DatsunBanana

Fitted my Walbro this evening. I fitted the GSS 341. In hindsight I think the 342 would have been better with the fuel input and output on the same side. It meant the pump was on a bit of angle in the cradle and I used a hose clamp and cable tie plus some fuel hose as a wedge to hold it steady and stop it popping out of position. Hopefully it'll stand up to it. I also had to cut the hard pipe on the cradle because the Walbro was too long to fit. Did any of you guys who fitted a Walbro have to do that? On the plus side, I expected to have to cut and solder the connector but I didn't need to which surprised me. The Nissan connector in the tank fitted straight onto the Walbro but is that what you've found?

Been thinking about this again as when I looked at buying the hose (braided hose) the end fittings aren't really well suited to joining on to a cut off hard line. And non-braided hoses don't seem up to the high temp at the turbo end. So now I'm thinking I'll use: Tee at the pressure sender with an-4 fitting plus 1mm restrictor. Braided hose to an-4 coupler and an-4 12mm banjo at the turbo end. Standard banjo bolt (not restricted). I also found this post which has an interesting point about adding another restrictor if you find there's too much oil getting through ... http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/21-tuning-technical-questions/216246-garrett-bb-turbos-restrictors.html Do you know if 1m of hose is long enough or does it have to be a bit longer? I see yours is 1200.

Hi. I've not fitted mine yet but I've got stock lines that I'm going to adapt. The feed line is just like your pic - a tiny hole (about 1mm) at the block and a bigger (4mm ish) hole at the turbo end. I'm going to cut the standard line and use the banjo with the tiny hole at the turbo end. I'll run back from there with hose to the tee at the oil pressure sender. So my restrictor will be at the opposite end than stock would be but I don't see that it'll make any difference which end the flow is restricted and I believe one end is enough - whichever it is. As long as there's a restriction in the line/eye somewhere, I can't see why you'd need a bolt with a small bore too. I've got all the important bits now so should be starting when the weather warms up here and will report back on how it goes.

A manifold for a turbo car has just one outlet - into the turbocharger. Blank that off and there's nowhere for the gases to go. Gases have to go through the turbocharger and then out of that through the elbow to the downpipe. An NA manifold outlet goes straight to the downpipe. There is (or at least there was) a supplier in NZ (partsco) doing a coby d12 header for NA skylines.

Aleks, how long was the hose for your oil drain. I need to buy a length of that and I'm thinking half a metre should be enough?

OK - that makes sense. For the last few weeks I've been regularly spraying WD40 on all the bolts/nuts I'll have to undo for this project. Hope that'll ease things a bit.

Aleks, just looking at the position of the nuts on the exhaust manifold. At least one seems impossible to get at with a socket. How did you manage?

Heads up for anyone reading this thread and looking for a DET ECU there's a couple on yahoo auctions Japan at the mo ... A manual currently at 2000 Yen and an auto at 6000 http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v478256366 http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d209093120

Yeah thanks. It's a bit mad what we have to pay for some stuff. You could get Skylines from Nissan dealers new in AU right? We only have imports (apart from a small number of GTRs) I've just waited patiently for the right deals to come along on secondhand parts. Some of the cheaper engines on eBay are without turbo and other ancillaries and then another time you'll see one with a gearbox for a couple of grand. It varies but you can see one of the reasons why I've gone the +t route on the NA engine.

Ah yes, another good point - exhaust. Forgot that as I already put a stock GTT cat back on a couple of years ago. Great that you have LSD - I want one. Mine had none of the nice options LOL. Hicas delete seems a popular mod anyway so probably not a make or break if you have it or not really. Be interesting to see what cost estimates all this comes to for the various options. Mine's definitely been a budget build. Apexi suspension, GTT exhaust, R32 GTR brakes came in at 350 GBP. All the turbo bits are on target to come in at around 5. Just a turbo motor would have cost me £1500 GBP minimum. To sell mine and buy a GTT might have cost me 3-4K at GB prices but would probably have managed to get a manual for that.

Yeah, these are good points Aleks makes about changing over other DET bits too and there's a lot of those. NAs won't necessarily have extra bits like traction control, hicas, lsd. The suspension, brakes and fuel pump will be different (R34 NA suspension is same as R33). Have you upgraded your brakes and suspension first - or at least plan to do at the same time? These are all pretty important for the extra power and add to the cost which might make selling and buying a GTT a more economical option. Fortunately I did all that ages ago and got very good deals on the parts.

For me doing this will be about the cost and the challenge. On the forum you'll find other threads including 666DAN's thread which (if you enjoy a lengthy read) shows that some guys ran conversions successfully long term. Parts have cost me a third of the price of the cheapest NEO DET engine. If you want bigger power then an original DET engine has way more potential. There's lots of info about taking the right precautions to stop them blowing up - hopefully it's right :-) If you can afford it and potentially want to chase bigger power in future then you're probably doing the right thing dropping a motor (and ECU) in. You'll probably want a matching gearbox too if you want longevity.

Or there's this ... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BRASS-MALE-BSPT-HOSE-TAIL-FITTING-CONNECTOR-1-4-3-8-1-2-3-4-1-GAS-WATER-OIL-AIR-/141926014965?var=&hash=item210b731ff5:m:mMyxf5-t7cIdny8nj0HFCUw From UK, says they'll ship to Canada.

