MikeR34GTT

+1, loose 12v or ground perhaps

Now I'm torn between getting a flush and thermostat vs just getting a new radiator. Stock rad has been fine for me ever since I've owned the car. Worried money from the flush/Thermo could just be going to a new rad

Yeah, I found this one just now from Kudos http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/coolant-thermostat-nissan-skyline-25gt-25gt-25gt-rb25de-rb25det-p-423.html which should be fine. Just didn't know if most just went to supercheap (I fu&@$ing hate supercheap) and grabbed a generic one. What's a typical price for a flush would you know? I'm not an expert, but I'm not a beginner, just don't want to get ripped. Expecting 100-120?

Noticed yesterday driving home on the highway, that my water temp was just shy of the second line, right before the H line (aka bloody hot) and the oil temp sitting just at half. Has been really warm in Victoria here, but I've done a little research and was just looking for a few opinions: 1. Looking at replacing the thermostat first as I know the car had its 100k timing belt/water pump done from the previous owner - is there a specific thermostat I should be using? Part number would be great. 2. Having the radiator completely flushed, cleaned and replacing the thermostat professionally (hence wanting them to fit the right one) - how much does a flush usually cost? I have recently fitted a POD (Apexi Power Intake) and am waiting on my cold alloy housing, so is the POD sucking in hot air also a contributing factor or no? If there's anything else I'm missing here, fill me in. Driving a R34 GTT 2001, basically stock.

Digging up an oldie here, but how did you go? I'm also looking at a turboback system to replace the stock one on my 2001 GTT and have heard many people just going with an R33 turboback and getting a shop to weld/fit etc. will this actually work/viable option?

The stock setup cannot handle that much boost or is it just a case of 1. Exhaust and 2. Boost increase?

Hey gents, have done a little digging into trying to find out about actuators after a member here suggested I fit an R32 Actuator or HKS Adj Actuator to increase my boost slightly (min 10psi to 12psi max). Was wondering how I could go about making the purchase I.e where I can grab one, how difficult it is to fit etc for the both (have read the HKS might not be so flash at 10psi) Running stock boost, only modifications I've made so far are an Apexi Power Intake and Splitfire Coils. Starting out small but enjoying myself! Still planning to upgrade to a catback as part of my stage 1 noob mods.

junkie, no mate, all stock standard, drained old oil, replaced old filter, filled up with new stuff as my previous oil was still pretty good, but thought I'd be economic and get the 6L for cheaper, without realising if poured the whole 6 in.

Been siphoning from the sump but I'll get some out then it'll stop and I won't get any more but the dipstick is wayyy above high. Keep siphoning from the dipstick until I get a somewhat normal level? Start car, don't start car?

Need some expert advice here guys because I am totally lost here and am going to attempt to get into my mechanic tomorrow. Doing my routine oil filter and oil change after every 5k. Bought a 6L Nulon 10-40 instead of the 5L and as the last drop went in, I'd just realised I'd put the whole lot in.. okay.. relax, drained some out but definitely not 6L worth. The dipstick still reads way above high and the engine is running like absolute shit. That, plus my automatic transmission is now playing up, the A/T light comes on and I struggled to get it back to my driveway. The first issue had it flash a few times, the second had it stay but I can turn the car off and on and it goes away, but engine is still rough as guts. Any ideas?

Hey guys hoping someone can help me out here. Doing my every 5k oil filter and oil change, everything is going as per normal until I realise that I bought the 6L Nulon 10-40 instead of the 5L and the whole lot went in. Noticed it was running really rough after that so I've proceeded to drain it, but now my A/T light has come on and it's running poorly. Any suggestions? First run A/T was on, turned the car of then it came on flashing but then went away - R34 GTT 2000

I actually went to fit these the other day, and the two lights directly left and right of the rear plate aren't working and I can't figure out why for the life of me. The light directly above however does work... weird?

^ this Thanks guys for the feedback. Sounding a bit more cosmetic/personal opinion the more I read into it. I'm just taking baby steps at the moment so I might give it a crack.

Sounding pretty unanimous here guys!

^ I gather you know your shit (no pun intended) after that response when it comes to this stuff You run Splitfire also?

Yours looks well done mate! Thanks for the reply too. Any recommendations on what I should be looking at then, pod-wise?

Morning SAU'ers! So I've done a good two hours of reading old forums and Google researching, gathering info on replacing my panel filter for a pod filter with heatshielding and just wanted a fresh opinion and some solid advice on a few things: The kit I'm looking at: http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/131506420269(from JustJap) The heatshielding I'm looking at: http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/201497303357 - Why mod? It's my first skyline (2000 GT-T), and basically first car I've started to tinker with and honestly, I really enjoy it. I'm 26 and never really been mechanically minded but ever since the purchase and some of the involvement/advice I get on here, it's now a dedicated hobbie. I've also read a bunch of panel v pod forums and I want to see if there's any difference in the two. - Also, wanting to know how to go about installing a dedicated cold air intake that is directly exposed to the pod (someone mentioned piping from under the car to the pod) - The legality of this as Vic law states one intake mod only but my turbo is factory so it doesn't/shouldn't count? I'm also fully licensed 2000 GT-T running stock boost, unmodified apart for the strut bars and the Splitfires I'm about to fit this weekend. Any advice is welcomed! (:

Digging this up, my bad - But I just received my Splitfires last night for my GTT and noticed the instructions said some ignition knocking could occur? Anyone experienced this or have any pro tips for installation? I was reccomended to gap my plugs back to standard, currently 0. How did you go mate?

Old thread, but I'm hoping people are still using this valuable information - I did my Autotechinca boost gauge today for the first time as a bit of a trial and could not have done it without this information - take a bow sir. p.s took me all f$@&ing day haha Thanks!

Old thread, but I'm hoping people are still using this valuable information - I did my Autotechinca boost gauge today for the first time as a bit of a trial and could not have done it without this information - take a bow sir. p.s took me all f$@&ing day haha Thanks!

Latrobe Valley, Victoria - had a recent cut and polish done, cherry glaze etc (came up a million bucks) and spike of the lights, was quoted 100 per light. Sound about right? Not sure if that's interior or exterior. I know some of these guys are just gonna be like "get new ones" but id rather have a crack at another solution before I dish out bulk coin because they are quite expensive

Hey Cadmoon, am I going to be right to re-gap already previously gapped plugs? As they were a 1.1 standard but I gapped down to 0.8 - only had them in for around 3000ks. These are the NGK BCPxxxES

Hi guys, done a bit of searching around on the internets and here for my very small, cosmetic annoyance problem. One of the lights situated right next to the number plate on my 2000 GT-T is severely cracked and they are both that crappy yellowy colour, they are also pretty big. Was wondering if someone could suggest a place I could get replacements, even a darker shade/smokey as my paint, rims ect are black. Such a small thing but a thing nonetheless

You sir, are a gentleman - noted! Let you know how it all goes!