if you're heading towards a wall at the time, it's baaaad. In drift, you are constantly on and off throttle when drifting a corner, so it's not suitable to have the diff unlock when you lift off throttle. yeah, wouldn't use a 2-way for circuit. but for drift 1-ways are really bad, because they open up as soon as you back off throttle, which is not what you want. If i had $$$ i'd get a 2-way, but for now, the locker does it's job. Once the diff breaks, ill get a 2way, but it's been going strong for 6 months of drifting at least once a week.

$1,250 is a good price for cusco. You can get a kaaz 2-way a bit cheaper (around $1,100) from some of the sponsors (nissansilvia.com) Diff is most important thing for drift, if you are using a viscous.... then you're likely to have a date with a pole sooner or later. Think of it as a safety device!!! worn viscous can be very dangerous. anyway, it's great to just get out there and give it a go, drift has always been known as something anyone can get out there and do, with a relatively cheap car / setup.

oops, forgot to add, i also have alloy subframe spacers (pineapples). inclined for "drift" Nathan, what diff are you using?

yeah, with setting up a car from drift. Generally bad idea to just change everything all at once. ie you see cars which have every sort of adjustble suspension component known to man, and if you install them all at once, it is hard to tweak it to get the right settings. Here is the order I did things setting up my car, which i have no problems drifting. 1. Height Adjustable Coilovers (came with car, shocks needed a rebuild, was getting a lot of body-roll) 2. Welded Diff (essential, my viscous was worn out to hell) 3. Castor rods (+9 degrees castor, heaps better steering) 4. Front and Rear Strut tower brace (front didn't make much difference, but difference with the rear on was significant, was understeering a lot less 5. Better Coilovers (Quantum, just got full recondition) Aside from that, stock, with standard wheel alignment settings for toe, camber. Height is lowered a bit, but not too much. The car is of course, still under development, but it's at a stage where I'm drifting easily -- not as good as it could be, but im not having any serious handling problems. Next steps are 6. Hicas Lock (probably should have done this earlier, but not causing me any problems getting it sideways) 7. Aftermarket Tie Rods (more steering lock) 8. Camber Arms There was a while there where I was drifting with rooted suspension, locked diff and castor rods that i'd borrowed from a friend. And was going ok. Car got off the boat from japan, first mod i did was lock the diff up and then drift the thing. best cheap mod ever!!!! anyway, my basic point is. Keep it simple, then start expanding, that way you can get used to each mod and what particular settings will do to the handling. And I don't think this just applies to drift, but for any suspension set up. Using an off the shelf "package" with recommended setup, won't suit some drivers, I prefer to set things up myself, and just experiment with things until I find something that works. That's hard to do when you have a package that's already to set up, say if you find it too snappy, where do you start? -- edit, anyway just to add. Car setup, is one part of it, the rest of it's technique.... grab a copy of Drift Bible, it has some useful technique tips for dealing with cars with inherent understeer or inherent oversteer.

If your car has a drum handbrake ------------------------------ you need to adjust the drum brake on each side, so it brakes the same when you pull the handbrake. If you go down a quiet street (private road of course...) and pull up the handbrake, it will pull to one side if they are out of balance. so if it pulls to left, back off the adjuster on the left brake (or tighten the adjuster on the right brake). handbrake adjuster is part of the drum brake, so if you take of wheel, it is behind disk, there is usualyl an access hole (which will have a rubber grommet in it) which if you rotate disk to right spot, u can get to the adjuster mechanism with a flathead screwdriver to turn it a few clicks. if disk handbrake, usually can be adjusted under the centre console, you will see 2 cables for handbrake, both of them have adjusters on them.

yeah, skylines don't like being lowered too much, it's pretty easy to obtain optimal handling with retaining around 10cm ground clearance at lowest point. Unless you have a really steep driveway, or very low body kit, it probably means your car is too low to handle correctly anyway.

run as much castor as possible. steering will feel heaps more responsive, 200% improvement for drift imo, running spherical bearing castor rods with +8 or +9 degrees castor. shouldn't make it heavy, maybe your steering rack /ps pump is worn out or something. Go the 4-dr r32!!!

true, but for spraying a front bar. not much to screw up. u can spend 3 hours doing it and it will be perfect. so depends on how much they charge per hour, and what paint they use. Plus you mentioned your cost included some modifications, so hard to compare what it would cost for just the respray...

it's your air-flow meter my guess is you are using a HKS foam-style filter (power flow) or something similar. If you have a friend, try swapping afm's to test it. I had this problem with the rev's going 1k-2k-1k-2k but only happened after driving for a bit. changing afm fixed it.

$500 is way too much There is a place in bayswater that will respray an entire car in 2-pak oven baked enamel for $599..... Expect $100-150ish for just a front bar, just get a few quotes. Front bar is easy-as, because you can take the whole thing off the car, and don't have to remove any trims or anything. Just go around a few panel beaters, and get some prices. don't pay $500, a front bar isn't hard to do at all.

if u have racv roadside assist, u can get them to tow the car... or try push starting it maybe The gear that starter motor pinion engages with is what i meant. did the gear/pinion on the old starter look f**ked?

that sounds like big end bearing to me heard it happen to ca's, hopefully it will be a gasket, but i doubt it...

perhaps you should look at the pinion that the starter connects with, it could be damaged. If you had a gearbox put in recently, get the place that installed your gearbox to come and have a look at it for you. As for the other problem, could be AFM maybe

common problem, usually caused by aftermarket steering wheel some alarms do this, read turbotimer manual Try changing gearbox oil, use Redline Lightweight Shockproof -- this "liquid gold" is known to fix many gearbox problems like you describe. Cheers

ah yep... sorry for the cynical reply there.. was in a bad mood! it won't be a problem, when you start the car, oil will run through the lines and fill up the filter. when car is off, oil drains out of the filter/lines into the sump anyway.

Get rid of the hicas first. Then you can start to narrow down where your problem lies. But a fair bet, stock shocks & springs won't be helping... If you have access to tiens, maybe just try them out and see how you go. Though in japan they tend to be known as poor mans adjustable coilover -- but they can take a beating...