blackrb20silvia

1988 Toyota Cressida mettalic silver automatic GLX for sale owner is preppared to swap for a R32 skyline S13 silvia or 180sx The car was purchased standard 6 months ago the car is mechanically sound and unmoddified engine he is selling because he missed his boosted cars its just not suited to his needs anymore MODS ARE AS FOLLOWS resprayed a few weeks after purchase limo tint all round (except windscreen) 17" month old shodow chrome rims and rubber sony head unit sony 6"x9" rears sony 6" fronts 1200watt 4 channel amp 2x 12" cerwin vega subs all power options included steer mirrors windows cruise control air con bags up front with new shocks cans/ cylinders in the rear (can 3 wheel) 1/2" lines all through 2x tanks DC 5000 compressor playstation controller / also switches in center console 2x air gauges under head unit neatly mounted seperate purge switch LIFETIME WARRANTY ON ALL OF ALL THE ABOVE BAG AND CYLINDER PARTS 12 MONTH WARRANTY ON INSTALLATION (installed by http://www.airbagit.com/ ) only known Cressida in australia to be bagged for more infomation please call or TXT 0431419662 $15,000 more pics soon

cheaper at wreckers with 3 month warranty!!

yeah had those but must have been going on for a lomg time cuz i didint notice the power loss just thought i was getting used to the power i thought that being a custom manifold it would be sweet but there was a shiot effort to weld where it had cracked so i filled the gap with weld myself she wont leak from there again would this explain why i had terrible boost lag aswell??

hey people just a qiuck question what kind of symptoms would a cracked exh manifold cause the crack is bout a inch long bout 2 mm wide near the collecter near the turbo exh flange where it has been welded it looks like its cracked on the weld would this cause the car to be laggy it always has been with such a big turbo but i dont know how long its been there would this be affecting the performance of the car??? cheers Matt

ill vouge for the "shit in your pance factor" very scary when hitting boost almost racked 20gs on mine so if i had of known mate i would have taken yours

cheers ken i went through dave who rang bridgestone so dont know what the go is but thats what the lady at customer service said maybe she is ill informed and just could not find the listing then just said that they dont make them?? anyway way to expansive at $420 cost to him "if they had them" thanks ken PS what are they worth for 235 45 17? do you know

I had a friend ring bridgestone yesterday and they said that the re55s are no longer in production we asked to be put on to technical to ask for replacement but they must have been at lunch no one answered What would be equivilent (spelling) to the re55s in other brands??

SK i have no idea as you would know all tailshafts in imported Nissans have pressed in uni's when i pulled mine out the front uni it look like it had been modified this uni joint is actually smaller to the rest of the joints which has led me to believe that it was modified with some aussie car like a datsun 180b or 1600 front yoke and inu because it so small the actuall shaft looks modded to as there are clumps of weld that dont look like the rest of the shaft but all is good now prob sorted for now but will still be getting a tailshaft made will post the places name if they do a good jobbut for now i just want to drive i missed it any more suggestions cheers matt

thanks for all the help (sarcasim) lol....... solution having a custom tailshaft made with the strongest possible uni's out there (ie.. truck) and a soild one piece alloy shaft cut to custo lenght should be as strong as hell and lighter to boot cheers matt

hey guys just a question is there a way of strengthening the tailshaft and its components (ie...front and rear uni, yolk centersupport bearing ect...) i ask because last night with a quick run with a modded WRX i grabbed second on rev limit and dumped it hard on boost (only10psi) and SMASH absolutley destryed the front uni and actually damaged the floor pan (whoops 120km/h and 6000rpm and a lump of metal belting away under the car will do that) i was just wondering i have a new tailshaft coming but what is going to stop it from happening next time i know obviously not smashing gears but when i eventually get to circut race the stupid car i want reliable times so is there away to strenghen these parts or buy already strengthened parts or have custom parts made???? please help cheers matt

isnt this the same as loctite #3 (or otherwise known as aviation cement) loctite #3 is way cheaper and comes with a brush applicator used on my rear main and on plenum no leaks

got mine enginereed not a problem as long as its mounted sterdy and you have not cut out reinforcment that holds on the bar and the radiator support if all intack all will be good

check AFM connector or any damaged wiring around it this is very common as the AFM (air flow meter) is very sensitive cheers matt

id have to agree to a degree (lol) although this might be a once or twice off time anyway a friend of mine had a r32 which was preety well thrashed and had a new engine waiting with all new goodies as this was sitting on the floor he decided to experiment on how long a standard rb20 will last with as much punishiment it could take i mean this engine was running a huge truck turbo on 25psi everyday all day for nearly 2 yrs untill he got the new engine then came the real test no line on the wastegate unlimited boost this thing lasted 3 weeks before it died and all that happened was a broken ring in 6 and i think it spun a bearing this engine copped a hiding and from other friends that have rb20 in r32s running over 20psi everyday never a prob but like i said could be just a coincidence cheers matt

