DatsunBanana

Are these the same for the 124 pin ECU on an R34 too?

Shane Lynch (of Boyzone) drifted a VH45DETT for Japspeed a few years ago over here.

It's this on my 25DE NEO - Highlighted on the page here if you click the link ... https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3951-rb25de/engine/165/16523P/ Click it on the picture to find part number 144655L300 As far as I can tell it's got the same part number for RB20DE Laurels but just to be sure, try and find the exact one in the EPC database for your model starting here ... https://nissan.epc-data.com/laurel/ From memory it's soft rubbery plastic and has a flange on one end so it doesn't disappear into the airbox. So not quite the same as a rubber connector but if you want to improvise then something like self-amalgamating hose repair tape wrapped around the TB might do it. Or even a couple of turns of duct tape - anything to create a soft seal.

Couple of times I've had the circlip on the turbo actuator arm fall off and the actuator disconnect. First time it was on a CA18DET and ran absolutely gutless. It's also happened on my RB25DE (with turbo conversion) but wasn't as bad cos the compression is higher so just felt like it was running non-turbo again.

I had code 21 on my R34 (non-turbo) and a lumpy idle. It ran fairly well while driving though. I can only speak as I found but changing the coil packs fixed it. O2 sensor should be swinging between higher and lower values. Recently I had to change my sensor as it was stuck on a single value and failed the emissions tests we have here in the UK.

Or you can take on board the different opinions and decide what works for you. There's nothing wrong with a +t but there is already a lot of info on here so check all that out and get a project thread going if you decide to do it. I wanted the challenge of a project but the cost of a turbo engine in the UK was beyond my budget and I didn't want the hassle of selling mine to buy another. Keep in mind there's more to it than just the engine upgrades. At least brakes, hopefully suspension, maybe gearbox depending on power. If you do a +t it'll drive different than a GTT (not a bad thing just different) and have a lower power potential. Dropping in the turbo engine would be cool and a nice project. There'll be all sorts of advice - some of it might even be from people who actually did what they're suggesting ?

Or do you mean putting that turbo and intercooler on it? Go for it! A few on here have done it. Mine's been +t for over a year now and I love it.

Someone else had a similar problem here though no solution was ever posted ... http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/21-tuning-technical-questions/144927-help-r34-speedo-not-working-after-rb25det-neo-conversion.html Bit of a different situation than yours but I've bolted a turbo and supporting mods on to my auto GT and now running a GTT manual ecu in there. Speedo works fine. I don't know why yours doesn't after swapping the whole engine.

Hi, does anyone know if it's possible to use an R34 RB25DE torque converter on an R33 RB25DET? Housing part numbers are the same so I'm guessing the parts will physically bolt on to flywheel and that the splines will fit the propshaft? But what about the stall speed and handling the power? If anyone's done it would be great to know if it was successful. Thanks.

Awesome - I'm in the wrong country :-)

I don't think anyone's pointed out yet that the power you can get from a genuine DET will always be more and easier than from a DE+t. So if you have a particular power figure in mind you might only have one choice really. I've done the DE+t and the sense of satisfaction is pretty awesome. I'd have had to wait a lot longer to buy a GTT and the moment might have just slipped away. Keep saving and watch the prices rise. My budget would probably have got me a GTST at the time but I wanted the R34. It might have been non-turbo for a few years but at least I was driving it. I gradually did the supporting mods - brakes, suspension etc. before the turbo conversion. If you're ok with spanners it's not hard, not particularly time consuming and not that expensive if you're patient about looking for good deals.

No worries. And welcome by the way.

Try the thread here. Links are still working - http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/21-tuning-technical-questions/143203-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-service-manuals-links.html

It is a vacuum canister. I removed mine for a de+t conversion. If I remember correctly vacuum came from the inlet plenum to this and then out again to the variable air intake butterfly valve solenoid. Another pipe goes from the solenoid to the butterfly actuator. I diverted the plenum take-off to my boost gauge instead. And I disconnected all the tubes from the solenoid. So this was redundant for me.

That's great. Thanks for confirming.

