Clintox

So had a good look under the car just inspecting for any damage/wear from the trip... Besides being absolutely filthy (dirt/dust) everything seemed pretty good, being aftermarket arms with heim joints I pulled them all apart and gave them a clean out... Found abit of crap got into one of the rear traction arms and noticeable wear on the rod end so will replace that. Also found the drivers side outer steering tie rod had abit of play... I happened to find these tie rods on UAS which they say help fix some of the bump steer issues when you lower the car. http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/front-bump-steer-correcting-tie-rod-ends-584.aspx But then found these from the guys at Shift Performance Parts, Inner and outer rods that look identical. https://www.shiftperformance.com.au/product/n1-suspension-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtr-gts4-14mm-steering-tie-rods-ends-2/ Anyway bolted it all up today no probs, (obviously changed both driver and passenger sides) Original: "N1" Parts, The angle that the balljoint is mounted on the end of the tie rod was quite different compared to stock. Another interesting this was the inner tie rods had "rack spacers" built into them, Unlike the originals which I purchased a pair of "rack spacer washers" from GKtech Setup the toe as best I could with a tape measure, will book for an alignment next week

What boost were you running? My 32R with a reasonably fresh motor with similar mods, stock turbos made 300rwhp but not kw on 14psi

lets hope there is some cash in there! Thing is the original spot welds have not been drilled out so it doesnt look like the panel was ever removed... just the rivets added.

Pop riveted panel in the boot? R32 GTR Hey guys, just curious.. in the boot of my R32 GTR there is a panel on the drivers side that has a bunch of pop rivets in it... The panel also looks to have spot welds on it too... Just wondering if this is stock, altho I wouldnt think so.. But does anyone have any ideas? Ive heard of people putting pop rivets in panels to try stiffen the chassis but they are only on this one panel and it doesnt seem to be that important of one... Anyone know what is behind that panel?

Just checked mine which is a 1990 and there is no spot weld there, Nor would I expect a exterior spot weld there across two seams like that. Mine does have a blob is seam sealant that sorta looks like a spot weld nearby tho.... cant tell if its that from the pic... If you stick your finger nail into it is it squishy?

Hey Yuriy, (saying in the nicest way possible) The car specs have not chanced since 2009 so all the info you have found will still be relevant. but here is what I personally use anyway (not saying its the best just what ive been using) may not be applicable brands in USA? Motor Oil: Penrite HPR5 5-40w Full synthetic every 5000km Ryco Oil Filter Gearbox oil: Redline light weight shockproof Brake/Clutch Fluid: Motul 660 Coolant: Nothing special just whatever greenstuff was at the local Blinker Fluid: Castrol GT34

Any updates?

Digging up an old thread but does anyone know a clamp similar to this style but to suit Stainless?

BNR32 Front Splitters Hey guys, Ive got the Stock GTR bumper and lower "splitter" and even without my car being super lower section cops abit of punishment... I like the look of the Jun carbon fibre splitters etc but how do you guys who with driving them around on the streets without snapping them off?!

Its definitely electrical, I just don't know how the drivers window signal is being sent to the passenger's door lock. It happens as soon as you touch the switch in either direction, Even if I do not activate the auto up/down (ie only just touch it) the drivers door doesn't lock only the passenger. Doing abit of research behind the drivers kick panel is a little electrical box which I think has to do with control of the locks and power windows so maybe something inside that is short circuited... ill hunt down another and try that.

R32 GTR Drives window locks passenger door? Hey all, my 32 GTR has had this problem since I got it... If you open or close the drivers window it will lock the passenger door?! Checked the wiring in the drivers door and nothing looks damaged... just wondering if anyone else has had this before? its it a R32 thing and is there a known fix or should I just try replacing components?

Out and About today in Hobart, spotted a C110 / 240K Then made the "hike" up Mt Wellington

Yep that was me, Had just left Brisbane and was heading for Sydney Extremely happy with the GTR, Over 8000km across all but one of Australia's Territory's with the only issues we had being: -Clutch clevis pin popped out, must have been missing the split pin (5 minute fix) -Horn jammed on when I turned steering full lock, have not investigated why yet, just pulled the relay for now (1 min temp fix) -One of the adjustable castor suspension arms unwound itself after we went off road for about an hour down one of the tracks SIRI sent us down making the steering wheel 1/4 way off center (15 min fix) -Close call with a small roo/other car -Too low for the crazy eastern states driveways that dip 1000meters into the gutter, even tho the car isn't that low! (scratched up the front lip) Best we got was 11.3L / 100km with the average around 11.7L/100

They are a "Thule" brand Rack but could not find anything at all for a 2 Door skyline (which wasn't surprising) So I had to buy a rack for a Toyota Yaris, cut the mounts up and modify them and moulded new feet out of silicon sealant so they matched the roof profile properly

Cheers guys, just wish I didn't have the roof rack and swag on for the bathurst pics

Couple pics from visiting Bathurst today

Well no one wins the prize for guessing what it was, but here it is anyway... Since im moving from Perth To Tasmania I decided to drive the GTR across. I had only just done a closed door respray a few months prior so in the interests of protecting the paint I was deciding between either plastidip or Vinyl wrap... until I saw a pic of the 1991 ATCC Bathurst winning GTR which got me thinking. after a few emails I found a sponsor to supply the individual stickers for me (Cheers to Steve at stickerstudio.com.au) so all I had to do was sort out the basic red, white and blue. We actually left on the 21st Sep and are currently in Whayalla, not too far from Adelaide Esperance Cocklebiddy: SA - WA Border

A Tease for whats to come

Im sure there is stuff ive missed but thats pretty much up to date... A Haltech PNP came up for sale at the right price so I snapped that up and just been road tuning that lately and enjoying the car... We are getting ready for the big road trip from Perth To Tasmania is this so will be a few more interesting items coming soon.... But this is how she lookes atm.

