drifter17a

So nut removed but drive shaft doesn’t budge if you put a torch around the rear drive ahaft, is there bearing or something right behind it where all grease will melt? air hammer does not work, heavy hammer doesn’t and also plus gas doesn’t it os almost welded

Waiting on alpha omega response spacers goes in one way only so i could not havr mis aligned anything as all holes must be aligned for it to go in calliper is good so only thing is the bracket is screwed? could camber or toe impact position of disc i. Relation to caliper? I wouldn’t thing so as knockle is not flexible so toe pr camber won’t pull bottom side down or vice versa

I followed all instructions and puzzled it has a hub spacer which I installed and drive shaft ring thing which does toe or camber angle change position of caliper to disc?

All bought the alpha omega bracket kit for r34 rear as had it in front and it is good for those who don't know, it is 350z rear disc with brembo is evo 6 caliper and bracket of course now after mounting it which comes with a drive shaft spacer, it seems too tight between the lower of the caliper and disc is that expected if anyone has installed it? disc rotates but think it will rob

Ok so got the r32 manual so thanks for the advice few questions: 1. why is the torque in range such as 85-110? That is a huge difference 2.you can't put a torque meter on the flange from gearbox so i made it as tight as I could with spanner. Book says torque should be 80 nmwhich seems very high for that bolt and nut 3. Subframe torque was 110nm , lock is not nylon so you don't need to dispose of it, re use? I used medium strength loctile on it

Taken whole rear subframe out and relaced with aluminum as well aa difff can’t find torque setting, anyone knows what it is? not in workshop manual for r33 or r34 i also need the ball joint, trailing arm etc torque as need to torque them up

So clean and grease is what you suggesting? if greased and no boot, it will get dirty or full of stone very soon is it matter of rotating side to side and if it work without sticking or strange noise the. It is still good?

Will look to find consult then ....

hate the feature where you can look maps, feels like you are held hostage

few years back, I bought japspeed( well known in the UK) tension rod. Does anyone know if one is meant to look after and service spherical bearing as I refer to it. see attached picture. dust boot was torn and came off so no dust boot but doesn't look to have change anyting significantly . I bought these as had vibration on brake and no issues since installation really Lower Recurring cost per month

I end up using the body panel right next to the triangle shape which seems strong and not hollow which has the subframe bolted to on front connections/poly bushes. it is fine now so didn't use sill or inner rails

right but where is the joy of fixing it yourself? Link ECU replaces the main ecu as it is plug in so my question was does consult port uses the standard ecu to connect to hicas and abs etc / in another word, were you able to only access them throuugh standard ecu even though they were different ecus? has anyone read abs module codes on nissan skyline and if so what software and port have you used

didn't budge so I had to remove it, open top mount and fix....

All removing sub frame at rear to change bushes and normally you lift from diff and standa under the subframe arm where it is triangle shape/ 3 bolt/nuts now with subframe needing to come off, where would you place the stand as sills are not strong enough and i have squashed the liners ones before

Mechanic will have same tools as me just need some advice on how to read the abs module code

So other night i did few hard braking and abs light is now on and no abs. Wheels do lock up i have link g4 on my 1998 r34 gtt which has usb interface but i think that only replaces the ecu as I still have consult port what I am not sure is if consult os reading and accessing ecu through the old ecu so i bought consult and tried both consultz and nissan data scan 1 and neighbours can access the ecu or any other ecu as hicas was also removed so i googled ans jumped pin 4 and 8 and still no flashing on abs light indicating what the problem is read the link ecu and had no error and it is locked by tuner so can't access it what are my options here to read abs fault and fix it?

Not looked after i guess by previous owner changed all 4 corners, rear disc and good year tyre at 1k so far

It is a 645ci bmw not my skyline

I hear a knock every now and then when going over kerb to park so think it is the spring not resting on the pad i am thinking of hooking up the spring compressor and hammer it so spring sits on the pad is that a bad idea? You are right it is a nightmare to get it off though. Will probably do that

Did voltage drop test and negative it is 2.4 volt and positive is 3.4 volt to alternator and i belive more than 2v on positive and 1v on negative means trouble my battery is in boot so i used jumper lead to extend so not sure if this is playing a role i think it is either dirty connection or short circuit somewhere, thought?

I hear a knock every now and then when going over kerb to park so think it is the spring not resting on the pad i am thinking of hooking up the spring compressor and hammer it so spring sits on the pad is that a bad idea?

So took it to sparky and he reconditioned it. he couldn’t get the regulator and after some fafing around he called and said it is ready So now with full load it is charging at 14 but when rpm is 2k and above. When on idle which is around 800 it doesn’t charge at all with full load charing at 12.7 or less with nonload or full load around 11.5 belt is as tight as hell so what could be wrong?

So if not on the mount seat then it is ok?

All, silly question but what is the purpose of top or bottom mount rubber or slot where spring end should rest on? if not, what could happen?

Well not charging do dead for dure ubless there are relay etc