I'm gathering parts for a manual conversion on my R34 25GT. I know the RB25DET box is physically a lot fatter and stronger but in some side by side pics on the web it actually looks a little bit shorter than the RB20/25DE box. There's also a pic out there of the 25DET box with a tape measure against it showing about 32 inches and the 20/25DE box I got already is more like 33 inches. Does that sound right that the weaker box is actually a bit longer? This info is to help me buy the right tail shaft. It would be equally useful to know the actual length of the propshaft front piece from an R33 GTS or R34 GT. Anyone got that info?

OK. I'm hoping there's one on the box when I see it tonight. I found out that it's off an R33 so at least it will take an electronic one if not already there.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not too worried about the power capability of the box at the moment. If I go ahead then I'll be building it up on a spare RB25DE NEO I've got in the garage. If all goes well I'll transplant the lot and attach all the +t mods I've done on the current engine. So worst case scenario is that it doesn't last long but having done all the hard work on pedals, clutch etc. I'll just be forced to buy an R33 box but then it's just a straight (ish) swap. Also I'm supposing that a few have done +T on their R34 NA manuals and just kept using the W71C gearbox already in there? What I need to do is start buying all the bits I need and just not sure if a speed sender will be one of those things. I think you're right about it's gonna be different but I'm just not clear on what's in the auto box already and whether it will slot in to replace whatever the RB20 box has. So if anyone knows that would be great.

Hi, I've been offered an RB20 manual gearbox and I realise that's the same box as the R34 non-turbos had. I have done a plus T but it's still only running modest power so I'm OK with putting the smaller box in. The one thing I'm struggling to really find is whether the R34 NA auto box has a speedo sender that will plug into the RB20 manual? Does it make a difference which Skyline the box came from - like if it was an R32? Nissan EPC doesn't even seem to list a speed sensor for the R34 non-turbo but it does for the 300zx NA auto which is the same box. I can't find any pictures showing where it is on the autobox either.

Thank you. You're right about the other vehicles. I've just done a bit more digging and it looks like I could easily get one for a UK model NA 300zx. It seems even some London taxis have the same box :-)

Hi, I may need to drop my tiptronic box sump and clean the filter. I assume that I need a new gasket or can the old one be re-used? I'm in the UK and not sure how easily I'll find one but can anyone give me a part number or even an Aus/NZ supplier? Will it be same for GT and GTT boxes? Mines GT. Thanks.

A bit more to my story ... I've tricked the ECU into turning off the engine management light. As per other threads elsewhere on here (e.g. secret squirrel trick) I used a few diodes soldered in series and took off various voltages by soldering wires at different points in the chain to feed into relevant ECU pins. I got more or less correct voltages into pin 47 (my yellow wire in the pic ~2.6V) and pin 51 (my orange wire ~3.4V). For pin 53 (my orange/black striped wire) I managed to get about 4V but I'm not entirely sure if that's enough for the 4.7V expected by that pin (according to service manual) or maybe that missing pin signal wasn't contributing to my error codes in the first place. I had thought about getting some spare pins for the ECU harness and making a more robust job of it but in the end I just stripped a few mm of insulation off my wires from the diodes and poked them through the correct holes at the back of the ECU plug. (if the bare wire poked out the other side I trimmed it). Pic gives an idea of what it looks like in place. The red wire to pin 48 provided +5V to my diodes and the black wire from the ground of my circuit went into pin 43. I just jammed these two wires in as far as I could against the pin that was already there on the NA harness. The series of diodes is wrapped up in plenty of heat shrink sleeve as you can see. It all tucks in neatly once I clipped the ECU plug cover back on. In fairness a good tug would pull all the wires out but it's all covered by the kick panel so I'm not too worried about that. If I get a minute I'll draw a circuit diagram and post it.

Thanks Johnny although I'm in the UK. (I really need to add my location to my sig). I'm sure I will at some point go for decent engine management.

Very interesting - at least all that makes sense and will stop it bugging me. Thanks for the info fellas.

Thanks. I fully expected replies from people saying that their gauges are clearly showing that there are two stages of boost and that I'm completely wrong. There are so many posts on different forums about grounding a pin to keep the boost high so what's all that about? From what you've explained that's a waste of time if the system is already at high boost except under certain conditions. Is the R33 different and is that causing confusion with people?