shyr33

I have been meaning to ask that same question and I have about 4 or 5 bottles of used oil just sitting in the shed. That WSN place looks good does anyone know of something like that in Melbourne?

Does it come up at normal speed or at high speeds? Have you had a look down there just in case something looks out of the ordinary?

Do you want to just bolt a skyline turbo onto your standard engine? Or replace the engine with a skyline one? If its just a turbo, you should be able to find them at wreckers or on here if people are selling them. A couple of hundred should get you a good one I think.... But I don't know if it will fit in your engine bay, never seen a 89 navara's engine bay. The turbo will be the least cost item, it will be getting custom things made up that will probably cost more. Would be a interesting job though.

If you turn on your A/C or demister etc and it blows air does it still make the Flap Flap Flap sound?

Ye it should be fine just don't forget to d/c the battery as you said. I forgot to do this once when I went on like a two week holiday during winter time and then I came back and gone....battery dead haha (but I think it was a older battery aswell tho)

Ye I think that is normal, don't quote me but when you are at low revs e.g. idle then want to turn the wheels it takes a bit of power from the power steering pump etc so I think it compensates for that by increasing the revs in order for it not to stall. But im just throwing up ideas.

Ye I would advice not to remove it unless you are planning to replace it with like that heat wrap stuff.

As MR GTR-32 said you will never please everyone but do what you like. As mentioned you will probably loose a little bit of performance with the wheels being quite heavy I think. But it depends what you are doing with the car. My mate had 19's on his r34 and it looked good no rubbing but he didn't have superlows so you might get some when parking or something I'm not 100% though

Ok thanks MunkeyBoy, well I decided to go down and ask pedders for some free advice and the guy there who seems like he knows what he is talking about said that it shouldn't matter if both ends of the eyelet spacer thing has the same diameter(which mine has) but if one end is slightly larger of tapered than that end should go towards the bolt I think. He said they sometimes do that for clearances or something like that. I put the front ones in yesterday but I decided to buy a washer as Tridentt did and put that in there which makes it look ok. Thanks for the replies people, I will keep an eye on it and if it makes noises etc then I will change it and see.

Thanks for the reply tridentt150v, that looks like 2 down for facing the other way. Any other people want to join in and tell me how theirs are facing ( and make me have to pull them out again arghhh)?

Hrmm I see. Thanks for the quick reply at least I have one other 'skyline' to go of. Did someone tell you to face it that way for a reason or did you follow instructions or ....? Thanks again

Haha ye well I figured that much to but I looked at my brother's car (its a commodore mind you) and it had shocks with a larger spacer like mine and that was facing in the same direction as mine. I actually just also asked my mate who works as a mechanic at nissan and he reckons people there said it looks right but no one has been able to explain what the difference is. That's why I thought if people can look at their own skylines with aftermarket shocks then maybe we can get a trend going on what theirs looks like. How is the setup on your rear shocks Munkeyboy?

By the way this is that picture I was talking about, not sure what it is saying in the writting next to it though. Anyone know japanese?

Hey everyone Just put some new rear shocks in my car (Series 1 R33) and I just had a question about whether this looks right to everyone else. Is this the right way for the shock to be facing or should it be facing towards the tyre. It looks ok to me because it has the damper adjuster facing towards the diff so its easier to adjust, but I bought some springs and they had this instruction manual in JAPANESE mind you which had this picture and it looked like that metal spacer thing on the bottom of the shock is facing towards the wheel. So Im a little confused. What do other peoples one look like? Not sure if it really makes a difference but ye. Thanks in advance

you might need coilpacks depending on the condition of your standard ones? Not sure what the standard ones are good for....

Sorry 'blind elk' I think my term of faster was a little misleading. I was told by a 'performance' mechanic that when increasing the boost in the car and making more power you should decrease the gap of the plugs to give you a more reliable spark especially at higher RPM? So I was thinking that with a larger gap the plug had the tendency to possible 'miss' or be delayed slightly due to the speed of everything at higher RPM's and thinking logically, smaller distance = quicker time to get there. As I said im no expert just throwing an idea. After all this forum is a place to learn something for us noob's haha After doing a little reading I do agree with your point of getting a stronger spark and better burn at a larger gap.

I will say about 172rwkw. Before and after plots would be good to see Good luck!

As 'payback21' said, I thought I had a similar problem then I looked at the back of the engine and found oil slowly leaking from the rocker cover gaskets down near the gearbox area. So have a look at that. It's alot cheaper and easier to replace than a head gasket!

Hey manuel im no expert unfortunately..... Um so even with the less responsive power delivery do you think you have actually lost maximum power in the car or....? Um I think that gapping your plugs to 0.8mm should give you a faster ignition so the only thing I could think of is that the timing is slightly out. Maybe its firing slightly earlier and not at its best position. But I knew someone who gapped it to around 0.8mm aswell and he thought he had a slight increase in power with similar mods to yours. Like I said I no expert I'm just throwing up some ideas. "waits for someone to correct me"

Did they change your brake fluid? Could there be air in the system? I know we had to bleed my friends car for ages for all the air to come out and then it was braking alot better. Just a suggestion.

Oh ye I remember reading about that a while back. I might look into that. Thanks

I should mention before I sound stupid that my mates one I tried is from his Series 1 R33 which has the same plug at the back of the engine as mine, that's why I wasn't sure if both of us have series 2 coilpacks so ye

My bad, sorry Panda I must of been of with the fairies!

Ye the series 1.5 started in late 95 I think but mine is registered as 94, plus I don't have ABS which I know Series 2 had. Other than that I don't know how else to distinguish a series 2 engine.... Now Im wondering if you change the coilpacks to series 2, would they have to change the rest of the ignition components or can you easily convert from series 1 coilpacks to series 2 ones?

Ye they are missing pretty bad are high rpm and load. Put my mates good ones in there and no problem. Yep am going to buy the splitfires. Im just curious why would someone replace the ignition system on the car to using series 2 coilpacks? Any advantages with having the ignitors inbuilt?