MikeR34GTT

That'll do the trick on stock shocks for now? I was thinking about springs on stock shocks for a month or two, then fitting some aftermarket shocks (KYB I'm yet to track down for a 34)

Still achieve the lowered legal limit and be okay handling-wise for what I need? Might look into this if so! NB: Teins from the UK we're gonna set me back $300 + $160 postage

Don't supposed you could link me KYB'a for a 34/GT-T? KYB part locator wasn't helpful and an eBay/net search gets me as close as an R33. Im looking into a set of TEIN S lowering springs from the UK instead of the Kings.

Solid feedback! Thanks guys! I'll look st those options and see how I go Merry Christmas!

Lowering GTT Coupe / Coils & Springs Alright gents, I need some genuine advice on something that must've been covered 1,000 times and I'm still hearing two arguments after doing some reading for the past two hours. Objective: lower my stock R34 GT-T to maximum legal limit (legit, it's like a patrol at the moment) Budget: $800-$1000 including install Want: lowered look with comfort but not wanting race-quality stuff. Car is a daily and I do a lot of highway driving Conflict: springs are cheap and will lower to what I want but will kill my shocks. Coilovers are great but don't necessarily want to spend 2k on suspension just for a daily Really really unsure which way to go here, but I see a ton of lowered 33's around my town and they all go springs/shocks and have no complaints. I'm smart enough to know that the poor man pays twice so I need some suggestions with the above information. Is there an in the middle option between spending bugger all on lowered springs to achieve what I want then getting smashed around and paying later for it, and entry level coilovers that'll probably do things I don't necessaryily need them to do? Thoughts?

+1 for this tute - just finished on my R34 GT-T which took me around 4 hours. For anyone else looking to follow this and save themselves a fair whack of coin, you'll need patience and for the love of god, a magnetic tip Phillips head screwdriver! Trust me!

Now at this point and cannot get this housing off for the life of me. It's like it's all one unit and wants to take the fan and Evap unit out as one whole piece

Heater Core Replace Hey all, Just after a bit of a yay or nay here, but this weekend I'll be following the mint tutorial on here to replace the heater core without removing the dash, before I jump into it tomorrow, wanted to confirm that these pics attached are the heater (1) and aircon (2) lines that I have to remove (and cover so stuff doesn't get in there. Ive already had the car de-gassed so I'm pretty much right to go. anything I'm missing here? The tute is for a 33, but I imagine it'd be relatively the same

Managed to get another heater core from Jack at Jack Phillips JDM which is on its way. Took her for a spin today and she overheated something fierce so until the part comes in, I'm just considering re-routing the hoses and topping up with coolant. Are these the hoses I'll have to re-route?

GTT Heater Core Hi guys, So I'm about 97% sure my heater core is cactus (white mist in cabin when the heater is on without actually getting much heat, coolant in passenger side footwell, smells like melon in/outside my car, coolant leaks from pipe going into passenger side firewall, yeah you get it). I was going to just follow the beaut tutorial that a majority of SAU's use on here when encountering this problem, but im having a hard time trying to track down a place to buy a brand new replacement other than used ones on ebay (and I hate buying parts from ebay). Am I missing something here or is this just one of those parts thatre hard to come by now? Thanks in advance! Think ive got my work cutout for me with this one

Alright gents, new JJR OEM rad, replaced thermostat & rap cap, full coolant flush, replace and system bleed has rectified my overheating problems (so far, need some warmer weather to really trial this). hopefully this will help anyone else with this problem and not to immediately jump to a head gasket conclusion

About to refill the rad and bleed the system.. what's the proper way? Use the two bleed screws as I add coolant or the old Coke bottle in half trick?

As in full of little dents and creases, full of dirt and bugs and there's a huge black area like it's burnt out. Ive got a JJR OEM style replacement on the way I'll fit tomorrow and report back.

Rad is absolutely cactus. Not having much luck finding an aftermarket replacement for auto, that fits the stock shroud, and has the two oil cooler nubs for the auto box.

