GeeTR

Big guess to say it's slipped a tooth. How olds the belt in it? I wouldnt think a big end knock (bearing issue) would cause it do idle funny... Could be the other way around. If the cars missing (usual AFM, AAC etc) the piston can do funny things when it goes over TDC and doesn't fire. It can knock about... thats possibly what your hearing. Sorry I'm no real help, just some thought

My invisible freind says that my "ceiling paint" analogy... "Its like painting everything in your room with the white colour you want on the ceiling only, then wiping all the paint off the carpet, the door handles, the windows panes, and everything else you didn't want to have covered in paint… leaving just the ceiling" was way cooler

Hahahah this threads awesome - Checking some of the names back in 2003. If only they knew half a decade later, ppl would still whinge about atmo BOV's, Cat overheat dash lights and coil related 4000krpm engine misfire :0 Seems mindless SAU banter / ranting was much the same, even 4 years ago Travis32 - You lucked out on the thread to comment on, as there must be 7,894,651,324,854 threads on the topic. Your a mechanic I read; check the solenoid on the drivers side strut tower. Squeeze the lines till you find it (yellow band marking it) Course your stock ceramic turbines wheels could fall off the turbo shaft and fark you motor. Risk is there, Conjecture runs thick in SAU. Hit the Search button to make up your own mind. Cheers

Assuming you can use your EBC (you mention Blitz meter, but not what type of EBC) to read boost, was it always reading 12.7 on the meter... or has it changed in the last 6 months? Dyno operators like to "T" a boost feed for the dyno sensor from the FPR vacuum feed. Your EBC is most likely T'd somewhere else. I wouldnt worry about it. If you wanna change it back to 12.0, then play with your EBC, easy.

Very nice indeed, looks fancy pants too :0

The majority of the worldwide Skyline community, talks of the Attessa in a BNR32 being slow to react... so YOUR experiance differs from the norm.. not the other way around. Thats what these blokes are on about. "Selling Lies" hahah wtf

oh dear

I had the exact same sound after belt, idler and tensioner change. What type of belt are you using? I used a Gates; people say they are a little nosier.

dammit, knew i shoulda made my mind up ... before it was made up for me

Cools, I'm with you now. I'm not sure on the design of the seal used on that shaft. For the effort of possibly reaming it out, and sleeving it, a second hand turbine housing would cost very little i would imagine. The service your turbo got, revolves around the core or cartridge, so you wouldn't be loosing the $ spent there. Just some thoughts Edit: If you do get it "serviced" in some way, be sure to respond back, as I’m pretty interested in your dilemma.

Welcome, love the purple! Get a 4" IC with decent end tanks. Leave the fuel reg. Get a 044, inj's, ECU and GT35R and ram some boost through that thing

+1

One would think its electrical, if it only occurs in the rain. Have you changed anything recently? Do you have a vented bonnet? CAI? Try checking error codes.

Aplynipg spiacel ftilres taht aonucct for your cfafein fuleld mnirnog psot, taht bferoe my vrey eeys trmfsornrad a bclok of ill fattmored bblabe, itno smithong mgnaabele, I now uasntdned you pertclefy Cuz there cheap, small, easy to fit and are *most importantly* shiny As for your question, stop playing with the base pressure, and using it to tune. Set to stock (43-45'ish) and leave it alone. Its like painting everything in your room with the white colour you want on the ceiling only, then wiping all the paint off the carpet, the door handles, the windows panes, and everything else you didn't want to have covered in paint… leaving just the ceiling. Without being harsh, i think it's best you start listening to ppls A:'s when you ask (often the same) Q:'s again and again. I understand you feel comfortable using the benders, but you really are going to be better off getting something proper. PS: Your aware aren't you, that ignition advance changes with engine rev's / load. Good luck with it all

^^ All good info. Split dump > Big cat, choice of material and manufacture varies, there 1000000s threads on SAU. Then choose your sound and look with what ever Cat Back system.

Your getting the zhaust O2 and intake sensor mixed up O2 sensor feedback can be turned off in the PFC, but I'd keep it turned on, specially if it's a daily / often used car; helps with fuel consumption. (The fact a faulty sensor can take 200km's off the mileage [kilometre'age?] of a tank, shows this) It's a reason why people like to use the injector correction when using larger injectors, it allows the closed loop and target AFR to function properly. (VS those that say, install 700cc squirters, leave the correction to stock and tune from scratch) The intake manifold temp sensor, for intake temp correction, is always on I believe, and plays a pivotal role in telling the ECU (be it stock, PFC or full AM) charge density. I don't know the specifics of the PFC setup, but you can bet when the intake temp goes up, ignition advance at least, is wound out. Keep in mind, if the sensor was there to inform the user of benign temps, there'd be a dash gauge or something

On the dyno, you've more then likely got your bonnet up, which aids air flow to the back of the motor

Poxxxxy asss! They might suit something... just not the back of that R34. The shape of the oval they sit in doesn't blend with either side profile or rear. Hell the contour of the lenses doesn't really suit any Skyline. ... you asked, and you got my bigoted 2c

haha - awesome plug for the Autronic

Could be faulty igniter (PTU) with heat as a catalyst. Could try zip tying to the firewall to see if the issue is less pronounced.

Wait up - the PFC clearly uses the temp sender in the plenum for correction. Wouldn't sticking it in the intercooler pipe (where its almost always going to be cooler then right up against the head) going to effect the correction amount? (ie, if there was a condition where the cooler was cold and the plenum was heat soaked and hot...?) Fancy low heat transfer gaskets would do bugger all in a modern engine bay like a Skyline I reckon. Although I’m not discounting the huge transfer ability through solids, the whole engine bay is full of radiant 90o engine, radiator, oil lines, HICAS lines, brake lines, heaven forbid a high mount setup.

Kyle uses cast iron steam pipe bends for most of his work, not stainless. Post some pictures of the merged collector and I, as well as dozens of others will tell you if it looks like one of Kyle’s jobs. The fact your not sure about the quality is prolly hint in itself that its not.

Booo to the fatigued boost line