have already done clutch Xtreme heavy duty item best money i have ever spent

i ahve a feeling its the timing aswell as my car is not performing as it should have been told that if the timing is set to base timing then it needs to be advanced to take advantage of the mods it feels real gutsy till on boost at bout 5000rpm wastold that an advance in timing would bring the boost lag down a bit food for thought cheers matt

i sorted out most of my prob found that the turbo smart blow off valve is most likely after i dissconnected it i had allmost no drop in idle at all and never stalled connected it and again after pulling up at light ect.. it would stall and drop really low idle i opened the bonnet and reved the car and watched the BOV found that it was sucking in air because the valve would not fully shut so now its disconnected maybe the rest of the prob is the fuel pump as silvia pumps operate with a ground swith that at idle it drops the current to the pump so low that it cant operate properly (i have GTR pump) so on the weekend ill find the earth wire from the pump and run my own bigger gauge earth to a earth point in the boot hopefully it fixes the prob or ill have to run a new cable from the switch and new relay also with same gauge wire hope it works cheers matt

i guess my only prob with my box is it just doesnt like second round rev limit and bot 500rpm before that is all its just annoying trying to hold a slide then pop second and it s just like "he ha hmmmm get in there you son of a bi........." i lose all power cuz i have to come off throttle same in a straight line im sick of making a come back in third cuz i cant grab second fast enough it makes the car seem slow its like ppl are laughing at me (V8 tosses where i live) till ill blow past breaking traction in third (eat that bogans) but yeah i just wanted to know if they can replace rb20 boxes if its cheaper to get rebuilt then i will but it dont matter to much because i have to take all engine and gearbox out as one anyway (damn silvia tunnel to small) and innisane dont worry to much bout weight my car with 3/4 tank fuel spare tyre all interior only weighed 1220kg on the weigh bridge a standard 180 with all HICAS and all options weighs nearly 1240kg so 20kg in a box wont matter to much cheers matt

well im talkin bout putting the rb25 box in a silvia that allready has a rb20 so i hope it lines up as for tail shaft have heard rumours that the CA shaft and box where diff the SR oh well ill have to speak to a jap wrecker or something??!!

well that feels better i finally got the thread closed with rants bout the skyline http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...ic=18046&st=125 at least the forum administrator does'nt have tunnel vission and is slightly open minded cant say much for the majority of the bogans though

why did you start another thread when the one you origanally posted in is still going??? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...971#post1408971 have another look like i said in the other thread have you tried running the car with the electrical conector to the AAC off yet ????? as this seems to be the most common cause this will not effect anything at all on the car and no will not cause rich or lean although you might not know but every second the car is running its bouncing back and forth rich and lean every fuel injected car does!!

Check the air reg down where the injectors are.That may be dirty inside aswell.There is 2 10mm bolts holding it down and 2 fat hose's each side. __________________ is it square shaped type off thing? can anyone think off a reason why it will idle high when AAC valve conected but idles normally when its not???

hey guys just a quick question can a rb25 garbox be bolted to a rb20 does anything ahve to be moddified or is it a direct replacemant???? cheers mines screwed was going to get rebuilt but have heard rb25 boxes are tougher is this true? matt

i have a big t4 high flowed on a cutom manifold with externall gate run at 10 psi and yes it is very laggy real bad but when on boost holy shit at the moment i have a standard computer and standard injectors and AFM otherwise everything else is modded like GTR pump malpassi rising rate fuel pressure reg 3inch dump, exhaust intercooler blah blah at 10 psi i have no probs but anything over 12 i have bad fuel cut and all sort of shit (goddanm nissan failsafes always have to protect everything) but when i had the boost controller connected on 15 psi the boost lag was way better and on 25psi (accident wound down to far was fun but) it behaved better again so my conclusion is this every turbo has its efficiancy range you just need to find where it is as for mine when the computer arrives i will dial in a daily 20psi to get the meat of the turbo efficiancy see how long it lasts i have a spare block at home waiting for forged pistons and the lot or if it lasts a long time ill keep saving for a stroker as this is what the spare block was intended for.. sorry to hijack the thread i guess what i was trying to say is if you get a bigger turbo get it now and build around it i found this alot easier than say doing all the mods then finding my new turbo that is say only new and i need to go bigger just go bigger the first time but then it depends on what you expect from the car!@!

pull off the AAC valve (the four bolts 10mm socket) there will be a gasket there all should come off without breaking the gasket, once off get some carby cleaner or brake cleaner and spray into any visible holes try to seal some off with your fingers adn shake it round. What you are trying to do is free up the plunger that has been jamed in carbon and oil and all the other shit that enters the inlet then replace but this did not work for me i think i have a prob in the wiriing which is holdinig it open but i dont know just disconnected it then set the base idle cuz thats what the service manual says for setting idle Pull off conector to AAC valve then turn screw to set idle!!