If it helps I could get one here and send across - I think the part was about 5 GBP. Or a different one from the UK if you wanted an AN fitting end. Postage is about 5 GBP untracked and 10 GBP tracked (7-10 days) and you could paypal me. Probably best to wait for confirmation though from Aleks or wait till I fit mine. I decided against an angled one cos I thought once it tightens on the tapered thread, the angled part might be pointing the wrong way. BTW - did you get the ECU?

Not sure till I take it apart. I think I'll order a new one before I start that.

No - unfortunately no welding experience. BTW, did you buy new exhaust manifold gasket or could you get it up and running first with the original one?

I'm happy to be corrected by someone but I'd say get as much rust as possible off using a sanding or wire brush attachment in a drill and then some sort of treatment or inhibitive paint. That's why I got a couple of "Hammerite Direct to Rust" spray cans although I'll probably treat the rust too with one of the branded treatments. In this climate we get plenty of surface rust as you can see from the photos - makes yours look like a show car.

Yeah the horns fit fine I also took the top one off to do the work but then put it back after. I did at first put some bends in the top one's bracket to set it back a bit but in the end it was fine so I straightened it up again. Here's a pic, there's about a centimetre of clearance between the horn and the intercooler. Yep I'll protect the intercooler and piping from any metal edges and will also put a bit of paint on the bare metal - yellow Hammerite is a pretty good match for my car lol so going to respray the reo bar with that too.

Great pics. So that's what the back of the cylinder head looks like LOL. Here's what I got up to today. After getting the intercooler in place and marking up I took an angle grinder to the reo bar which was a lot easier than I expected. I cut the holes for the intercooler piping in the inner wing. The Blitz kit uses the standard holes so was just a matter of drilling them out. I used a 76mm hole saw and good old Nissan have even centre punched ready for the pilot drill. I also started work on cutting the inside plastic of the bumper. I used the angle grinder and a saw right where there was a natural lip on the inwards protrusion. It wasn't quite enough to let me push the bumper all the way back though so I'll finish that this weekend. I think the next line I cut might chip the paint a bit so need to think of something to prevent that - masking tape maybe or a finer saw.

Yeah, for the custom turbo lines do you mean the intercooler to inlet and turbo or do you mean the oil/water lines? I'll need custom stuff to connect from intercooler pipes to the turbo and the y-pipe. Not sure what you mean about the AAC though. I was going to leave all that on the stock inlet system with the existing loom. There's some pics in a link I posted earlier of someone using the stock y pipe with a j-pipe off a turbo but put on sideways. Mine might be a bit like that but with a silicon 90 at the Y and custom pipe back towards the intercooler pipe in the wing. If you meant oil/water I'll be cutting the banjo off the oil feed and joining to braided hose round to the oil sender tee. Drain will be custom using hose and the connectors I posted pics of earlier (a bit like yours). And for water lines I tried to explain my idea for that earlier. If it works I'll post pics and if not I'll cut off the banjos and connect via hose to heater pipes like you did. That reminds me ... you had oil in your turbo housing didn't you ... the standard oil feed pipe I bought has an approx 1mm restriction in one of the banjos and apparently this is cos the standard turbos are ball bearing. That's only what I've read but it made me wonder that if you used an4 hose without restriction it might be higher than expected oil flow. You're right about the BOV and gauge I think so will see how it goes.

Here's a quick pic of all the major bits I've got so far.. R33 turbo R33 elbow R33 manifold R33 water lines and oil feed line R33 heat shields R34 3" downpipe R34 GTT standard manual ECU R34 standard injectors Blitz FMIC kit Also now have nearly all of the various fittings. Most are shown in one of my pics above plus I've now got the tee for the oil sender. I just need gaskets, a bit more intercooler piping and a bit of hose to complete the oil and water lines. I'm assuming I can use the O2 sensor off my NA? I probably ought to get a bigger fuel pump soon as I've got it running with the above and I might get a BOV and boost gauge at some point. I think I'm gonna have to do this sooner than I expected :-)

I think that was my first mod too but wasn't the last. I left the hose in place and plugged the end with a bolt. If your filter is attached with a plastic adaptor watch out that it doesn't crack with the movement. I had to replace plastic adaptors twice and it's hard to spot the cracks at the join but means it would leak unfiltered air into the engine. I got an alloy adaptor in the end which was hard to find for the 3 inch adaptor neck that I've got but an Impreza one had the same bolt hole pattern.

I'm planning to keep my Y pipe. It is extra work to change plugs/coilpacks but after a couple of times it's not so bad. I guess there's some advantage in the DET inlet especially to put the standard BOV and turbo water return on. Not sure if the poorly matched large manifold ports meeting the smaller head ports might have some effect on the smooth flow of air but hey, bolting a turbo on is gonna be better than it was right? Interesting points about the Y pipe from Dan in the thread here - it's tempting to try what he said about that butterfly valve ... Did this today ... attacked the front bumper and got the reo bar off ready for cutting for the FMIC which should arrive in the next couple of days. Want to have a go at the rust spots as well. In the second pic, I don't know what the plastic thing is or where it came from. It was on the floor after removing the bumper. Aleks did you come across one when removing your bumper?

For your intercooler did you have to bring one of the pipes up through the body work by the expansion bottle? (where there are 2 already there on a GTT). Do you remember what size hole you cut? I need to get a hole saw and do that sooner rather than later for a test fit of my intercooler when that arrives.

Any progress on yours? I might end up doing this a bit sooner than I thought as I just got a package deal on GTT ECU, downpipe, injectors and a nice big FMIC with pipes. Didn't really intend to spend the money on all that stuff so soon but for some hard to get items at a fair price I had to say yes :-)