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drifter17a

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  1. Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me. Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt. Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
  2. Thanks for advice chaps so you would change idler and tensioner bolt as well ? I guess because you thinking they have stretched once ? i have done some research and on nissan belt and seem to hold 700hp but thinking HKS to be on safe side i think I put nissan there last time also thinking of changing cam cover to glass style:)
  3. Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp. Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon. A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right. The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  4. live in the UK, and London has introduced a Low Emission Zone (LEZ) that requires individuals to pay £13 if their car doesn’t meet the required emissions standards. The standard specifies that NOx emissions must be less than 0.08 g/km (i.e., the vehicle must meet Euro 4 standards or better, which generally results in NOx levels of around 0.08 grams per kilometer). I reached out to Nissan UK, and they advised me to contact Nissan Japan directly. Does anyone have contact details for Nissan Japan or any certifications of conformity that show the emission details or NOx levels for the RB25DET engine? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Thanks GTSBoy, appreciated
  6. I have a 6 boost manifold and it has loads of bends etc. turbo has a cover however manifold doesn’t so I started to wrap what I could without taking turbo off. Very restricted area are you stating wrapping could lead to cracking weld? Is that because heat is retained? i have a exhaust gas temp right after turbo and it hits 700degree or 800 at times. there are areas which is impossible to reach with fibre glass cloth. Is there anything I could apply such as the photo shared earlier which would formulate around exhaust pipe in difficult to reach areas, sort of like aluminium foil flexible to shape it in place? i think from earlier reply you mentioned acl? Is this what you meant? https://www.nstparts.com/product/acl-heat-shield-700x275 photo of my engine bay https://ibb.co/9grHsMN https://ibb.co/bXC8KRM https://ibb.co/KV3kGZc I am trying to cover bottom of the exhaust manifold which joins the turbo. Only way is to take turbo and possible manifold out as it also touches the engine mount which I don’t fancy doing
  7. Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
  8. Silly me, thanks mate:)
  9. I downloaded the gtr r32 manual which I understand will be pretty much same as r34 i rear the page in screenshot and if I understand correctly, the torque for the 4 bolts are 78-98 nm. Why a range? what does number below it mean( 8-10 ,52-78)?
  10. Lol I changed mine, £90 is cheaper than few k to rebuild
  11. Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this. Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
  12. appreciated it thanks There are threads on the adaptor. I rear re anodising but didn’t know it will reduce strength re mating services needing to be flat/ not painted, why would that be? I am devastated as car been off for a year, fixed power steering then installed bm57 master cylinder and just before driving it this came up. So annoyed worried and afraid to drive it, no fun caliper coming off
  13. Thanks does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
  14. So unsafe would you say now? little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting
  15. Here is picture of the rear brackets again seeming to have eating itself or corrode or whatever. Can’t describe it , hope someone could explain this
  16. No i am in the uk so maybe road salt etc but checked rear and same story where handbrake cable seems to have eaten part of the bracket. Have emailed alpha omega waiting for reply
  17. I guess i have not done much miles on mine. Do they fail / squeking sound coming from them after a bit of use?
  18. Checking with alpha omega Spec from their website 100% CNC machined billet 7075-T6 aerospace alloy https://www.alphaomegaracing.com/product/evo-350mm-brembo-brakes/
  19. I have replaced everything on my r34 including suspension to Miester R, all rear subframe bushes to poly, all arms to metal adjustable and same in front. only thing I haven't touched is the front lower control arm. Should I? what improvement can i expect ? I mean the one on the link below? Car drives perfectly, it is just me thinking everything is either puly bush or hard bearing type so should also do lower control arm front but do I really need it ? https://www.japspeed.co.uk/product/suspension/adjustable-arms/nissan-200sx-s13-s14-s15-skyline-r32-r33-r34-adjustable-suspension-front-lower-control-arms/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo5u6BhDJARIsAAVoDWs5V_PauQPf0kx3zFCaA4tOC9Q7JSIsfJWma_jAPN2f1sJA686djOwaAidgEALw_wcB
  20. Found it thanks, the front tie rod end should be torqued to 40nmish
  21. Ok I thought my allow had a flat back but it does have grooves for the spacer nut/ no cutting needed bolt and nut sticking out from the spacer around 12mm and the groove is around 24mm so all good appreciate the help chaps
  22. Back in 2016 bought a set of front and rear bracket set and changed all 4 corner discs and caliper i was checking the car and seen rust like or in another word crumbled part of the bracket which came off with a air blow is this normal? This had happened in two areas and car from 2016 has mostly been in garage/ doing less than 2000 miles over past 8 years or so pic with areas highlighted in red https://ibb.co/NtmWXZt also anyone knows the torque spec for the bracket as want to retorque them, one bolt had come off half way !
  23. does anyone know tie rod torque setting and anti roll bar for r34? Is there a workshop which shows various components torque setting?
  24. Hi have purchased pair of eibach wheel spacer as I couldn’t fit set of wheels I bought for my car due to it catching caliper. I know I need to cut the bolts on my discs so they sit flush with the nut supplied but the nut doesn’t sit all the way into the groove meaning wheel would not directly fit onto the spacer rather the nuts. Any thoughts? See pic https://ibb.co/VJK5w5G
  25. Got Gktech one mate, thanks
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