Anyway since I am planning to move to Tasmania in the very near future I didnt want to go too far from stock as I will need to pass pits again once I move there. So I kept work mainly restricted to replacing anything that needed it... which after noticing a leak from the body of the stock injectors which I soon found out was a common issue I fitted a Turbosmart FPR800 fuel pressure reg, set of 850cc Siemens Deka Injectors, Fuel rail and Walbro 255 fuel pump. Next one of the front CV boots split, so front Axle rebuild was on the cards. While I was at it I replaced the outer CV joints as well as the boots. Could not find inner CV's so just inspected, re-greased and new boots on that end as well as new diff side seals, front seal and oil. Before and after of the drivers side axle: A pair of Stainless split dump pipes came up for sale on facebook so I grabbed them and ordered a front Y-pipe also. here is a comparison next to the stock Y-pipe I found the dump pipe hole where the waste-gate pipe enters the main pipe was actually quite alot smaller then the actual pipe so I got the die grinder out and hogged it out to match the pipe size... here is a before and after (highlighted the hole in the before pic as was hard to see so circled it) Now I was hoping it was going to be quite a easy job to fit the dump pipes and Y-pipe... Turns out I had to remove the Dam turbos again to get both dump pipes off! I had also noticed the Gearbox mount had sagged abit and the gearbox was occasionally touching the crossmember so grabbed a Nismo strengthened mount and some crossmember bushes... Painted the crossmember while it was off and fitted the new bits.

Sooo since the car was going to be off the road for two weeks I suckered my gf into helping me paint the car I did 90% of the prep at home but it helped that I was running a Custom car workshop at the time so took it to work to finish the final prep and lay down the color in the booth. Unfortunately my phone went through the wash a couple months ago and I lost heaps of pics relating to the car... But I did post a few to Facebook so here are those. Was just a closed door job in the Original Red Pearl Metallic, Had a couple issues but overall very happy with how it turned out and will serve me well until I decide to do a full on respray. Got the diff back together shortly after but lost all the relatic pics Then after abit of driving noticed a relay clicking on and off all the time... Abit of research I discovered it was likely my Hydrogen resi which is part of the AWD system. So grabbed a new item from Kudos motorsport and that sorted that. Continued buying and fitting various bits and pieces (was sorta addicted to online shopping) ill run through a quick list. -GTR Tyre valve caps (Ebay) -Full set of Interior LED globes (Ebay) -Suede Steering wheel (Ebay) -New handbrake / shifter boot (Ebay) -New Interior door handles, Dash Vents, center console surround (Kudos Motorsport) -Various rubbers & clips (RHD Japan) -Silk Road front undertray (2nd hand Facebook) -Nismo Oil cap (Ebay) -Nismo Center caps (Ebay) -Fuel tank seal, Brake shim kit, Radiator bushes, (Kudos Motorsport) My missus was nice enough to buy me a set of GTR floor mats,dash mat and matching GTR Jumper Next I was after abit more power as to be frank I was quite disappointed in the stock GTR power. Picked up a Nistune, fitted a HKS boost controller and strapped er down on the Dyno... Abit of tinkering saw power climb to just shy of 300rwhp. (lost the pics of most of the dyno sheets on my old phone but I do have this one which was a comparison of my stock turbo 33 to the stock turbo 32r.... Can see how much more responsive the 33 is altho peak power is not as high)

Clints 32 GTR Hey guys, I got this GTR November 2015. Bought it unlicensed and with a blown turbo. Here's a few pics from just after I got it. Was pretty much stock, I picked up another pair of stock turbo's, Replaced a few bushes/balljoints, fixed a small rust hole in the passenger foot well and went over the pits and got my plates One of the first things was a new set of wheels (the silver 17's were ok but not my cup of tea) so picked up a set of 18x10 Grids which I shortly after wrapped with Nexen SU1 275/35-18's all round. (Great all round tyre btw) Sold the set of Kei Office coil overs as the springs and dampeners were super stiff and Replaced them with a Set of Tein's Focusing on getting the suspension and driveline at first I soon fitted the following: -URAS adjustable front upper control arms -ZSS adjustable front castor arms -Hicas Eliminator kit -Rear subframe pineapples -Diff Pinion bushes -New tailshaft center bearing -Torque Split Controller Since the diff was clunking abit I decided to do a rebuild. I had to pull the diff and take some measurements before I knew exactly what parts I needed to order. I pulled it apart and ordered new bearings, Nismo clutch kit, seals, shims etc Unfortunately there was going to be a 2 week wait for some of the parts.