GeeTR

They're a re-chiped stocker I believe. And due to being tuned (usually) for Jap fuel, they'll theoretically be too fuel lean, and too ignition advanced. Just as Mines did, if you have access to the ERPOM burner and SW you can 're-tune" yourself (PM CEFFIE) With a new motor (and new huffers down the road) you'll be wanting something better down the road anyway. With a fresh new motor, id be running stock boost for sure. Both cluster gauge and sender can be dodgey; with that new motor id get a aftermarket one asap.

Would definitely take the chance to upgrade the bush's to urethane. Depending on tires / shocks there can be some slight NVS increase, but its completely worth the sharper response, and feel through s.wheel and seat. Eat through bolts? Replace em every 100,000 km's Whiteline Search SAU for SydneyKid's suspension deals

Shame he deleted the contents of the post, as posting the fix, how ever embarrassing (I'm assuming) would have been good for archival purposes.

I reckon, you should search the forum more and do some 'homework' ay, coz there's heaps of other mad doodz like you's who have got these on their cars, and av commented about the performance n shit, would help ya 2 not sound like such a noob ay. With 35,000 members, there's a fair chance someone else has wondered about the same modification decisions as yourself.

Your Noobness could never be tolerated.. get outa ere It would be the big thing, connected to the belts at the front of the engine?... There aren't too many there, look for the thing with high pressure metal lines connected to it, that isn't the PS pump. This should prolly be in General Maintenance section

Mr 4 post would benefit from using the search button Generally most people do the most powaah rewarding PER dollar mods first. Powah: Extra power from adjusting relative cam angle varies on mods and of course… the cam profile being adjusted. As mentioned, your usually moving the power band up and down the rev range, not "necessarily" making more power. As such, they're more of a high level tuning tool Cost: Total cost of mod includes many hours on a dyno with a good tuner to get the most affect from timing changes. (heaven forbid your tuning a SR20 who's gears sit under the cam cover) As per always, your decision depends on your use for the car. If just throwing a bunch of light mods at it, sell the gears. If your going to be changing cams, turbos etc and want to spend $300 - $500 on dyno time, purely on cam gear adjustment, then keep em. Use the search button to see the results of others tweaking setups that costly match yours. PS: Their visual appeal diminishes when you put your timing cover back on... which you'll be doing to prevent a stone from getting under the belt... wont you Cheers

Find out for yourself Nengun Greenline Perfectrun Taka Kaira

Detonating a motor due to a sticking high flowed injector, would seem completely ridiculous in hindsight (im aware 99% of mod'd units work fine) For ~$100 / brand new injector, any debate at all between High Flow <-> New SARD/NISMO, is pure craziness when dealing with something that represents such a critical single point of failure.

My hypothesis was funnier, you should've flowed When i got mine under the 15y rule, the tires didn't need changing. The 90% used, old, hard, jap import tires where me favorites! Such a hard cracked up sidewall

Pull one off, make a template from some sheet alloy (ppl use soda cans) and bolt the bov back up, with the "gasket" in place. *cough*tosser*

Haha w00t dood Man, shuuush, you cant put reality in front of turbine whistle!!! I don't think the surge slotted HKS T51's are specc'd any better then the other options in the same power window, but I've heard of half a dozen ppl that have upgrade their well matched, non - surging setups for HKS items; purely for noise (check the YouTube trash for evidence of popularity - ha) Its Garrets step i guess, to remain attractive to F&F fans heading towards the Rice tech mecca that is the GTK's from Turbonetics

Yah, sweet suggestions by QWK32. You can simply check the spec sheet or white paper for the relay your using (Google manufacture and model) for max current flow and (usually) max capacity for passing juice. Interestingly, what thickness power cable are you running from batt to relay?

LoL, cough up, i wanna know more about this BOV & Vice mod - do i need a pony?

PicsorBan

Didn't last long cus lack of BOV's? Iv never seen a turbs get damaged due to lack of BOV Any new garret turbo should last a looong time. Turbos outlive engines in the trucking business... and they're always on boost

Gotcha!

Workshop manual Id dump a copy, but am on wrong PC

Theres a laaaaaaaaarge comprehensive thread on SAU regarding dis.

CalaisTurbo.com

I would think feeding a gauge (elec or mech) the dirty signal T'd from a BOV a bad idea. Using the FPR feed is a bad idea too. Not sure bout R34's, there must be a nice feed back there somewhere.

Premium Un Leaded Petrol

Do you deem that mandatory / beneficial? ~$500 is a lot of BOV'ing

Just to clarrify, if a JUN pump can drain a normal sump, and you have the big ole -10 from head -> sump; Where is the oil supposed to be draining to?

Sounds odd. They usually fail by locking solid, not "working harder" as your mechanic said. Rip your fan off and start the car... if the sound goes away, its the fan

Cooler and lines can add 1L or more. Depends on the level of "draining" you do. Some people actually disconnect the lines low, to get more of the old stuff out. I think Luke meant, do you pre-fill the filter with oil before fitting. Two hands is too much. Some Loctite anti seize and a good one handed twist should do fine. If it leaks, somthing is wrong. Those wrenchs are considered to be used for removal, not tightening. Snapping the filter thread isnt fun or cheap; iv never had one leak. The anti drain back valve in most filters stops the mess, but a rag wrapped around the filter <-> boss works well. Hope that filter doesn't taken a knock from a driveway / ripple strip I reckon they look shit hot, due to how much easier they allow a change on a GTR