GTT Radiator Query Hello fellow SAU'ers, Hoping you guys can help after not finding any conclusive answers on this one after some research (or I just don't get it) My stock rad died recently, which was the obvious cause to my overheating issues, and was wondering what the actual go is for finding an alloy replacement. Budget is around $200, have been told no bigger than 42mm or I'll need to trim the shroud and it's an auto so I need the oil connects for the auto box. Correct? Can anyone verify this one that's been reccomended to me: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270948181614 Or even if anyone has any other suggestions/links etc. Car is my daily so I don't want to order one, thinking it's what I need and it actually isn't! cheers!

Will try this and report back - mates are saying it could even be a head gasket? Seriously? Defintely still running fine, no white smoke etc. possibility?

Hello fellow SAU'ers, After a bit of advice on my R34 GTT that had just overheated last Thursday suddenly, to the point of the H-line on the water temp (I panicked so bad) and what my first course of safe action should be? Problem: overheating according to high water temp and oil temp at half way on stock gauges Observation: overflow tank full (but dirty), no coolant in radiator which I checked tonight as I've not been driving it since, water pump and thermo replaced at 110k, I am the second owner now at 170k - I have the original service papers to back this up. No visible leaks, although after hours of driving on Thursday, noticed leaks when coming home, I was stuck for time but at a quick glance have not noticed any cracked or burst hoses and thought this may have just been the overflow kicking in. Action: I have a new Nissan thermostat to go in, was initially going to remove my rad, take it to Natrad for flushing/cleaning, bleeding the system (myself) with distilled water and whatnot at the same time and replacing the thermostat (myself) also. Would this be a safe route to take before just handing over the whole car to NatRad and them slugging me $600 when I could have just fixed, eliminated or even alleviated some of my problems? Cheers

Where did you order these from, dude? Those UK ones?

I'm a bit late here, but you are an actual godsend. <3

I'm looking into these also, just so damn expensive. I think there was a package deal on eBay for a Melbourne crowd to order, fir & paint the whole lot (rear, skirts & front) for close to 2.8k

Thought so but I wouldn't say for sure, thanks mate. Is this something I could potentially DIY or best a mechanic does it for me? I'm adept in skill level (do my own servicing, plugs, coils etc), not a noob but not a freak either.

This is a bit of a stab in the dark, but I'm hoping someone has had a problem like this before and it's an easy fix (if only everything were an easy fix with cars). For about a month or so now, I've noticed a squeak-like noise that is repetitive whilst the car is running and most noticeable in a closed area (such as my garage or hungry jacks drive through haha). Have noticed that it's more prominent around the belts/pulleys near the alternative/behind the fan and was wondering if this could be a belt on it's way out, a bearing etc AND if I engage the high-beams/extra power use, it gets a lot louder. My engine and bits are in great condition, service my car myself regularly so this is a huge bummer for me as it makes it sound that little bit more ugly and it's a pain to get into my mechanic, often needing to book two weeks in advance (with a chance he'll just be like *WD40 spray* $80 please). Any pointers guys? Cheerio, Mike

Hello my favorite people (most of you anyway), Finally upgraded my GTT with a catback system (Venom Cat with a 3.5 Xforce System) and ever since then, I've noticed alot of backfiring which isn't severe, just very consistent - more so when letting my foot off the accelerator, and I don't even have to be flogging it to get it to backfire, probably 2/5 times. Fuel economy is also a bit so so, it's not bad but I think I could improve it a little. I've read into this a bit and most of the advice of read into suggest I'm just running rich and the general way around it is to get her tuned, BUT, I've been advised I cannot tune a stock R34 ECU? Is there anything I can do to alleviate running rich/fuel economy also, like changing out the O2 sensor or running some injector cleaner through her? If tune is the only way, can I opt for a Nistune Chip over an AVCR because $1,000 + tune to combat the RR seems a bit overkill and my modding path doesn't include an aftermarket ECU (was actually planning for Nistune anyway - she's my daily so I dont want to rape her with mods) What do you reckon boys and girls? Cheerio!

I've had to bring myself from actually starting a thread for something so annoyingly measly, but it is a thing nonetheless. For ages now, I've been trying to find the front bumper fog light outer/housing on a R34 GTT with no avail, no part numbers ect. My only hope was to find down one wrecking a GTT and hope they didn't laugh at me when I request those plastic bits....(the black rectangle pictured, they sit about 3/4 into the bumper) Anyone able to be of help where I might be able to track a set down? Or new bumper is the only way?

Sold.